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Ok folks,

Bike is up on the lift for the winter. -21C outside and snow on the ground, ride has switched over to the quad with plow blade (not as fun as it sounds, no tunes).

My engine parts that are black need cleaning. What is the best way to clean the engine transmission areas. I've tried micorfibre cloths but they just drag and spall the cloth. I have seen many bikes where the black areas of the block and transmission look much better than mine and were older.

What is the secret to keeping these areas clean and new looking? In particular what type of cleaning solution and tools are used?

Calgaryglide
 

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Ok folks,

Bike is up on the lift for the winter. -21C outside and snow on the ground, ride has switched over to the quad with plow blade (not as fun as it sounds, no tunes).

My engine parts that are black need cleaning. What is the best way to clean the engine transmission areas. I've tried micorfibre cloths but they just drag and spall the cloth. I have seen many bikes where the black areas of the block and transmission look much better than mine and were older.

What is the secret to keeping these areas clean and new looking? In particular what type of cleaning solution and tools are used?

Calgaryglide
Troy, use HD Engine Brightener on those areas: http://www.harley-davidson.com/store/engine-brightener

The stuff works like magic. You just spray it on and wipe off any excess. I think S100 makes an engine brightener as well, but I haven't tried that one. It's probably the same stuff.
 

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Be careful what you use. Many of those degreasers and cleaners, even the orange based stuff will damage aluminum and alloy metals. Read the bottles carefully.

I'm posting too to see what else is suggested. I damaged my down tubes, engine and primary cases, and wheels with a degreaser one time and the hours it took to polish them back up could have been spent riding.
 

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Be careful what you use. Many of those degreasers and cleaners, even the orange based stuff will damage aluminum and alloy metals. Read the bottles carefully.



I'm posting too to see what else is suggested. I damaged my down tubes, engine and primary cases, and wheels with a degreaser one time and the hours it took to polish them back up could have been spent riding.

Good point JohnnyC. I recently found out that Simple Green isn't safe for aluminum. I've started using Simple Green Pro HD. It's a pink/purple color. It can be had at Home Depot and the label says it's safe for aluminum.
 

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To get the case to look new again.


Clean the engine case Tooth brush works great,,, the cheap electric ones you can buy for kids work even better :D Arm & hammer spin brush is 6 bucks at walmart 1000 hr battery

Warm water and cheap dish soap will clean it right up.

Once done use your "shine product of choice"

Once you use the silly tooth brush you are going to find all kinds of other things to clean with them.. They clean the grime off that rear rim very well and with almost no effort. We bought a few for the grand kids and well I snagged a extra the wife had put away. :rolleyes:



Might even clean a ford stroker with boost ;) 29 PSI 68 or 72 MM ??
 

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Good point JohnnyC. I recently found out that Simple Green isn't safe for aluminum. I've started using Simple Green Pro HD. It's a pink/purple color. It can be had at Home Depot and the label says it's safe for aluminum.
I'll have to read my bottle of Simple Green, but this is the first I have heard about this. I've been cleaning the engine on mine since new with it and zero damage. Could be because you are cleaning the powder coated finish covering the aluminum and not necessarily direct contact with the aluminum.
 

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S100 engine brightner works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the replies.

Will use the toothbrush to clean the surfaces first. Great collection of bugs sacrificed in the front.

Then will probably try the HD Product and the S100 to compare.


Calgaryglide
 
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