Thank you. This is helpful. So if I’ve done my homework properly, the Sony head unit came with the plug and play wiring kit to retain handlebar controls. The wiring kits you reference will take care of the wiring from head unit to amp, amp to speakers, and amp to battery. Is that correct?
I’ve watched a few videos now. Everything looks fairly straight forward. All of the videos I’ve watched though show connecting an amp to the factory head unit vs an aftermarket. Since I’m connecting to an aftermarket head unit, I’m thinking I don’t need any Harley specific wiring harness. Just a harness long enough to run power from the battery to the amp. Other than that I think I have everything I need.
Thanks. I really like the KnuKoncepts wiring kit. The ground cable is only 3’ though. Is that enough to make it to the battery? Thinking I’ll need to get a longer cable.
Thanks. I did purchase it through them. I’m comfortable with that installation, just want to make sure I’ve got a plan for the amp and speakers.
The install is pretty straight forward. Nothing special about hooking up to the sony. Just rca's out to the amp, run new speaker wire from amp to speakers. I have done my install but have not finished setting up the amp. Waiting for the weather to get out of -30C before I venture back out to the garage lol.
3' i dont think will be long enough. Straight line from the battery to the steering neck is about that length. You'll have to add a couple feet for wire routing and inside the fairing routing.
Once you swap the head unit and figure out where you'll be mounting the amp its pretty straight forward. Like Ike said it's just a set of rca cable's from the radio to the amp then speaker wire from amp to speakers. Adjusting the amp setting can be a little tricky. If you use the EQ settings like bass boost or whatever on the radio it'sadvisable to adjust those as best as possible first before you start messing with the gains on the amp as the EQ setting can override the amp loudness which will start distorting the speakers. There's a bunch of videos on YouTube that can help with that
This is exactly what I’m doing. I have this kit, the stinger amp and the MMATS, all waiting to go in. I’m going to run speaker wires for the TP while I’m running the power. I have a waterproof connector to make the TP destabilize easy.
Unless you're dead set on a true plug and play kit you can go to your local electronics store that sells and installs car audio to buy an amp install kit. A brand called "Monster Cable" is good stuff and has everything you'll need and can be bought just about anywhere mobile audio is sold. You will be much better off using a good quality RCA cable. I dont think you'll have a problem with the kits you linked either as long as you have enough wire for the job
You don't need to take the the ground all the way to the battery, ANY frame ground will work. Best to run the positive wire to the battery though. Just before the battery there should be a frame ground stud you should use and it is best to go to the frame for the ground instead of the battery anyways. 3 feet should reach the battery if to pull the fuel tank and run the wire down the wire tray under the tank.
While this can be true, but on bikes grounding to frames are bad practice. Vibration through the frame can be a killer. Most reprievable motorcycle audio installers run to the battery not the frame for grounds.
I've never had any problems with a frame ground, just as long as you make sure the connection is clean and the nut is tightened up properly. I've always grounded my amp and heated riding gear to the frame.
