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I am in the middle of doing a cam upgrade and have decided to install new liters while I an in there. I plan on installing the adjustable push rods. At one step they put a load on the push rod to deflate the lifters. if I buy new ones will they already be deflated or do they come with oil already in them from the factory. I guess what I am asking,, is do I have to set the push rods differently with new lifters, as compared to the one on the bike that are pumped up?
 

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The S&S lifters we use here are oiled, but need pressure to pump up via engine operation, or we also have a lifter pump tool that is manufactured by JIMS.
We load a .200" travel lifter here to .140".
Scott
 

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I have an old style pump style oil can. I keep synthetic motor oil in it. I put the end in the hole on the side of the lifter and pump the oil can until oil comes out around the cup in the top of the lifter then install. Make sure and put some assembly lube on the rollers or some motor oil so as not to have metal on metal at first start up.
 

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I just installed mine dry. I was thinking of cranking it over a few times or rotating the rear tire with it in 6th gear to pump them up. I was going to set them at 3 turns down.
 

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I just installed mine dry. I was thinking of cranking it over a few times or rotating the rear tire with it in 6th gear to pump them up. I was going to set them at 3 turns down.
That's a real no/no there. Some soak overnight instead of pumping them up. Some immerse them in oil and take a push rod and push the plunger to pump them up.
 

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That's a real no/no there. Some soak overnight instead of pumping them up. Some immerse them in oil and take a push rod and push the plunger to pump them up.
well sumbich. I don't want to take it apart again.... grrrrrr.
 

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I did slather it in assembly lube. The lifters! sickos! :surprise:
 

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I was told that if you are using adjustable push rods, not to pump up the lifters before adjusting them due to having to bleed off the lifters to adjust. I used Redline assembly lube and let the motor pump up the lifters during first start up. Never heard a noise, like a dry lifter tick or clack upon first firing up.
 

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I was told that if you are using adjustable push rods, not to pump up the lifters before adjusting them due to having to bleed off the lifters to adjust. I used Redline assembly lube and let the motor pump up the lifters during first start up. Never heard a noise, like a dry lifter tick or clack upon first firing up.
Nope, you get the lifters on the base circle, adjust that set of rods on that cylinder. Wait for them to bleed down (you will be able to turn them with your fingers) then rotate engine and got to the other cylinder and do the same. You are adjusting with the lifter spring completely expanded and the cup all the way up. When you start the adjustment process, you hand screw the rods until they touch the lifter and you can't wiggle them up and down. No more than that much by hand, then do your 3 complete turns on the pushrod or the specified adjustment of the rods you are using.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all for the prompt help. I think I'll Pump them up like Smarty said, that way I know I am starting at the correct starting point. Hope this thread helps other in similar situations.:smile:
 

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I don't have my push rods in yet so I'll see if I can get some oil to come up by turning the rear tire. If not I guess I'll have to pull them. They are a lot easier to get off and on with the cylinders off. Oh well...
 

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That's good to know Frankie. Thanks. I was going to get some condiment squeezers at the dollar store and fill them up with one of those. I thought the tip might fit in the top of the lifter when it is all the way up.
 

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That's good to know Frankie. Thanks. I was going to get some condiment squeezers at the dollar store and fill them up with one of those. I thought the tip might fit in the top of the lifter when it is all the way up.
Norm, that won't work from the top where the cup is, you have to squirt into the oil hole on the side. If you just have the lifter blocks on, it would only take 5 minutes to remove and do them right. One at a time. You will see oil come out around the cup when they are full. Oh, and on the light oil that's come in them, there is not much. With the old style oil can pump we used before WD40 came along that you can get at Harbor Freight, it takes 4 or 5 good pumps to get oil to come out around the cup. A little bit of planning, can save a whole lot of headaches down the road.
 

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I hear you. Do you hold the lifter upright, upside down, or on it's side when you fill it?
 

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Thanks. Learning things every day here.
 
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Thanks. Learning things every day here.
Just to give you something to think about, you will go through the trouble of squeezing the light weight oil out, then turn around and pump in some 20-50 just to squeeze it back out when you put the PR's in. If you are using adjustable PR's and depending on how deep in the whole you set them, you will compress the lifter 1/2 to 3/4 the travel, which in turn will squeeze out 1/2 to 3/4 of the oil out you just pumped in them. Depending on the weight of oil you use it will take longer for them to bleed down also.
 

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Just to give you something to think about, you will go through the trouble of squeezing the light weight oil out, then turn around and pump in some 20-50 just to squeeze it back out when you put the PR's in. If you are using adjustable PR's and depending on how deep in the whole you set them, you will compress the lifter 1/2 to 3/4 the travel, which in turn will squeeze out 1/2 to 3/4 of the oil out you just pumped in them. Depending on the weight of oil you use it will take longer for them to bleed down also.
You may do it that way, but all the lifter manufacturers and engine builders say to soak them in oil overnight or pump them up. As you adjust your push rod, you do push some out. As far as bleed down goes, I've always been able to spin the rod with my fingers within 3-5 minutes sometimes less. The reason for pumping up the lifters is for that first startup so you don't have them rattling around for the oil pump to feed them and pump up. For every rotation of the cam with the engine started without being pumped up is causing the lifter to slam against the cam instead of riding on it. A $1 worth of preparation goes a long way to pay for $500 worth of rush and haste. JMHO

Edit: If you ever wondered why there is so much oil in the lifter packaging, that is the oil that drained out while they sat on the shelf and in transit.
 
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