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Discussion Starter #1
Just a quick question for those who have changed bars(some several times), is it better to do the exchange on a lift or down on the floor so you can move the front wheel from side to side. I plan on doing the swap out this weekend and your help and or advice would be appreciated....
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Depends on the bars. If they are higher or pulled back a couple of inches then a lift would be helpful because you'll be changing the brake lines and the clutch cable and the hand grips etc: etc:. Have fun , and make sure you have all the misc. parts on hand before you start or you'll be making a half dozen trips back and forth to the dealer.Sounds worse than it is and it's one of the best things to do for riding comfort.
 

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Just a quick question for those who have changed bars(some several times), is it better to do the exchange on a lift or down on the floor so you can move the front wheel from side to side. I plan on doing the swap out this weekend and your help and or advice would be appreciated....
Thanks
2
I used the lift some of the time and other times the bike was on the floor. Ya see, why bend over when you can bring the bike up to you . LOL. You don't really need a lift though.
Also make sure you look at the post with step by step and pictures. I wist I would have seen the post before I did my job. Would have gone much faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I wasn't to clear, I don't want to tie it down on the lift have the front wheel in the chock and then need to turn it to access something (does this make sense)? Plus someone mentioned additional parts? I plan on re-using everything from the original bars, or am I missing something there also. I read everyones post and look at the one Donk submitted, I'm not afraid to tackle the job but I want to be prepared for everything I might encounter......
Thanks for all the help & advice.....
 

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I guess I wasn't to clear, I don't want to tie it down on the lift have the front wheel in the chock and then need to turn it to access something (does this make sense)? Plus someone mentioned additional parts? I plan on re-using everything from the original bars, or am I missing something there also. I read everyones post and look at the one Donk submitted, I'm not afraid to tackle the job but I want to be prepared for everything I might encounter......
Thanks for all the help & advice.....
You want to be able to turn the wheel/ Handle bars to access the inner torx screws that secures the Speedo/Tach. cover, and turn signals.also move wires around.
I replaced original bars with Heritage bars and no extra parts needed.
 

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i like having the bike level but on the floor. I use my floor jack to keep the bike level but it allows me to turn the bars side to side.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You want to be able to turn the wheel/ Handle bars to access the inner torx screws that secures the Speedo/Tach. cover, and turn signals.also move wires around.
I replaced original bars with Heritage bars and no extra parts needed.
Thank You Sir
 

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I guess I wasn't to clear, I don't want to tie it down on the lift have the front wheel in the chock and then need to turn it to access something (does this make sense)? Plus someone mentioned additional parts? I plan on re-using everything from the original bars, or am I missing something there also. I read everyones post and look at the one Donk submitted, I'm not afraid to tackle the job but I want to be prepared for everything I might encounter......
Thanks for all the help & advice.....
I did not use a jack or lift, and simply because I had to turn the front wheel several times to loosen the bolts on the forks that hold on the plastic trim pieces, and the inner turn signal bolts to remove the fairing.

As long as you have bars that are no bigger than 12- 14 inch apes there is plenty of extra wire under the fairing, plenty of clutch cable and plenty of brake line. No extra parts needed. Good luck to you.
 

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I did not use a jack or lift, and simply because I had to turn the front wheel several times to loosen the bolts on the forks that hold on the plastic trim pieces, and the inner turn signal bolts to remove the fairing.

As long as you have bars that are no bigger than 12- 14 inch apes there is plenty of extra wire under the fairing, plenty of clutch cable and plenty of brake line. No extra parts needed. Good luck to you.
Twowheel99, I thought you got all of your advice from the guy on the orange/black screamin eagle RG???

What bars you going with? My monkey bars came yesterday but havent got the lines yet so I'll be a week or two behind. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Twowheel99, I thought you got all of your advice from the guy on the orange/black screamin eagle RG???

What bars you going with? My monkey bars came yesterday but havent got the lines yet so I'll be a week or two behind. Good luck and keep us posted.
He told me to go the the RG CVO bars, too expensive and they have to be internally wired besides I don't have his money(hahaha). I wanted the monkey bars but ouch $$$$$. I found a set fo black heritage bars on another forum that fit my budget with enough money left over to do a few other upgrades. I've changed tons of bars before but never had to deal with the TBW set up. The dealer here sucks as far as his parts inventory goes, so I wanted to be ready for any issues that I might have cause I leaving for Daytona a week from Friday and meeting the group that's riding down from VA on Friday evening in Ridgeland, SC...
 

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With the bike on the floor jack you can access the bolts & screws and you can sit up straight on the bike to adjust the bars. No tie downs, no pringle (ok maybe 1 tie-down) - just leave the kick stand out and don't raise it too high. ;) If you move the jack forward to just raise the front, the rear wheel should still be on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
With the bike on the floor jack you can access the bolts & screws and you can sit up straight on the bike to adjust the bars. No tie downs, no pringle (ok maybe 1 tie-down) - just leave the kick stand out and don't raise it too high. ;) If you move the jack forward to just raise the front, the rear wheel should still be on the ground.
Good Call, I think that's the way I'll do it and let everyone know if that's the right way to go. also if I don't get it done or I need a break I can roll it over in the corner of the garage.....
 

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i like having the bike level but on the floor. I use my floor jack to keep the bike level but it allows me to turn the bars side to side.
That's the way I used the jack too except toward the end putting the fairing back on and did not feel like bending over (lazy) and up came the bike. lol
 
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