[hunter35745]

I am getting ready to install a woods 22 XE, Fueling 4017 Race series lifters, SE pushrods ( suggested by Bob Woods ) new HD cam plate and latest oil pump ( suggested by Bob Woods ) S&S cam chain tensioner, fullsax MX header, Rinehart DBX 40 ( rebaffled with Fullsac 2" perforated baffle suggested by Fullsac Performance ) . My question is should I pull the oil pan to clean it out completely. I do have a electric pump that I can put the hose down into the oil fill and pull all the oil out that way after draining, I am also changing the oil control valve out to the S&S, ( better quality) and plan on evacuating the oil cooler withy my pump at that time also before attaching the hose to the new OCV. Will these measures be sufficient or do I need to pull the pan. Thank you. PS: this is my first time in a HD engine.

 

[kouack]

Do you have any sign of something is worn out in your engine? Have metal in oil filter? Why pulling the oil pan? To clean the newer oil pan that are disposable you would have to grind the rivets holding the windage tray to do an effective cleaning, machine treads and bolt it back together after. There is some picture on the web about someone doing so.

 

[sturge]

Welcome! Was there a previous failure or is this just an upgrade? If it's just an upgrade, I've never heard of the need to pull oil pan for the work you're doing. Interested to hear what others say regarding your question because I'm just a shade-tree.

I've got the same cam on the shelf and getting ready to install on my '19RGS. Already have FM Jackpot stainless 2-1-2 exh installed w/Outlaw slipons. Also installing Arlen Ness big Sucker intake, the newest version of HD oil pump assy, S&S Precision tappets, billet tappet cuffs, and FM adjustable push rods. Will be tuned with a PowerVision loaded up with fuel correct fuel map from Fuel Moto.

Good luck and keep us posted on progress

 

[hunter35745]

Thank you, it is just an upgrade and I own a 2017 Road Glide Special that I purchased in October of 21 with 4000 miles. I mainly wanted to get the newer oil pump and plate installed. This is my first street bike, I am 62 years old and pretty mechanically inclined. I can pretty much do anything with the right instruction. I have not drained any fluids yet so dont know wether the drain plugs are going to have metal on them or not, some I'm sure, (it is metal rotating parts).Good to know about the oil pan, I was thinking that after looking at the schematic. Just want all the info I can get before starting this.

 

[jstucker1976]

Unless there was any prior damage there isn’t any need to pull the pan and clean it. I’m sure others will chime in also

 

[Vinnie]

I am getting ready to install a woods 22 XE, Fueling 4017 Race series lifters, SE pushrods ( suggested by Bob Woods ) new HD cam plate and latest oil pump ( suggested by Bob Woods ) S&S cam chain tensioner, fullsax MX header, Rinehart DBX 40 ( rebaffled with Fullsac 2" perforated baffle suggested by Fullsac Performance ) . My question is should I pull the oil pan to clean it out completely. I do have a electric pump that I can put the hose down into the oil fill and pull all the oil out that way after draining, I am also changing the oil control valve out to the S&S, ( better quality) and plan on evacuating the oil cooler withy my pump at that time also before attaching the hose to the new OCV. Will these measures be sufficient or do I need to pull the pan. Thank you. PS: this is my first time in a HD engine.

If your going into the cam chest I would think about Fueling camchest and oil pump
really top parts with a top price I have used Fueling on prior projects NEVER an issue
Good luck

 

[18 Wicked Special]

No need to drop the pan. Be sure to use assembly lube on the parts going together(oil pump gerotor assy, cam lobes, etc.) to prevent wear and help priming, as the initial start will lack lubrication temporarily prior to oil pressure building.

 

[Bruce00]

I too, wouldn't worry about dropping the pan, but I were paying good money to upgrade your oil pump/camplate.....why go with the best HD offers when you can go with an aftermarket that is better in all ways.
Moonshine HD has a YouTube video comparing oil pumps. The HD 2020 pump, the Fueling pump and an S&S pump. After watching their video, I replaced my 20 pump with the S&S

 

[Vinnie]

If your going into the cam chest I would think about Fueling camchest and oil pump
really top parts with a top price I have used Fueling on prior projects NEVER an issue
Good luck

 

[Thermodyne]

Pans are not cleanable, unless you want to spot face the retention stampings and then drill and re-reivit the mounting for the shield.

The splash shield is dropped over cast pins, and then the pins are flattened to hold it in place. And its a bunch of them that have to be cut off, then the replacement retainers have to be such that you can forever guarantee that they won't come loose and get sucked into the oil pump.

So for the OP. The question is, "do I need to replace the pan?" And the answer is no. Just do the cam chest work. If you are not changing the tappet cuffs, and there is no reason to with that cam, then don't pull the crome covers. Change the tappets from underneath.

