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Discussion Starter #1
Bleeding the clutch only takes a short time using the gravity method. Could have been a 10 minute job. BUT...

I couldn't get that cover off to get to the bleeder. Had to remove the right floor board to be able to remove header exhaust shields, then loosen up the header bolts and clamp bolt to give me play. Then the cover came off.

Also bled my brakes with the twin scan IV. Nice piece. Seems there is also a place in the menus to flash the head unit for after market audio. My HU is already flashed so I didn't mess with that.
 

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Thanks for the post; didn't know such an item existed for a "relatively" reasonable cost. Appreciate the info. Just curious though, why the need to bleed the brakes,(or the clutch) on such a new bike? Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for the post; didn't know such an item existed for a "relatively" reasonable cost. Appreciate the info. Just curious though, why the need to bleed the brakes,(or the clutch) on such a new bike? Thanks again.
Manufactured date on frame is 8/16. Was on vacation this week so I got it done. Harley sent out letters to do the brake bleed every 2 years (since they use junk components and they will fail if you don't).

BTW, got a great deal on ebay. Ebay had 15% off. Eastern perf had the twin scan IV for $395. I had $45 funny money. I paid $290 out of pocket. Dealer charges $150 to bleed brakes & it will only keep going up each year. That's why I bought the device to do it myself.
 

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Manufactured date on frame is 8/16. Was on vacation this week so I got it done. Harley sent out letters to do the brake bleed every 2 years (since they use junk components and they will fail if you don't).

BTW, got a great deal on ebay. Ebay had 15% off. Eastern perf had the twin scan IV for $395. I had $45 funny money. I paid $290 out of pocket. Dealer charges $150 to bleed brakes & it will only keep going up each year. That's why I bought the device to do it myself.
Again, THANKS! I had the dealer do mine last summer; been miffed ever since. Considered going back to an EVO just to get away from the computers, as I am a dinosaur in this area. STILL MIGHT; go back to the EVO, that is.
I'll keep my eyes on eBay in the meantime.
 

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Manufactured date on frame is 8/16. Was on vacation this week so I got it done. Harley sent out letters to do the brake bleed every 2 years (since they use junk components and they will fail if you don't).

BTW, got a great deal on ebay. Ebay had 15% off. Eastern perf had the twin scan IV for $395. I had $45 funny money. I paid $290 out of pocket. Dealer charges $150 to bleed brakes & it will only keep going up each year. That's why I bought the device to do it myself.
That's a nice score, last Feb I had my brakes flush at the 4 yr mark. It was $120 at HD. Are you saying you need the tool to bleed the clutch also, or maybe I read that wrong. Anyway, I'll keep an eye on eBay for discounts
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a nice score, last Feb I had my brakes flush at the 4 yr mark. It was $120 at HD. Are you saying you need the tool to bleed the clutch also, or maybe I read that wrong. Anyway, I'll keep an eye on eBay for discounts
The clutch bleed is normal. No tool needed. Was just venting at the fact that I have stock headers and had to take all that apart to get that cover off. I'd have no complaints if I replaced my headers with aftermarket. Harley could have given half and inch more of clearance and I'd be good to go.

I was "afraid" at first about doing the brakes myself. But the scan tool was VERY easy to use. Downloaded the software online. It installed very easily. Then installed the comm software. Very easy. Ran the software, found the port I was using. It was all MUCH easier than I thought it would be. I'm anal so I ran through the procedure twice, it really works over the ABS unit each time for 60 seconds.

...time to go look for a Sportster Forty-Eight Special (I like the handlebars they put on the special much better) to add the the stable. Midlife crisis time as the wife says. Haha. If I had the money I'd buy a new bike every week no matter what the occasion.
 

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You don't need the computer to bleed the clutch but you do have to check the clutch pressure plate movement on the other side once you've bled the system. There is a minimum spec on this and if you don't get it to the spec you just re-bleed the line and keep checking until it gets to that spec. Otherwise you could have clutch drag and we all know how annoying that can be. I did the process on my 2012 CVO and wasn't aware that you had to check the clutch pressure plate and thought I was all good. Took the bike out for a ride and noticed that at every light I stopped at the bike wanted to creep forward unless I held in the brake. Mentioned it to a friend and he told me to check the clutch pressure plate movement with a dial caliper and see if it met the spec in the manual. Took me forever to find the spec but once I did mine did not meet the spec. It took 4 more bleeds to get it into spec and all was good.
 

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Harley sent out letters to do the brake bleed every 2 years (since they use junk components and they will fail if you don't).
Really has not as much to do with the quality of Harley's components as it does the fact that brake fluid is Hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. It's also not just 2 years, it's every 2 years or 50k miles or if the brake fluid is tested and has too much moisture. Here is a link to a tool that you can use to check the moisture level in the brake fluid. You can find then cheaper but this is just an example.


https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80665/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180040106330&catargetid=230006180038439837&CADEVICE=c&https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80665/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180040106330&utm_source=bing&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Bing Shopping_New&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=_pcrid_75522711385578_pkw__pmt_be_pdv_c&ref=paid&brand=&channel=Shopping&jegspromo=thirdparty&msclkid=038a215f3aee17638ecc7ad68a2becb5

Not saying this to be an a$$, more to just pass information on that many may not know. I personally don't have a problem with HD's guidelines on this as many other manufacturer's have the same or very similar standard. Just part of maintenance and I plan it into my budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You don't need the computer to bleed the clutch but you do have to check the clutch pressure plate movement on the other side once you've bled the system. There is a minimum spec on this and if you don't get it to the spec you just re-bleed the line and keep checking until it gets to that spec. Otherwise you could have clutch drag and we all know how annoying that can be. I did the process on my 2012 CVO and wasn't aware that you had to check the clutch pressure plate and thought I was all good. Took the bike out for a ride and noticed that at every light I stopped at the bike wanted to creep forward unless I held in the brake. Mentioned it to a friend and he told me to check the clutch pressure plate movement with a dial caliper and see if it met the spec in the manual. Took me forever to find the spec but once I did mine did not meet the spec. It took 4 more bleeds to get it into spec and all was good.
I am happy to report my clutch never felt better. It is way better now and I really wouldn't want to change the current friction point.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Really has not as much to do with the quality of Harley's components as it does the fact that brake fluid is Hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. It's also not just 2 years, it's every 2 years or 50k miles or if the brake fluid is tested and has too much moisture. Here is a link to a tool that you can use to check the moisture level in the brake fluid. You can find then cheaper but this is just an example.


https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80665/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180040106330&catargetid=230006180038439837&CADEVICE=c&https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80665/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180040106330&utm_source=bing&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Bing Shopping_New&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=_pcrid_75522711385578_pkw__pmt_be_pdv_c&ref=paid&brand=&channel=Shopping&jegspromo=thirdparty&msclkid=038a215f3aee17638ecc7ad68a2becb5

Not saying this to be an a$$, more to just pass information on that many may not know. I personally don't have a problem with HD's guidelines on this as many other manufacturer's have the same or very similar standard. Just part of maintenance and I plan it into my budget.
I am anal. I always err on the side of doing maintenance too soon. Just me. But thanks for the info.
 

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I am happy to report my clutch never felt better. It is way better now and I really wouldn't want to change the current friction point.
My reply was more to answer Bruce00 and to let people know that there is a spec so if they decide to do this on their own and started having any clutch drag issues that this is how they can check it. I didn't mean to make it sound like you had to bleed it several times at every service. Sometimes the first time is all it takes. Glad to hear yours went well.
 
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