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So I put 14" apes on this weekend. First issue was there was no throttle when twisting but I found a black wire that came out of the connector and fixed that. But now I have no cruise control, and my engine light is on. When I go through the diagnostic for the cruise everything turns green indicating it is working correctly. The codes are P1510 and P2138 with a part # of 001349-01. Someone told me to check continuity of the wiring but how do you do that if you don't have access to both ends of the wire?
 

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So I put 14" apes on this weekend. First issue was there was no throttle when twisting but I found a black wire that came out of the connector and fixed that. But now I have no cruise control, and my engine light is on. When I go through the diagnostic for the cruise everything turns green indicating it is working correctly. The codes are P1510 and P2138 with a part # of 001349-01. Someone told me to check continuity of the wiring but how do you do that if you don't have access to both ends of the wire?
Help!!
 

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JB, since the cruise control function is operated by the left hand control switches that's where you start. Any way you look at this it's going to require some work.

1. Pull the 50A main fuse under the left side cover
2. Remove the instrument nacelle
3. Unplug the left hand harness from the plug inside the instrument console
4. Remove the left side switch housing
5. Unplug the small white plug from the switches
6. Check the continuity of all the wires from the switches to the instrument console
7. If all the wires show continuity you'll need to check if one of the wires has been damaged and is grounding out
8. You can use either end of the harness for this test, place one lead of your meter into each wire terminal and place the other lead of your meter onto a bare metal service (clamp area of the bars is ideal)
9. Check to see if you are grounding out between the wire and the bars

My guess is that you've either stripped a wire bare and it's grounding out somewhere, or alternatively you've pinched a wire causing a short.

If you can't seem to find the issue after this trouble shooting, reply back.

As for the logged DTCs; both P1510 and P2138 should be historical based on the problem you had with the TBW sensor wires.
 

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This thread actually helped me quite a bit. So I thought I'd put a little about the issues I had after removing that green connector. Turns out that green connector wasn't my issue but I'm glad it's gone now. I read the code and zeroed in on 3 wires in the molex 6 pin connector behind the instrument cluster. Found a loose connector. Each female end of those pins has a small pressure or pinch connection. With the white cap pulled off to make depinning easier I connected it to the male end and noticed some wiggle in it. Used a safety pin, paper clip, small screwdriver and finished with a pick. Basically anything you use to push or pry that downward facing pressure connecting down. In the end the pick was able to get into the side of the square female connection, small slot on the side, push it down so it moves downward and pinches the male pin when in. Do yourself a favour and check it on the male pin.

Like someone else suggested a little dielectric grea inside the female connector and it solved my issue.

Not surr if this helps someone else but it allows you to keep the molex connection and worth checking if your having issues.

The diagram from the service manual helps zero in on what circuit is having issues if you can get your hand on it.

This one is from a 2015 touring model.

Hope it helps.

Schematic Font Parallel Engineering Pattern
 
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