Unless you have a way of refilling those oil gallies, pulling all the oil out will do more harm than good. And oil coolers are also not cleanable. Thats a throwaway if there is debris in the oil.

 

[hunter35745]

Thank you Thermodine, actually I am replacing the tappet cuffs with S&S, forgot to add that. After talking to several builders, one of them TR with Tman performance they all said the same thing, stock pump and camplate were more than efficient for this build that is why I chose them, I was going to go with S&S but they all advised against it and actually said there had been some issues with the S&S ones. Bob Wood of Woods Cams exact words were " we are not trying to send this to the moon, stock pump works great". I dont have the knowledge to make these decisions so I try to gather as much info as I can and go with what the experts tell me. That is why I asked the oil pan question even though I was pretty sure it was basically uncleanable. Thank all of you.

 

[Thermodyne]

Thank you Thermodine, actually I am replacing the tappet cuffs with S&S, forgot to add that. After talking to several builders, one of them TR with Tman performance they all said the same thing, stock pump and camplate were more than efficient for this build that is why I chose them, I was going to go with S&S but they all advised against it and actually said there had been some issues with the S&S ones. Bob Wood of Woods Cams exact words were " we are not trying to send this to the moon, stock pump works great". I dont have the knowledge to make these decisions so I try to gather as much info as I can and go with what the experts tell me. That is why I asked the oil pan question even though I was pretty sure it was basically uncleanable. Thank all of you.

As said above, it's not a moon rocket with that cam, so why change the tappet cuffs?

 

[hunter35745]

18 Wicked Special, yup got me a big bottle of Torco and a squirt can.

 

[sturge]

OP...assume you have shop manual? If you don't, I would not start the job until getting one!

 

[LoneCabbage]

As said above, it's not a moon rocket with that cam, so why change the tappet cuffs?
[/QUOTE

I agree there is no need to change tappet cuffs with just bolt in cam upgrade. I think all the concern over the factory tablet cuffs is way overblown. Far more people have had catastrophic problems with tappet cuff bolts breaking off in the case while trying to remove them than there have been actual failures of the factory tablet cuffs. In fact the few reports of failures with the factory cuffs that I’ve read about, occurred when a lifter failed and took out the entire cam chest. GM has been running a similar composite lifter cuff in their LS engines for many years, many of which go hundred of thousands of miles without issue.

 

[hunter35745]

Sturge, Yes sir I do have one. Wife works at a printing company, they made me a fancy one.

 

[smitty901]

There have been a few issue with changing factory tablet cuffs . It seems that if not heated properly sometimes no madder how careful you are the bolt twist off. Some have found it a real nightmare to deal with. I guess it comes down to why mess with if you don't have to..
Always a good idea IMO to replace HD lifters.
The Woods 22X cam is a great choice for torques on the low end and through operating range. Easy to tune to and gets along well with wide range of exhaust options.
When the wok is done you will really notice the difference.

 

[Thermodyne]

I agree there is no need to change tappet cuffs with just bolt in cam upgrade. I think all the concern over the factory tablet cuffs is way overblown. Far more people have had catastrophic problems with tappet cuff bolts breaking off in the case while trying to remove them than there have been actual failures of the factory tablet cuffs. In fact the few reports of failures with the factory cuffs that I’ve read about, occurred when a lifter failed and took out the entire cam chest. GM has been running a similar composite lifter cuff in their LS engines for many years, many of which go hundred of thousands of miles without issue.

I pulled a 17 down to make a cam change, and it had no cuffs on the front cylinder. Owner said it had never been apart and the locking compound on the cover bolts agreed. Tappets had a little more frosting but were otherwise fine. Bout 30 months old and 7500 miles at the time.

I was loading the tappets from the bottom, and I start them in 90 off so I can feel them pick up the cuff as twist them on the way in. Couldn't get it to lock in the cuff. And when I looked, I was expecting it to be broken, but it was just not there.

 

[jstucker1976]

I pulled a 17 down to make a cam change, and it had no cuffs on the front cylinder. Owner said it had never been apart and the locking compound on the cover bolts agreed. Tappets had a little more frosting but were otherwise fine. Bout 30 months old and 7500 miles at the time.

I was loading the tappets from the bottom, and I start them in 90 off so I can feel them pick up the cuff as twist them on the way in. Couldn't get it to lock in the cuff. And when I looked, I was expecting it to be broken, but it was just not there.

Was the bolt broke and missing also, or wasn’t installed from factory? That’s crazyness

 

[Thermodyne]

Was the bolt broke and missing also, or wasn’t installed from factory? That’s crazyness

No bolt, and no thread locker left in the hole, it just never got installed.