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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This past weekend I installed the Heritage style bars for touring bikes on my bike. I did not attempt to run the wires (except the TGS cable) inside the bars. Here's some advice for those interested in doing the same:

- Read the posts in this forum. I got a lot of good information here.
- You must have a service manual.
- In addition to the manual and bars, purchase a stock left grip in case you can't get the old one off intact. You'll need zip ties, thread locker, string, fishing sinker, and grip glue as well.
- Take your time. I did this on an evening and the next day.
- Read through the manual and mark the pages you'll need: Remove fairing, remove instrument cluster, remove controls, remove lock/switch knob, remove handlebar. I did this on Friday evening and visualized what I was going to have to do. Sleep on it and do the work the next day.
- Cover everything with a towel, pads, etc. Put a blanket on the floor for the fairing and other parts.
- Have a rag ready to catch any brake fluid that may escape through the vent.
- Get a piece of 5/32" cardboard to insert in the brake handle _before_ loosening the brake assembly.
- Use the string to tie off the controls as you remove them. You'll need a piece to pull the Throttle Grip Sensor (TGS) cable back through the new handlebar.
- Yes, you have to take the fairing off to disconnect the TGS cable. PITA. A connector should have been put in the space under the instrument cluster.
- I took out the 4 screws (2 each side) that hold the plastic shell for the instruments and switches to the forks.
- One tip I got from the forum was to clip the tie wrap that holds the brake lines to the frame. I re-tied the lower line to the anchor bracket and tied the upper line to the lower a few inches back. (It will make sense when you see it.)
- Tie the small fishing sinker to a piece of string to make it easier to feed string down the bar to be able to pull the TGS cable back up the bar past the indent.
- If the book says, "be careful," be gentle.

Any time you change one of the ergonomic factors, it seems like a new bike. take a practice ride to get used to the new response. Your arms will be telling your brain that things aren't right. the first thing I experienced was a change in throttle position as I went over bumps and patches in the road. The bounce was transmitted to my arm and the throttle.

I'm probably going to adjust the bars to see how I like them in different positions. I haven't quite got them dialed in.

HTH
 

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Thanks for the info. Was wondering where that tcs wire ran to. Guess I better re plan my attack.
 

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1 question? Couild you go thru the headlight insead of taking off the fairing? If so how do your get the black plastic trim pc off with out breaking the tabs?
 

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Great tips where's the pics

Great tips, and much appreciated, but what we really want is some pics of the bike with upgraded bars... :cool:
 

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Great tips wheres the pics

Thanks for the write up--where's the pics. We would like to see pictures of the new bars... :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1 question? Couild you go thru the headlight insead of taking off the fairing? If so how do your get the black plastic trim pc off with out breaking the tabs?
The short answer is, no. I think it would be far more difficult to accomplish the task if you leave the fairing on.

I ripped the tab on the black plastic trim piece the second time I took off the fairing. Replacement is about $8.00 and the part wasn't stocked by my dealer. Since then I've learned to take off the fairing leaving the trim in place. I remove the trim from behind the removed fairing by using a putty knife to unlock the tabs. After that, I remove the headlamp assembly so I can put the fairing back on more easily.

Here's a longer answer to why I think it is not possible to disconnect the TGS wiring without removing the fairing.

If you are familiar with the way the fairing is supported behind the headlamps, this will make sense. If not, you have to imagine it.

The front of the fairing is supported by two metal "hooks." The flat plasitc behind the headlamp assembly fits into the hooks. It's a pressure fit and I usually have to bump the fairing to get it to go back and down into the hooks.

The metal bracket that forms the hooks that support the fairing has two indentations behind the front indentation that is the "hook." The cable that the TGS cable plugs into is supported by the indentation immediately behind the "hook." So you have to be able to get at the cables and connectors in order to disconnect and reconnect the TGS cable. After you've done it once you might be able to do it without removing the fairing, but you would have to remove the black trim piece and the headlamp assembly in order to get access to the connector. You can get the trim piece off if you are very careful, but I'm not sure you could squeeze the 3 fasteners that hold the headlamp assembly to the fairing.

