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Discussion Starter #1
There must be a reason MOCO doesn't put the spark plug wire install instructions in the service manual. They haven't figured it out yet. I thought this would be a fifteen minute job followed by a cold beer. Not.

When I looked at the front wire, I noticed it ran under the tank. Way under there. I pulled the seat, removed the rear tank bolts, and raised the rear 1.5 inches with a block. That gave me just enough room to get the wire out without a complete tank removal. Getting the new ones in is a little tricky. I happened to have some cable tie blocks that replaced the OEM ones that came out with the original wires. The originals can't be re-used. After snaking the front wire thru and securing the ties, i was finally ready to fire it up. The engine wouldn't fire. Then I noticed the fuel line was still disconnected. Finally, it runs. Tank bolted down, seat on and ready to go.

What should be a 15 minute job took 1.5 hours, most of which was getting the cable tie under the tank secured. What a PITA. The beer was good though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was hot and humid so I might have started a little early on the beer. When I was pulling the last cable tie loose on the OEM wire, it popped out and I took the hide off my left index finger on the front cylinder fins. Those edges are really sharp and not nearly as smooth as they look. That's when the beer came out. Pain management.:D
 

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What was the reason for changing wires on a 13? If for looks, pictures please. For 15 minute jobs, I always crack the beer 1st!
 

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Doesn't seem like the 13 should be much different than the 10, I changed my wires (for looks), in about 10 minutes. What kind of beer were you drinking? :D :rolleyes:

Sent from my SPH-L710
 
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:Dno 15 minute jobs 4me, yes, START with a beer,3j, then it takes 15 minutes to find the shop manual anther 15 to round up the right tools, then, another beer. but really, thanks for the heads up, i 'was' about to embark on some red ones.. picks please... unless you pt black ones back on..already know what they look like.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Wow. If this can be done in 10 minutes, I'm really impressed. Getting under the tank for the clip in holder and cable tie holder under the backbone was the bear. I should have just removed the tank. It would have been a 30 minute job then. I tried the easy way and paid for it in time.

EDIT: My buddy did his RGC in about 10 minutes. His don't run under the tank and down the backbone like the Ultra does. That's the difference. If I can figure out a way to get mine out from under the tank and out from over the covers, I will do it.

Yes it is a 13 and under warranty. The reason I started looking at the change was because the front wire crosses up and over the rear cyclinder cover. The wire was actually laying on the cover and I didn't like that. The OEM wires are as limp as cooked spaghetti. I picked up a set of Red Screaming Eagle 10 mm wires. They are stout. Once the cable ties are on, the wires run up the frame from the ignition system. The rear has one tie and one slip in clamp. The front has two ties and a slip in clamp. One of the ties and slip in clamp is up on the backbone, under the tank.

I have attached a pic. It's not my bike but one I pulled off Google. You only see about six or eight inches of wire. The rest of the wire is hidden by the heat deflectors and tank. They look good though.

Maybe it's my imagination but the bike seemed to fire off a lot faster. The old wires felt like something I would have taken off a ten year old car.
 

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I'll take another picture later, but my bike is in the garage and its right next to a pressure cleaning trailer, not the best shot and it's raining.

Sent from my SPH-L710
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What's the deal. Do some run down the backbone and not others? Those look good.

Depending on where they are run, it can take between 10 minutes and 2 hours to change the wires. :rolleyes:
 

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I'm thinking a set of dykes would do the trick for a quick install.
 

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I ran into the same problem. I was able to get the old wire out without removing the tank. What I did next was to snake the new wire up in the same area, and leave it there until the next time I needed to remove the tank. Stayed put for over 3 months until I put in my homemade moto-lights.

It is only hooked on 2 or 3 little hooks under the tank. Same hooks that are out in the open on the back cylinder wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A pair of dykes, cold beer. Heck, I would have let the wire hang down and drag the pavement :eek:

Now assuming you meant to cut the ties, if anyone else's is like mine, unless you for sure want to pull the tank, don't cut the ties. If you do, you won't have anything to grab on to remove the wire. Had they been the slip in wire clips like OldNergGuy had, life would have been better for me. But nooooo. They used those wire tie frame connector deals that cause pain, heartache and screwed up fingers when they suddenly pull out of the hole. I needed the hole so they had to go. Now I'm going to get me a cold beer and maybe some new dykes with my buddy.
 

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My front cylinder wire was in a C clamp like wire holder, I simply took one wire out, and put the other in, there were two clamps and one tie wrap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When the weather cools down, I am going to look into moving the wires so that this become a 10 minute job. Not that I would do it very often, but I would like to be able to do it on the road if needed.

First ride with the new wires is good news. Cranks quicker and idles smoother. I'm betting there is a signicant difference in the resistance between the OEM wires causing a rough idle and slow starts when the bike is hot. The new ones made quite a difference and apparently are very close in resistance.
 
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