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Thinking of lowering my RGS17 should I use a lowering kit or put new shocks on?
Want to lower it about 1" in the back.
 

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Can you actually find 11" shocks for our bikes that have any travel in them? The 12" shocks barely have any travel. I have experienced the roads in MA and definitely would not want to loose any shock travel.

Maybe try and find tires with a smaller diameter to fit on the rear rim?

Keep in mind that lowering just the rear changes the geometry of the bike and will adversely affect cornering clearance and turn in.
 

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Can’t speak for a special but I just put Covington Customs lowering blocks on my Ultra and the work fine.


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How do you lower the front of the bike. I like the look of the faring close to the fender. Does that make a horrible ride?
 

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How do you lower the front of the bike. I like the look of the faring close to the fender. Does that make a horrible ride?
Sport bike riders slide the forks up in the triple trees and put a larger diameter tire on the rear to make the bike more nimble in the twisties while sacrificing stability on the interstate.

If you lower both the front and the back the same amount you keep the geometry the same, but affect cornering clearance. I recall someone putting shorter fairing brackets on which lowered the fairing closer to the fender and changed the line and look down the side of the bike.
 

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How do you lower the front of the bike. I like the look of the faring close to the fender. Does that make a horrible ride?
There are different ways to accomplish it.
I chose:
Progressive monotube -2”
Ohlins 774 12” with 1” lowering blocks.
I don’t consider it a horrible ride. I enjoy the planted feeling of a stiffer suspension. The Front was harsh with pot holes and sharp bumps with the stock height suspension so......
 

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There are different ways to accomplish it.
I chose:
Progressive monotube -2”
Ohlins 774 12” with 1” lowering blocks.
I don’t consider it a horrible ride. I enjoy the planted feeling of a stiffer suspension. The Front was harsh with pot holes and sharp bumps with the stock height suspension so......
I like that front wheel. What size is that? I'm new the the Bagger world and I'm looking to get a big front rim. What size can I go up to with out modifications?

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If you are after the low look, then lower away.

If you need your feet closer to the ground, then lower the seat, not the scooter.

Lowering the scooter takes away cornering ability. And causes them to bottom out more often.
 

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I'm in the process of dropping our '17 FLTRU 1" front & rear as it's been just a bit too unwieldy on quick stops when riding two-up and a challenge to back-up / move around as I'm sporting a 29" inseam at 145 lbs. I've already tried the lowered saddle position vis-a-via a H-D tallboy. It was great at moving me back and down to the same riding position I had on my Road King CVOs, but still left me needing to wear block heeled boots to get both feet flat on the ground when stopped.

Dropping it 1" should also yield a better ride from the 12" Ohlins rear shocks and better front suspension performance with out the annoying and destabilizing front-end dive on quick stops from the Progressive Monotube lowering kit.

The Ohlins were originally bought for my 2011 Wide Glide and then were moved over to our 2013 Road King CVOs to improve the ride comfort for my wife. So, I'm fortunate to have the Ohlins on hand as I swapped them back out for the OEM Hand-Adjustable Low Sport Shocks when I sold the 2nd Road King CVO a few weeks back. I'm also fortunate that the 12" shock spec for the Wide Glide was compatible with the lowered 2013 Road King CVO suspension and will now give me the 1" drop I need on the Road Glide.

I decided to let my local dealer to the front end kit, so I'll be picking the bike up today and am somewhat cautiously optimistic that it will finally give me the all-around stability I need for two-up riding.

As for ground clearance reductions, I'm not too worried about that. Amazingly, the MoCo says it's fine to drop the standard height touring bikes 1", just don't do 2" if you can avoid it as that will create cornering clearance issues and may require adjustments to the jiffy stand, etc. My benchmark for the lowered ride is our 2013 CVO's, which had lowered suspension and the H-D "low" touring models. I've ridden both and no issues even in the twisties, just watch out for sharp left turns on roads with high crowns: those tend to catch the jiffy stand.
 

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As a follow-up, just got the bike back and it's pretty sweet. I now feel right at home on the bike with firm footing on both feet when stopped, no sloppy front end dive and just better all-around handling. Almost seems like it has a bit too much pre-load, so checking on that. It could also be that the front suspension hasn't "worn-in" enough to eliminate the initial stiction.

Miss Debbie was very happy with how the bike rode and how I seemed to be more comfortable riding the bike.

So, all good here.
 

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As a follow-up, just got the bike back and it's pretty sweet. I now feel right at home on the bike with firm footing on both feet when stopped, no sloppy front end dive and just better all-around handling. Almost seems like it has a bit too much pre-load, so checking on that. It could also be that the front suspension hasn't "worn-in" enough to eliminate the initial stiction.

Miss Debbie was very happy with how the bike rode and how I seemed to be more comfortable riding the bike.

So, all good here.
Pictures or it’s all Bullchit!!! Sorry Pal, rules is rules. :grin:
 
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