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Discussion Starter #1
I got my 13 RGU in August last year and immediately added the RC Components slip on. It sounded much better but the power level across the board seemed to drop off. I decided to go ahead and do a stage one upgrade since I wanted to keep the pipes and get my lost power back and hopefully reduce the heat coming off the bike. I started looking into tuners, pipes and air cleaner combinations. There are lots of options to choose from. I ended up talking to an indie and he suggested the SE211 cams, SERT and V&H PD with dyno.

I bought all the above and ended up also shaving the heads, port and flow with larger valves and SE adjustable push rods. It has not been dyno'ed yet and the map is running too rich but the SOTP power increase is incredible. It is like a different bike. It starts pulling at 2500 and doesn't stop till 5000, which is as high as I have had it so far. The bike even shifts better. When the bike was stock I lugged around the lower RPM but I am quickly getting used to riding between 2400 to 3800 cause that is where the sweet spot is.

The V&H PD with RCC pipes are 3 times louder than with the stock head pipe and with the cammed moter it sounds great now.

I'll have it dynoed sometime next week. Really excited to see how much more power I'll gain with a proper tune.
 

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Lil' upgrading

It sounds good to hear someone finally happy with the upgrades they've made to their bike. so many times we hear how little difference an upgrade makes after a ton of $$ is spent...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got my bike back with the new tune. Disappointed. Baxters HD, inexplicably, didn't put the bike on a dyno.The low end/low rev behavior is better. The 2500 RPM kick when the cam hits is all but gone. Power is not where I believe it should be with header, cams, heads and valves. I am starting to think maybe the heads weren't worked on. Can you tell if stock, factory heads have been removed from the bike visually? Will I have to remove the heads to determine is they have been modified? I'm really not wanting to think that the dealer charged me for work that wasn't performed but the bike just doesn't have much more power than stock. I'm sure the cams were installed.
 

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Ok, I'm confused, a month ago the bike was much better than stock and you were happy, now it's been tuned and it's barely better than stock. ..... what were the before and after numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The dealer never dyno'ed the bike after the mods were done. The bike did/does have more power, but was running hot (lean?), backfiring and at low rpm it would load up. There was a good surge @2500 when the cams hit. I was anticipating better performance and more power after the bike got properly tuned. The dealer has re-tuned the bike and the loading and backfiring are gone but there is no power increase and the nice 2500 rpm surge disappeared, that is why I'm not satisfied.
 

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Maybe the reason you got the power surge at 2500 rpm is because the bike was loaded up and it would start to clear out at 2500.
The only way to tell the heads were worked on would be to take them off and look.
IMO head work doesn't give you much bang for the buck and the SE 211 cam isn't the best cam you could have used in the bike.
Of course the tune may be in question, just because the bike was dyno tuned it does not mean that the person doing the tune is good at it. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just got off the phone with the dyno guy @ my local dealership. I have an appointment for 6/5/14. We'll see what happens.
 

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how do you re-tune without a dyno? makes no sense to me! :confused:
Now that I look closer you got a point! I thought the bike was dynoed the 2nd tune. I guess the dealer just reflashed the ECM. :eek:
 

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im lost too.was the bike dyno`d when you liked it? what headwork was done?what are the #`s? who`s heads (or headwork)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I took my bike to a dealer. They installed a header, cams, air cleaner, shaved heads (10:2) ported, flowed and larger valves. The mechanic did a basic download, I assume, which didn't work at low speed. I had the dealer do a 2nd tune to fix the low speed problems. The 2nd tune isn't right either so I'm having another HD dealer do a dyno on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Question: If you had to choose would you A) have your bike dynoed by people you don't know and don't really trust completely, or B) have your bike tuned by a reputable indie?
 

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Question: If you had to choose would you A) have your bike dynoed by people you don't know and don't really trust completely, or B) have your bike tuned by a reputable indie?
It all depends! Dyno techs may only be familiar with certain types of tuners. Since you are running a SERT which is the HD tuner you would think that the HD dealer would be the best place to have the dyno done.
Some indys do not have the stuff to hook up the SERT or don't have the experience in tuning with a SERT to give you good results.
I have had dyno tunes by both indys and HD dealers and they sucked so a dyno tune is the luck of the draw and that is why I use a Thundermax auto tuner now because there is no need for a dyno tune. The best Dyno tune I did get was from a HD dealer tough.
Most of the time the tech will only tune at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) which is OK if you run the bike that way but it is not a good tune for all around riding.
Finding a good dyno tech that knows how to tune and takes the time to tune the bike right is hard to find so look around and ask the riders in your area for recommendations.
Also a good dyno tune if done right will take about 5 hours to do. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Going with the indie and the tune instead of a dyno run. I'm really feeling that I paid for head work that wasn't done. The dealer who would do the dyno I feel would not want to explore too deeply if the results weren't where they should be where the indie would be less inclined to tell me what he thought, and if needed, take the heads off to confirm my suspicions. I'm not feeling good about this at all but the performance I'm getting just isn't where it should be with the amount of work done. I hope I'm wrong. I'll find out in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Finally got the dyno done. Found a lot of untapped power that Baxters HD basic tuner download didn't find the 1st or 2nd time they tuned my bike. Baxters has been in business over 30 years and has a good reputation but they seriously, and unapologetically, screwed me over.

Upgrades = SE211 cam, SE adjustable rods, V&H PD, RC Component slip ons, SE Ventilator, SE RaceTuner, Baxters shaved the heads, ported, flowed, 1.9 valves, 10.2 compression

My numbers pre dyno = HP 86.45, TQ 89.87.
My numbers post dyno. There was no mechanical changes made to the bike, only dyno tuning = HP 97.56, TQ 106.98

I paid for the dyno myself because Baxters clearly were not going to address my complaints of poor performance and that the bike just wasn't running properly. Baxter essentially blamed the disparity in the numbers on everything except the map (and the heads). The 2nd dealer had a hell of a time tuning the bike. 8 hours on the dyno. The map Baxter had was wrong and between 2200 and 3300 the bike was running so rich the line was off the chart so the map had to be changed before they could start the dyno run. The bike was so erratic that it was determined that there likely was something wrong with the build so a compression test was done. Front cylinder was 100 and the rear 115. Damned part of this is I was just going to shave the heads to bump the compression to make the cams work better and Baxter talked me into the other head work.

I'm not a mechanic and don't pretend to know everything about airflow and compression. It was explained to me that there is too much disparity between the PSI in the heads, the compression is not high enough and the valves are too large. It looks like I'll need to have the heads redone, if they are fixable, or get new heads with correctly matched valves.
 

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