Another reason to take off the fairing is to be able to guide the cable through the nest of other cables as you remove and reinstall it.

I told you it would be a long answer. Let me know if it is understandable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the write up--where's the pics. We would like to see pictures of the new bars... :cool:
I haven't had the bike out since doing the mod. Had a little surgery. I'll take pictures this weekend.
 

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When I did mine I didn't have to take off the ignition lock assembly. I loosened the 4 bolts on the fork legs and was able to shift the plastic side to side to get the lower 2 bolts out. Didn't need that new longer TGS sensor that they try to sell you for 95 with tax. The stock one worked fine. The only trouble I seem to have is 1) the wiring forthe left side switches seems a bit tight. And 2) the damn brake switch plunger doesn't contact the lever anymore to hut the brake lights off. Used felt on the lever for an easy quick fix, but that'll eventually come off. Just my experience. Put the same grips I had on my Heritage on this too. Feels like the same bike, well sorta. There's no bike like the Road Glide. Hands down
 

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install

instead of using fishing line and a sinker,all you have to do is place string in the hole of the bars.then use the air hose and blow the string out the other end.i've been doing this for years and it works great!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, Here are some pictures

Left side view. The bars are tilted back from the line of the forks. After this picture I tilted them back a little more.


Right side view.


Right side with the pocket open


Head on view.
 

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Sorry to sound like a dope, but there's a lot of threads about "heritage" bars. Are we talking the Harley Heritage bars? Or "heritage style" bars (like the Flandars Heritage bars for example which measure VERY different to the harleys) ??
 

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Sorry to sound like a dope, but there's a lot of threads about "heritage" bars. Are we talking the Harley Heritage bars? Or "heritage style" bars (like the Flandars Heritage bars for example which measure VERY different to the harleys) ??
Harley's version of heritage bars
 

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That's where I really get confused - it seems that many folks put them on because the reach is too far, but the HD pop window with the heritage dimensions says it's only a 5" pullback (and the roadglide bars is 6 1/4). So how can this be more comfortable? Seems like the height is greater also - is that part of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Before H-D switched to throttle-by-wire, a lot of people put the bars from the Heritage Softail Classic (56623-99) on their touring bikes. The new throttle sensor, installed in the right end of the bar on touring bikes forced a change to the bars. There are three notches in the end of the bar (to keep the sensor from rotating) and an opening in the middle of the bar for the wires of the sensor.

Because of the popularity of the Heritage bars, Harley introduced a bar for touring bikes with identical dimensions as the Heritage bar and with the notches and wire opening. They named the bar, "Heritage Style Handlebar" (56902-08 Chrome) and (55864-09 satin black).

The advantages of th ebar are - it doesn't require new cables/wires and it is taller, allowing it to be tilted back, closer the the rider.
 

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The other thing about pull back is it's straight geometry. As you grab the oem bars some people reach out and down. When you have higher bars you are reaching more straight out verse down. The down angle and length is longer than the reach straight out. That why you see apes with less pull back. At least that's what I think.:)
 

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Thanks for the info. Was wondering where that tcs wire ran to. Guess I better re plan my attack.
Just put WO518 on my 2010 RG. I read somewhere there are connectors for the TBW in the bars so you do not have to remove the pins. Didn't understand, but sure enough, if you disconnect the plug in the fairing, loosen it from all the other wires, you can pull the throttle control out of the bars enough to access two small plugs, disconnect them and pull the wire out with the main plug still on. Just put it back in reverse.
 

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I thought I wanted HD Heritage bars till I read this thread. What I want is a bar that feels the same as the bars on my 07 Electra Glide. Can anyone help with that? The chart in the 2011 acc cat is just confusing me.
 
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