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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm installing 12 inch wild 1 outlawz on my 13 ultra tomorrow. Does anyone have any last minute tips or advice? The biggest thing I'm dreading is pulling the pins out of the molex connectors
 

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I would eliminate the green plug in the TBW, it will save you frustrations later on, just solder the wires together and heat shrink each one. Save the beer drinking until the job is done, take your time, make good drawings of the plugs, and even take pictures so you get all the wires in the correct locations. When I pulled my wires, I got thin braided cable like on a garage door, and used that to run through my bars, to pull the wires, it is thin, flexible, and strong. Good Luck
 

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I would eliminate the green plug in the TBW, it will save you frustrations later on, just solder the wires together and heat shrink each one. Save the beer drinking until the job is done, take your time, make good drawings of the plugs, and even take pictures so you get all the wires in the correct locations. When I pulled my wires, I got thin braided cable like on a garage door, and used that to run through my bars, to pull the wires, it is thin, flexible, and strong. Good Luck
Complete +1 on the green plug!!! Make sure you stagger the splices. Additionally, I split the wires into 2 bundles on each side and shrink tubed each one. Wire lube and a 30" cable tie worked great...nice thing is being able to pre-bend the tie to make the 90s.
 

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Take your time and don't rush it. Make sure you have all the correct parts before you tear apart. So if yu do need to get the correct parts, your not down a bike. (Don't ask me how I know!!!)
I had problems with crimping the new pins on the wires. So I cut the wires and extended them and used the factory pins. Careful with brake fluid as well. That shit eats and get in everything. It's like dog crap and tar. You look at it and, turn around, and it's everywhere!!

Need any help or explainations, we're all here for help. Ytube your friend too.
 

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I just wanna stress again how important very detailed drawing are. DONT SKIP THEM!

Also, I laid out blue shop towels and as I took parts off, I laid them out on the towels on a bench, circled them, and labeled what they were with a pen.

* Buy 4 times more electric tape then you think you need. Cut off the factory sheath stuff carefully, and wrap them tight as possible with electric tape. Not only does it make the wire bundles tighter and smaller, it protects the wires. You'll be amazed at the sharp edges in the bars.

* Have a radio on, it will help keep you sane.

* Don't set a time limit for yourself.

* I used Vaseline for lube. Wear gloves with a good grip when pulling. Vaseline is slippery!



(Back to point #1, if I hadn't taken pics of every single thing, and made very precise drawings of the pins, my bike would still not be back together!)

* Use a paperclip to pull the pins from the connector. Sounds dumb, but works.

* Read and re read Donks bar swap thread.

* Learn from our mistakes and don't try to do it faster. Mine took 37.5 hours of hands on time due to other problems found in there.

* Wrap the bars prior to pulling wires or you will scratch them somehow. Ask me how I know.

* Don't under-estimate the difficulty of getting that stooooopid ignition back in. Use 1/4" copper pipe flattened out to make an alignment tool for the tumblers, or atleast a stout flathead screw driver. There's vids on how to make the tool on youtube.
 

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If you hadn't already planned on it, now is the time to eliminate the rubber bushings and replace with the sturdier polyurethane bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Want to thank everyone for the tips. I've got the job about 75% done. I did do everything you all suggested. I did go with the cvo TBW. I just have to mount the controls and levers. I do have one more question, which way did you guys find the best to reroute the clutch cable?
 

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Want to thank everyone for the tips. I've got the job about 75% done. I did do everything you all suggested. I did go with the cvo TBW. I just have to mount the controls and levers. I do have one more question, which way did you guys find the best to reroute the clutch cable?
Take it out of the little circle clip it was in. Cut the zip tie down at the bottom near the frame. Run it up on the other side of gauge housing, like behind it and to the left. It will run on the tank side of the support bracket. I have the same bars. I left the little plastic circle there and run my phones aux cable through it.



Be certain to test all lights, turn signals, horn, radio controls, etc before putting the fairing back on. If you put any pins in the wrong place, you want to catch it right away. Also, don't overtightened the fairing screws, real easy to do.



Post pics.
 

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depends on how much length you added or lost. trial and error moving bars from stop to stop looking for pinch zone. If you go in front of gauge covers on front of bars wrap the cable sheath, it will start cutting. I know better now......
 

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depends on how much length you added or lost. trial and error moving bars from stop to stop looking for pinch zone. If you go in front of gauge covers on front of bars wrap the cable sheath, it will start cutting. I know better now......
Mine does have a couple pinch marks from getting pushed against the fork. I wrapped that spot in electrics tape to help it out.
 
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