I got the woods tw6 cam installed in my 2010fltx. The Dyno results were 80/91 all charts I've looked at suggest I'm 10 hp/tq low. Has rhinehart 2n1. Exhaust .any suggestion on what to check is appreciated afr is 12.8-13.2 thanks duane5157
Hp/TA appear low
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http://www.roadglide.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=183169&stc=1&d=1426457449
Here is the dyno sheet
Here is the dyno sheet
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TQ comes on late and rough it seems. Can't comment on the numbers since its not a 103
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830 Posts
Just guessing, but I think you got a bad tune. Tq comes on late, hp curve runs wrong way...etc. Even if it turns out to be mechanical (like a bad fuel pump) the tuner is supposed to diagnose such things, so bad tune.
This is why I run a Thundermax, I have never had a dyno on this bike, therefore I have never had a bad dyno tune.....
This is why I run a Thundermax, I have never had a dyno on this bike, therefore I have never had a bad dyno tune.....
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If you have no idea what you are talking about, maybe you should not talk about it.
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Ed's as good as they get. When you get a quality dyno tune from a competent tuner there is no guess work. People that run auto tune tuners instead of getting a good dyno tune seem for the most part to be satisfied. You don't miss what you've never had.If you have no idea what you are talking about, maybe you should not talk about it.
The PC Vision is a quality tuner and the bike was run on a dyno,hence the dyno sheet also you can see the correction to the afr to smooth out the pull. The question still remains, do you think this cam needs more compression or does the hp and torque look close to what it should be based off of other dyno sheets with that cam. Duane5157
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Nothing wrong with Powervision tuner. When I mentioned competent tuner I was referring to the guy tuning the bike on the dyno. You ended up at 85/91, if this is a 96" motor I don't think you're that far off. Most 103's with cams end up in the 90's hp wise and 100 to 110 tq with 7 more cubes. I'm not an expert on cams by any means but if I remember correctly I think those two cams like around 10/1 to shine. Check with Bob Wood on what the best comp is for those cams or even Scott from Hillside here on the forum. He does lots of Wood cams. Hope this helps.
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I think I've discovered your problem.
I read it as he used his tuner to install a canned map and did a dyno run at the dealer to see what the effects were, then asked questions about it.If you have no idea what you are talking about, maybe you should not talk about it.
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But you said this;
"He has a PC Vision tuner, whatever that is. This is why I went with a quality dyno tune. No guessing."
I don't see any questions, did I miss something?
Are you saying that you couldn't figure out what he meant?
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Hands up people, this is a hijack!
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Duane,
A Wide Open Throttle (WOT) also known as a Sweep Pull is the easiest item to tune. If the tuner (guy tuning) the bike doesn't have a flat line on a WOT pull then they have no business tuning your bike. You go from the low end being rich below 13:1 then at 4k rpm where you run on the lean side then back down. If it were my bike I would be looking to get the lines squared away, validate what was done with timing and then look to make changes if you are still not satisfied. Doing so before that is putting the cart in front of the horse.
You may also want to know if the bike / combination likes it on the leaner side in some cases they do in others the typical tune works 13 to 1 WOT pull 100 kPa where it may tail off at the end a little richer 12.8 or 12.5 and note where your timing is probably something like 24 to 30 degrees. It is a simple process as long as you are not over heating the tire or the motor. Doing to many pulls to fast without allowing the motor or tire to cool may skew your numbers. In doing so it may not give an accurate picture as the tire may get to hot on the drum and you could see lower number, but in reality could be the better timing/setup and when cool deliver a higher number. I have seen this exact thing one run be hot and make say 100 hp and then when cool make 109. I mention this because a tuner who lets you go with what he gave you would cause me to be very skeptical on their ability.
A Wide Open Throttle (WOT) also known as a Sweep Pull is the easiest item to tune. If the tuner (guy tuning) the bike doesn't have a flat line on a WOT pull then they have no business tuning your bike. You go from the low end being rich below 13:1 then at 4k rpm where you run on the lean side then back down. If it were my bike I would be looking to get the lines squared away, validate what was done with timing and then look to make changes if you are still not satisfied. Doing so before that is putting the cart in front of the horse.
You may also want to know if the bike / combination likes it on the leaner side in some cases they do in others the typical tune works 13 to 1 WOT pull 100 kPa where it may tail off at the end a little richer 12.8 or 12.5 and note where your timing is probably something like 24 to 30 degrees. It is a simple process as long as you are not over heating the tire or the motor. Doing to many pulls to fast without allowing the motor or tire to cool may skew your numbers. In doing so it may not give an accurate picture as the tire may get to hot on the drum and you could see lower number, but in reality could be the better timing/setup and when cool deliver a higher number. I have seen this exact thing one run be hot and make say 100 hp and then when cool make 109. I mention this because a tuner who lets you go with what he gave you would cause me to be very skeptical on their ability.
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