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Damn...got bit by the dreaded green plug on my current install. Should have done this...now I can't get the wires back out. [email protected]$*ing green plug seems to be the culprit. Getting hung up on the top meathook of the Factory 47 Malo bar. :frown:
 

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Same thing here just hard wired the green plug tried clearing the codes wouldn't clear then pulled 50 amp fuse for awhile still have the same 3 codes 1510 2127 2138. Haven't rode it yet but I'm sure the cruise still doesn't work either. Any ideas other then taking to hd?
 

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2021 Ducati Multistrada V4S
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Same thing here just hard wired the green plug tried clearing the codes wouldn't clear then pulled 50 amp fuse for awhile still have the same 3 codes 1510 2127 2138. Haven't rode it yet but I'm sure the cruise still doesn't work either. Any ideas other then taking to hd?

Did you look to see if the brake lights are on all the time, even without the break pressed? Could be you broke the little brake sensor switch behind the front break lever. This makes the bike think that the brakes are on thus the cruise will not work. Fairly common issue when taking off controls.
 

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How did you get that much slack on your clutch side cable? I installed the F47 14s on my 2015 RGS. I cut the two zip ties and I have enough slack but just enough. You look like you have more than I do. Did you change your cables?
 

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Thanks for the write-up. Put my La Chopper Twin Peaks, 13 in, on and had no throttle at all , plus check engine light was on. Pulled back apart and eliminated the green connector and all is good. (ALMOST) Seem to have an issue with the radio cutting out. Also the clutch switch is not working. Need to look at it today. No pics yet.
 

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Thanks for the info.. I also rewired the throttle control and eliminated the green plug and the hand warmer wires. After getting it all soldered back up with shrink wrap and tape it was much easier pulling the wires through my bars. However, I still had a slight problem. The first time I started the bike the Check engine light was off but after zip tying the wires I started it again and the light came back on.
I ended up putting a sliver of aluminum foil in all six pin holes to tighten the connection and now everything works fine. Runs good and cruise control works again.
 

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Thanks for the info.. I also rewired the throttle control and eliminated the green plug and the hand warmer wires. After getting it all soldered back up with shrink wrap and tape it was much easier pulling the wires through my bars. However, I still had a slight problem. The first time I started the bike the Check engine light was off but after zip tying the wires I started it again and the light came back on.
I ended up putting a sliver of aluminum foil in all six pin holes to tighten the connection and now everything works fine. Runs good and cruise control works again.
Never heard that before. Won't the mating of two different metal materials start to corrode faster ?
 

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Tbw issue

Just finished installing some 12" KST Outlaws on my 2015 special. Had the "GREEN PLUG" separation issue while running my wires. I applied some dielectric grease and taped snugly. Re-ran and started the bike. Everything works except the throttle. It twists ok but no VROOM:frown:.

I was leery on the soldering because of warranty? However, I'm thinking this should/will be the route. My question, is the wiring identification colors the same for the 2015s as listed in this GREEN PLUG fix topic?
 

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Great write up. I've done apes at least 10 times but this will be the first time with TBW. You probably saved me some headache.
 

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Guys, I'm going to jump in here too for the first time after reading through the misery and busted knuckle stories you've all experienced. I've just finished the wiring project on my 16" Apes with a Magnum Shielding extension kit. It appears the following had reared its ugly little green head:
Check Engine light remains on after starting
B1006 -Accessor line over voltage /ignition line over voltage error code
B1007 - my service manual doesn't reference that code. Any ideas?
Revving the throttle only gets me about 3200 rpm max.

And one other small detail I'm not sure about: the very small Allen bolt underneath the switch housing that appears to be a friction adjustment for the grip?

So it looks like I'm going to be re-pulling wires. Hopefully just the TWB.



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Guys, I'm going to jump in here too for the first time after reading through the misery and busted knuckle stories you've all experienced. I've just finished the wiring project on my 16" Apes with a Magnum Shielding extension kit. It appears the following had reared its ugly little green head:
Check Engine light remains on after starting
B1006 -Accessor line over voltage /ignition line over voltage error code
B1007 - my service manual doesn't reference that code. Any ideas?
Revving the throttle only gets me about 3200 rpm max.

