Looking good Bro! What bars are those? Glad everything worked for you.
How To Fix TBW Issues After Internal Wiring
2
Ok so I personaly have experienced many hours of frustration and anger dealing with the TBW and wiring my bars internally. I have heard of several issues people have had and have experienced a few on my own. I am going to list a few common issues and how to fix them, and then I have also included a write up on how to hard wire the TBW and elminate the connectors.
Cruise not working= either one of two things. 1) Your brake switch is broken from not shimming the brake lever out. The brake switch is a little plunger between the brake lever and the master cylinder. Squeeze your brake lever and you can see it. The bike thinks the brakes are on, and therfore the cruise will not engauge. 2) TBW green connector inside the bar has a weak connection. I had this issue during the pulling of my wires though the bars. I pulled the green coonnector out just enough to make it lose connection for cruise to work properly. Either tape the green connector very tight or shrink wrap it. The other option is to hard wire... write up is at the bottom of this thread.
Brake lights stay on= The brake switch is broken.. refer to the above explanation.
Bike feels slugish/no power band/will not rev very high in the RPM range= TBW has loose connection or poor connection. Either tape the green connector very tight or shrink wrap it. Neither is guaranteed to keep it connected but it might work if there is enough room inside your bars. Or you can hard wire the TBW... keep reading for the write up.
Twist the throttle nothing happens, bike just idles= The grip is not seated completely on the internal gears located on the inside end of the grip and on the end of the TBW sensor, OR, the TBW has come apart and has no signal. Either tape the green connector, shrink wrap it, or hard wire.
Check engine light on= Run the diagnostics ( there is a thread in the trouble shooting section on how to do this) I am willing to bet one of these code has shown up:
P1510 - Throttle actuator control limited performance
P2127 - Twist grip position sensor low/open
P2138 - Twist grip position sensor correlation error
The problem to all of these is the green connector it loose and it is not getting enough (or no) signal to the TBW sensor and the TBW sensor cannot send anything to the ECU. Again either tape it, shrink wrap, or hard wire.
Now on to the write up:
After having some of these same issues on my bike after I wired my bars internally, I knew I had to find a better solution. So once again I tore the bars down and pulled out allof my hard work in pulling wires, and started over.
My bike first had several throttle issue which I originally though was a loose connection on the TBW connector in the fairing. I could move the TBW inside the fairing and make the twist grip work correctly... then I would move it some more and my bike was sluggish, and would not rev past 3100 RPM. Then the cruise quit working! So I took another forum members advice (can't remember who exactly it was but, you know who you are) and decided to hard wire the TBW and elminate the green connector.
First I took the bars off the bike. Then I took the big switch housing connector apart again, and pulled the switch housing wires out of the bars. I had to do this because the TBW was in there so tight I did not want to damage it anymore than I had to. When I pulled the TBW harness out of the bars, this is what I saw:
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Not pretty! It looks like the inside of the bars has teeth!!! Thats two layers of electrical tape that the bars chewed up from pulling them in and out of the bars. I didnt find any huge cuts or nicks to the wires but the isulation on the wires was scratched pretty bad. Check your wires very carefully to make sure nothing is cut or nicked down to bare wire. Bare wire could cause the wire to ground out on the inside of the bars and short out, or blow out your TBW sensor.
Cruise not working= either one of two things. 1) Your brake switch is broken from not shimming the brake lever out. The brake switch is a little plunger between the brake lever and the master cylinder. Squeeze your brake lever and you can see it. The bike thinks the brakes are on, and therfore the cruise will not engauge. 2) TBW green connector inside the bar has a weak connection. I had this issue during the pulling of my wires though the bars. I pulled the green coonnector out just enough to make it lose connection for cruise to work properly. Either tape the green connector very tight or shrink wrap it. The other option is to hard wire... write up is at the bottom of this thread.
Brake lights stay on= The brake switch is broken.. refer to the above explanation.
Bike feels slugish/no power band/will not rev very high in the RPM range= TBW has loose connection or poor connection. Either tape the green connector very tight or shrink wrap it. Neither is guaranteed to keep it connected but it might work if there is enough room inside your bars. Or you can hard wire the TBW... keep reading for the write up.
Twist the throttle nothing happens, bike just idles= The grip is not seated completely on the internal gears located on the inside end of the grip and on the end of the TBW sensor, OR, the TBW has come apart and has no signal. Either tape the green connector, shrink wrap it, or hard wire.
Check engine light on= Run the diagnostics ( there is a thread in the trouble shooting section on how to do this) I am willing to bet one of these code has shown up:
P1510 - Throttle actuator control limited performance
P2127 - Twist grip position sensor low/open
P2138 - Twist grip position sensor correlation error
The problem to all of these is the green connector it loose and it is not getting enough (or no) signal to the TBW sensor and the TBW sensor cannot send anything to the ECU. Again either tape it, shrink wrap, or hard wire.
Now on to the write up:
After having some of these same issues on my bike after I wired my bars internally, I knew I had to find a better solution. So once again I tore the bars down and pulled out allof my hard work in pulling wires, and started over.
My bike first had several throttle issue which I originally though was a loose connection on the TBW connector in the fairing. I could move the TBW inside the fairing and make the twist grip work correctly... then I would move it some more and my bike was sluggish, and would not rev past 3100 RPM. Then the cruise quit working! So I took another forum members advice (can't remember who exactly it was but, you know who you are) and decided to hard wire the TBW and elminate the green connector.
First I took the bars off the bike. Then I took the big switch housing connector apart again, and pulled the switch housing wires out of the bars. I had to do this because the TBW was in there so tight I did not want to damage it anymore than I had to. When I pulled the TBW harness out of the bars, this is what I saw:
Not pretty! It looks like the inside of the bars has teeth!!! Thats two layers of electrical tape that the bars chewed up from pulling them in and out of the bars. I didnt find any huge cuts or nicks to the wires but the isulation on the wires was scratched pretty bad. Check your wires very carefully to make sure nothing is cut or nicked down to bare wire. Bare wire could cause the wire to ground out on the inside of the bars and short out, or blow out your TBW sensor.
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P2127 = TGS2 low or open. I don't know if this picture helps this for the 09. I would start with what you changed out for an open wire.
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Sent from my MB860 using Motorcycle.com Free App
Attachments
Done!
So I pulled it all ack out and it was too bad. I checked it out prior to pulling it through and was good to go. On my 3rd time pulling the TBW it went smoother and it is all back together and works! Thank you all for the advice. FYI there is another tread by Ironrider that has all the error codes.
So I pulled it all ack out and it was too bad. I checked it out prior to pulling it through and was good to go. On my 3rd time pulling the TBW it went smoother and it is all back together and works! Thank you all for the advice. FYI there is another tread by Ironrider that has all the error codes.
Attachments
After five trips back to the dealer for TBW issues. I finally got up this past saturday at zero dark thirty and removed the green connector and soldered the wires per Donk's procedure. Over 150 miles later, no uncommanded full throttle. no limp home mode, no codes and no check engine light. I think the 011 RGU just might be safe to ride now. Procedure wasn't difficult to do at all. I have no plans of ever changing the bars, so hopefully I'm good to go for the next 100k miles!!! 
81 - 100 of 166 Posts
