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Discussion Starter #1
After obtaining tons of great info about bar replacement, the other day, I decided to give it a shot and go for it myself. Due to work, family and reading a lot of posts about some of the frustrations, I am going about it a little bit at a time as I can. So far, the stock bars are still on, but the gauges are out, the ignition is out (ugh), the fairing is off and I have the new TBW fed through the new 12" Factory 47's.
I look at my bike and all the tools and parts I have spread out and freak out sometimes, but I know I can do this. If it takes me 3 weeks or more due to my schedule, so be it.

This is what I've run into so far:

The reason for the "Ugh" after pointing out that my ignition is out, is because I had it in the off position and took it out like that without the key. I tried putting it right back in after that to make sure it would work and it didn't. It wouldn't lock down. It would still turn everything on and off but wouldn't lock in. So of course, I had to play with it and now, not only does it not lock down, nothing turns on when I turn it. But I've read that it's not that difficult to get everything lined back up, I'll tackle that later.

I taped up the wires for the new twist grip sensor and forgot to lube it up so it got kinda stuck but I got it through the next day.

And I don't know about the rest of you but HOLY SHIT was it hard to get the sensor in the bar. I used some "unorthadox" methods to seat it......I hope it still works. =(

So I'm done for the night and will engage in it tomorrow again or Thursday if possible.

I have the Ness riser bushings too. Does anyone know if I will need the longer bolts are is that just for the 15's and newer?

Stay tuned.....
 

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I did 12" Factory 47's on my 16 RGU, they were a pain in the rear to wire but I got it done!
I used string and pulled everything at the same time on the right side and the left. In hindsight I'm not sure what I would have done differently, maybe take the plug off of the TBW connector.


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Discussion Starter #3
I did 12" Factory 47's on my 16 RGU, they were a pain in the rear to wire but I got it done!
I used string and pulled everything at the same time on the right side and the left. In hindsight I'm not sure what I would have done differently, maybe take the plug off of the TBW connector.


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I bought a new TBW for it without that green plug.. If I ended up breaking it, I don't know how the hell I would get it out lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What year is your bike?
In my sig - 2012 RGC.

When I spoke to my dealer last month, they said when they do bar replacements, they recommend replacing the TGS as most break when being removed.
I believe it since it was hard as hell to get the new one in there.
 

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Dont feel bad. Friday will be the 3 weeks mark for my bike being down for a bar install, speakers and amp, and a chrome front end. Seems like this bastard has fought me every step of the way, but I hope Im close to finishing up here soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dont feel bad. Friday will be the 3 weeks mark for my bike being down for a bar install, speakers and amp, and a chrome front end. Seems like this bastard has fought me every step of the way, but I hope Im close to finishing up here soon.
That's the pitfalls of these toys but when it's done, it's worth it. I had my forks blacked out when I had the Legends Axeo tubes put in. Was down about 5 days but so worth it.

I find myself thinking about the work I have to do constantly...luckily I have a few days off next week.

I'm sure I'll find that I'll need wire extensions or cables and will have to wait for those too....

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Ooh I can relate. Install with some help on Sunday. What started out to be a three hour thought ended up being an 8 hour torture session. Installed 12" KST Outlaws on my 13 Custom. Soldered all the joints which took a long while. Struggled with the fairing going back on. Damn fin tabs are a pain. All said and done and the bike would not start. Fuel pump would not turn on unless I hit the cruise toggle After a nights sleep and look again on Monday had two wires miss connected. Thank god all solders where in the fairing and not in the bars Quick fix and bike ran mint and all electrics were good. Now I can see why shops get top dollar to do this.
 

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That's the pitfalls of these toys but when it's done, it's worth it. I had my forks blacked out when I had the Legends Axeo tubes put in. Was down about 5 days but so worth it.

I find myself thinking about the work I have to do constantly...luckily I have a few days off next week.

I'm sure I'll find that I'll need wire extensions or cables and will have to wait for those too....

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I keep telling myself that its going to be worth it... My schedule is so hectic I only get a few hr late at night to work on it and the last couple nights I have ran into issues with parts being wrong so add in wait time on things and it gets out of hand in a hurry. Im praying I have everything I need now and wont have to A.spend any more money and B. not have to wait on the UPS truck anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had some time to spend on it last night: Stock bars are off and hopefully the worst part is done - The throttle side wiring is through the new bars! (Happy dance!)

But I don't think the wires are gonna be long enough....but we shall see.

Hopefully tonight, I can get the clutch side wiring through and get the riser bushings swapped.

I was actually enjoying working on it last night. Really glad I decided to do this myself.

Granted, I have no idea if anything will work when I'm finished, but hey, live & learn.
 

