Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It took me about 3.5 hours to get these bars installed mainly due to a couple things that I didn't take into consideration. All in all it was great especially considering this is the first time I've had the nose off the bike. Below are a couple things of note I discovered on my journey.

1. A glued on aftermarket grip is definitely worth saving but there'll be a few words of uneducated wisdom in the process of removing it.

2. Getting the fairing on the hooks is easy but getting the outer tabs to line up was more difficult. I actually couldn't believe how easy it was to put on the hooks. I did it 4 times just to be sure that was actually how it fit. I would hope that applying downward pressure to the top of the fairing and it not moving would signify it's on the hooks.

3. My fairing rubs in 4 places, none of which are the radio bracket. There's a spot on the L and R side where it rubs against the storage compartments in the fairing and it rubs where it rests on two little things that stick out from the top of the inner fairing...I'll post pictures later.

4. Apparently the installers at the factory have as difficult a time with well nuts as anyone else since I found an extra one laying around in the fairing.

5. I had the wife present to take the fairing off but put it on by myself.

6. Even though the factory TBW wire is long enough, you almost have to pull it all the way back through the neck to get enough length to get it out the other end of the handle bar to plug it into the TBW sensor (or whatever your grip attaches to is called).

7. I tied a shoe lace to the TBW on the front so I could easily get it back to the front and I tied another shoe lace to thread it through the new bars.

8. There is a specific order that HD recommends that you tighten the fairing screws when you re-install...pay attention.

Most importantly, the bars keep your hands in the pocket as others have stated, they provide a much more comfortable riding position (hope to experience it when I leave for work in 8 hours) and they look great without spending too much. I'm really glad I went ahead and did this mod. Pics to come later.

Here's where the fairing is rubbing:






Pics of bars on the bike on page 3...can't have more than 4 pics per post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
My experience was nearly identical
My results and comfort level was the same
I put on aileron hd grips as I have fought with the glued on grips before, along with the fact I wanted to upgrade anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
Sounds cool.
Let us know how you like them after you have ridden a few miles.
On my FLTRU the handle bar position has me leaning forward slightly. No too sure I am going to be comfortable with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
Thanks for the report. I'll be doing the same soon so any pics are greatly appreciated.

Nice score on the extra well nut - you saved $1.20! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Great job. Once you get past BINGO it really is a pretty easy job. I started it a week after I got bike, because the hand position was killing my back, and chickened out a few steps in, putting it all back together.

Then one saturday I decided to spend all day working on bike, FIGHTING WITH OL LADY. once I got really started things just started clicking.

You're gonna really love the new position
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
I think the time spent putting the new bars on is not too bad. Using an air ratchet to loosen the Nacelle bolts on the side of the fork legs would be handy. A bit tight for a regular ratchet.
Patience is the key to the whole mod, along with keeping the parts organzied that come off.

Question however, just how do you find the tabs that need depressed to get the headlight trim loose? I read about the butter knife trick, whick should work, finding the tabs seems tough, anyone able to illustrate where to depress to get this out, would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
I use a small thin blade screwdriver with blue painter's tape on the end. The tabs are about 1" from the top edge. When you put the blade in, anywhere, that should open up the bubble enough for you to see the tabs. Also, I use a 3/8" ratchet and a T40 socket - plenty of room to get the Nacelle 4 screws out. Also note that I upgraded my seakers to the J&M 7.25 speakers. Easy job. :D
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Just changed mine out on Wednesday - had no problem with the TBW. Just pulled the controller with the wire out, disconnected the green plug feed the whole thing through the bar and mounted the bar on the bike.
I believe the reason why I had issue w/ the TBW cable is I never fully pulled it out of the bike...only far enough to feed it through to connect to sensor and put back in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,016 Posts
2. Getting the fairing on the hooks is easy but getting the outer tabs to line up was more difficult. I actually couldn't believe how easy it was to put on the hooks. I did it 4 times just to be sure that was actually how it fit. I would hope that applying downward pressure to the top of the fairing and it not moving would signify it's on the hooks.

yes that would do it. I never had an issue with mine either on the hooks or on the sides. I slipped right in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
yes that would do it. I never had an issue with mine either on the hooks or on the sides. I slipped right in place.
Having this good experience w/ removing and installing the fairing certainly makes me less apprehensive about doing other things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
they provide a much more comfortable riding position
It should be noted that the Heritage bars have the exact same wrist angle as the stock bars. Don't buy these if you are looking for a more comfortable wrist angle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
It should be noted that the Heritage bars have the exact same wrist angle as the stock bars. Don't buy these if you are looking for a more comfortable wrist angle.
They do have more pullback though. You can see it in Joke's photo and especially in harvesthunt's great comparison pics in his install thread.

http://www.roadglide.org/showthread.php?t=3970
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It should be noted that the Heritage bars have the exact same wrist angle as the stock bars. Don't buy these if you are looking for a more comfortable wrist angle.
I would agree and the angle seems to be more pronounced. I put about 160 miles on the bike yesterday and the bars are a huge improvement over stock. With my hands up higher and closer, it's definitely more comfortable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
Charlie -

Check out this video by Chainsaw at about the 2:00 minute mark. It's a video on installing windshields but after a couple of minutes, he quickly removes the headlight bezel. Should give you an idea where the tabs are.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkCiAGxGVCA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
I guess I am a visual man. I watched chainsaw pop that thing off, went right out and popped mine off. I think you could change the bars without pulling the fairing by removing the right headlight, reaching in and disconnecting the tbw. Of course that would not be as easy for someone gonna put the wires in the bars.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top