And one other small detail I'm not sure about: the very small Allen bolt underneath the switch housing that appears to be a friction adjustment for the grip?

So it looks like I'm going to be re-pulling wires. Hopefully just the TWB.



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Found your problem, it's a streetglide! ��. Make sure you pull the maxi fuse before surgery. What year bike ? Did you use the SE throttle asm., or reuse the 2 piece oem ? If you reused the oem, dollars to doughnuts your green connector isn't together all the way. It don't take much. I used electrical tape and wrapped mine before pulling it in through the bars.
Either way ,you have to take it apart to fix it. Good luck, the second time is always the charm. :)
 

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Problem fixed because of the great forum posters! Thanks guys. Hard wired the little green monster and all the issues eradicated. I also ended up snipping off the extension connectors to reduce the bulk of wires and tinned the wires together. It made the pulling through so much easier.


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Zero throttle response After successful TBW adaptation

Hello riders; I meticulously changed my bars, re-wired and have the bars & controls assembled. At first the dash lights were completely dead...discovered a burned 5 amp fuse to replace. Now everything is good EXCEPT that I have a check engine light on, and there is no throttle response (I am certain that the wiring is correct, and the throttle grip is seated fully on the gears of the TBW control). Is there a "reset" or another item that I can check?
 

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Still no throttle response

Hello riders; I meticulously changed my bars, re-wired and have the bars & controls assembled. At first the dash lights were completely dead...discovered a burned 5 amp fuse to replace. Now everything is good EXCEPT that I have a check engine light on, and there is no throttle response (I am certain that the wiring is correct, and the throttle grip is seated fully on the gears of the TBW control). Is there a "reset" or another item that I can check?
 

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Hello riders; I meticulously changed my bars, re-wired and have the bars & controls assembled. At first the dash lights were completely dead...discovered a burned 5 amp fuse to replace. Now everything is good EXCEPT that I have a check engine light on, and there is no throttle response (I am certain that the wiring is correct, and the throttle grip is seated fully on the gears of the TBW control). Is there a "reset" or another item that I can check?
Mateo, helped a buddy install meat hanger apes on his Road Glide after I did mine. He started the job before I arrived and thought he had it pretty well buttoned up when I got there. We had the exact same issue on his bike - same exact symptoms as yours.

The blown fuse indicates a short in the wiring. On his installation we found the following;

One wire dislodged from the green TBW connector not making contact between the male and female plugs inside the connector.
When re-assembling the switch housings he pinched one of the wires between the housing clamps and the handlebar.

We were able to fix both issues, but I told him that he would be better off to just buy the extended wiring kit from NAMZ and get rid of all those dang connectors with a solid run of properly soldered and shrink tubed wiring. Thankfully he decided to go that route. So instead of permanently buttoning everything back up he went up to one of our local Indies and ordered the wire extension kit.

Once the wiring extension kit arrived, Mike got right on it and asked me over to help him adjust his bar position. Long story short, everything was in working order after that. Having done three bar changes now on 2015 Road Glides, I can say without hesitation that the wiring extension modification is the way to go if you value your time and don't want the frustration of dealing with the same issues you are seeing.

Just my two cents worth.

P.S. Other than resetting the error codes, there isn't any other "hard reset" function available that I'm aware of. I used my FP3 to clear his codes.
 

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Thanks Donk for this writeup....several years later now and this has helped me a great deal.

I put on 14 inch bars, first time I pulled the tbw thru, the green connector came apart, taped very well and repulled, put everything on the bike..no throttle and following codes:
p1512 - forced idle mode
p2122 tgs1 low/open
p2127 tgs2 low/open
p2128 tgs correlation error

0031 02 sensenor open/low...but that's unrelated.

Only thing that might help that I tired, is I de-pinned the green connector, plug each wire individually and then soldered/shrink wrapped...that way you won't lose any lenght.

Also, I completely removed teh b/w heated grip wires/connectors.
 
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