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I have to give you guys props for doing your bars. I paid a guy to do mine. Besides audio, if it has wires I try to avoid it. I did my 106 kit and cams. Im way more comfortable turning wrenches than doing wires.
The guy that did my bars made color coded diagrams for the pin locations. He has done many many of them and mine took almost 7hrs. He said they were one of the hardest bars he has done. So glad I let him do it and there hasn't been 1 problem at all
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It definitely is a learning experience.

So I have all the wires through, the riser bushings replaced, the bars loosely mounted and the grips and controls on and I swapped in my new black levers.

As for the wires, it looks like the clutch side controls "might" be long enough, the TGS is so close, i will probably extend them and the throttle side control will be short.

I ordered an extension kit from magnum shielding but didn't order the TGS extension kit because for some reason, I thought it would make it.

As for the cables, I have them both mounted, but I am going to relocate the clutch cable to between the tank and fork to give it a bit more room.

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It definitely is a learning experience.

So I have all the wires through, the riser bushings replaced, the bars loosely mounted and the grips and controls on and I swapped in my new black levers.

As for the wires, it looks like the clutch side controls "might" be long enough, the TGS is so close, i will probably extend them and the throttle side control will be short.

I ordered an extension kit from magnum shielding but didn't order the TGS extension kit because for some reason, I thought it would make it.

As for the cables, I have them both mounted, but I am going to relocate the clutch cable to between the tank and fork to give it a bit more room.

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The clutch should be plenty long, but my brake line is pushing it. It certainly works, but every time I look at it, I want a 2" longer line. Your wires should work, I think I remember cutting some zip ties in the fairing and moving the bundles around.

Don't fret putting it back together.....well I fretted the"will this MF'er fire after doing this frustrating ass job?" Part. You can fret about that. Hahahaha

I was amazed at how fast all the parts went back together though. They all have a place and for the most part it makes sense when putting it back together. After a couple times, it's easy.

I did have a hell of time with the ignition. Do as Mo said and read up here plus check YouTube. I used a long flathead srewdriver and messed with it for 45 extremely frustrating minutes. I did finally get it. I saw a cool tip where a guy used some copper pipe and smashed the end to fit tightly in the hole. That made it where the small pieces inside couldn't move.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I definitely have that "Will this MFer fire when I'm done?!"
I got the ignition figured out, not a huge deal once I saw what needed to be done.
As for my wires, the clutch side is probably long enough but I will probably extend them since I will have the kit.

The TGS and control wires on that side, the plug would literally be right in that hole in the frame where the where's feed through.

The other thing is as far as the TGS is concerned, if it's no good for some reason, I'll literally have to destroy it to remove it.

The Factory 47 video shows the sensor sliding in super easy......thats not the case here.

I probably should've pulled it out when I noticed it being so tight and filed down the inside diameter of the bar, but did i do that?! He'll no! Lol

My cables are actually fine. My brake line points straight down so that works.

My clutch cable worked but I rerouted it in front of my forks for more room.

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Discussion Starter #18
Update:

Did a loose wiring hook up the other day and everything fired up. So I took the bars off and redid all the connections with a little bit of solder to strengthen the connections and heat shrinked all the joints. They feel solid. The kits that I got from Magnum Shielding have clips on the end that the harness pins slide into. They even mention putting a drop of solder on them to strengthen them for pulling through the bars. I am glad I only got 12" bars, I would lose my cool if one of them broke while pulling them through.

So now I still have the fairing off but all the rest is put back together and I have 2 small issues that I can see, and hear:

1. The clutch cable seems to get caught up on one of the side bolts that hold the speedometer/tech lower housing together. I'm going to see if I can zip tie it out of the way somehow.

2. When I turn my ignition to the right so it points at fork lock, it makes a "ping" sound. It still works, but makes that sound so something is going on there.
 

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Ooh I can relate. Install with some help on Sunday. What started out to be a three hour thought ended up being an 8 hour torture session. Installed 12" KST Outlaws on my 13 Custom. Soldered all the joints which took a long while. Struggled with the fairing going back on. Damn fin tabs are a pain. All said and done and the bike would not start. Fuel pump would not turn on unless I hit the cruise toggle After a nights sleep and look again on Monday had two wires miss connected. Thank god all solders where in the fairing and not in the bars Quick fix and bike ran mint and all electrics were good. Now I can see why shops get top dollar to do this.
Looks great brother.

Well worth the effort.

Swomack
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for the delay, but she's all together and I couldn't be happier. The 12" bars are perfect for me. I will probably end up going with some nice new shiny cables down the road to finish it off.

But as frustrating as it was at times, I'm glad I did it myself. I know so much more about my bike now than I did before. Plus the self pride with it.

I love my ride!

I just need to find some black acorn nuts for my black mirrors....
 

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