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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:confused: I was installing 11" Santee mini apes and was not going to run the wires internally until winter, WRONG. I will be running them inside now because the holes to run them internally don't leave enough room to run them on the outside like the dimples on the stock bars do. Not enough time today, looks like I'll be down for a while. :( Ideas anyone?
 

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:confused: I was installing 11" Santee mini apes and was not going to run the wires internally until winter, WRONG. I will be running them inside now because the holes to run them internally don't leave enough room to them on the outside like the dimples on the stock bars do. Not enough time today, looks like I'll be down for a while. :( Ideas anyone?
I had the exact same issue with my Wild Ones Outlawz. It took (first time I ever changed bars) between 8 to 10 hours to get it done....
 

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my Khrome Werks 2+2 sweepers are supposed to be internal , but no way all them wires is going in the bars , no dimples like the other bars , so I just left em out and werks fine

JtB
 

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my Khrome Werks 2+2 sweepers are supposed to be internal , but no way all them wires is going in the bars , no dimples like the other bars , so I just left em out and werks fine

JtB
LOL, I can relate to that. When I had KW+2 bars on the bike, I got all the left side wires in just fine. But, when I started in on the right it was a nightmare. I ended up with the left side internal and the right outside. I had a ride the next morning and finally had enough, just put the bike back together that way.

When I swapped those out for the WO518 bars, no option but do the internal wiring. It was way easier.
 

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I ran mine internal the first time and had the green clip separate partially on me so had to do it a second time. The second time I ran the throttle wires internal and the control wires external.

What I did was drill a hole in the bottom of the bar just beyond the switch housing and feed the control wires thru it and follow the profile of the bars into the fairing. I used a leather crash bar cover to keep the wires against the bars since the indents that were on the stock bars did not exist on the aftermarket bars. I used a second leather wrap on the left side for symmetry. This looks good if you have black bars. If you have chrome bars look for a holder in Dennis Kirk that will match the diameter of you bars.

The leather crash bar covers can be purchased from Capt-itch.com. They have some cool leather products.
 

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I ran mine internal the first time and had the green clip separate partially on me so had to do it a second time. The second time I ran the throttle wires internal and the control wires external.

What I did was drill a hole in the bottom of the bar just beyond the switch housing and feed the control wires thru it and follow the profile of the bars into the fairing. I used a leather crash bar cover to keep the wires against the bars since the indents that were on the stock bars did not exist on the aftermarket bars. I used a second leather wrap on the left side for symmetry. This looks good if you have black bars. If you have chrome bars look for a holder in Dennis Kirk that will match the diameter of you bars.

The leather crash bar covers can be purchased from Capt-itch.com. They have some cool leather products.
Thats a nice way to go about it. When you drill your hole make it the same size as the wire opening that came with the bars and after its drilled out take a right angle cut off tool and cut a channel between your drill hole and the one that came with the bars. That way you will not have to undo the plug end of the wires. just lay them in the channel. Then take a rubber gromet and cut it in half and J-B weld it to the inside edge of your drill hole.
 

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Thats a nice way to go about it. When you drill your hole make it the same size as the wire opening that came with the bars and after its drilled out take a right angle cut off tool and cut a channel between your drill hole and the one that came with the bars. That way you will not have to undo the plug end of the wires. just lay them in the channel. Then take a rubber gromet and cut it in half and J-B weld it to the inside edge of your drill hole.
That thought crossed my mind when I did mine, but I was concerned about weakening the bars. I just fed the wires in then back out the hole I drilled. It really wasn't that hard to do. I also filed the edges of the hole real well to take out any sharpness and used a Q-tip to add some paint to the bare metal.
 

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:confused: I was installing 11" Santee mini apes and was not going to run the wires internally until winter, WRONG. I will be running them inside now because the holes to run them internally don't leave enough room to run them on the outside like the dimples on the stock bars do. Not enough time today, looks like I'll be down for a while. :( Ideas anyone?
Just go for it and use the bars as they were designed. No internal wiring job is exactly painless on these bikes but at least you've bars with smooth bends that will be far easier to wire compared to some of the others. There are several good how-to threads in this section. Just make sure to either hard wire the TBW wires to eliminate the green connector, or do as I did and extend the wires so the green plug lives in the fairing. It's a little daunting the first time and I was in no hurry but I figure the next time it'd only take me about 4 - 5 hours.
 

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Just use the how to's and get them internally wired...you will not regret it!!!! looks so much better. Get rid of the green connector too...it's an easy soldering job. So what if it takes some time.... my outlawz were 8 hrs . one day and a few the next because i got 2 wires reversed in the plug.... I would do it all again tomorrow they are so nice!!!!!!
 

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Replace connectors

After Christmas I installed 12" Outlaws on my '09 FLTRSE3. The installation was made much easier by using a clutch cable (purchased at NAPA) to pull the wires after first cutting off the Molex pins. There are 12 wires in the left handle bar and 18 in the right if you use the heated grip wires. Then I installed new Deutsch connectors and pins. Saved hours attempting to thread the original wires with Molex pins, which would bend. The Outlaws are basically 1' bars with a 1/4" sleeve. I have friends who have spent over 7 hours just attempting to tread original wires. Now I wish I had gone to 14" Outlaws, but that would have required new hydralic clutch and brake lines.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well guys, its not that I didn't want to, or was nervous about doing it, I was just going to wait until I had more time to do it, like winter. I've done internal wiring on other bikes of mine and buddies bikes, none with this many wires or TBW though. I'll maybe get 1-1.5 hours a day with my work schedule and just wasn't planning on having the bike down for a week or more. Thanks for the votes of confidence, and yes, without this great forum and Donk's pics, I would have been confused on the dis and re assembly of the connectors. Time to get to it, pics when I finish. 'Foot :cool:
 
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