Road Glide banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've done some searching on the site and couldn't find any post about this. Looked on HD forums and saw that people were complaining about excessive valvetrain noise. They were saying that the stealerships were telling them it was normal. I recently got back from the Dragon which I rode every mile out and back from WY. Got to TN and the thing started having a ticking noise first thing in the mornings, got out my screwdriver and found it to be coming from the rocker boxes. Its odd because when the bike is cold it ticks like crazy all the way up to about 2600 and then goes away all together when the bike is hot. At first I thought I blew the thing up already as I do 85-90 most all the time I'm cruising some place. In the signature: 2017 FLTRI M8 no motor work done, stock cams. Maybe I'll take a video of it and attach it that way I can show the sound. Never tried a video on here.

Anyone else experience valve ticking with their M8s?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
...
sounds like time to take a look.

my '18 FLTRX had ticking on cold startup that progressively got worse, and they replaced 3/4 of the engine under warranty.
it had scored cam, lifters, front cylinder, and bad rockers. they replaced the entire top end, cam and cylinders.

you can cut out the old pushrods, check the lifters and cam chest without taking the rockers off if you replace with adjustable pushrods.

if that ain't it, you can pull the rockers and take a look there.

it's not gonna get any better...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Stock late TC and M8 lifters are 18538-99C, and the C stands for made CHEAPER in Mexico from around 2010 model year.

These must be replaced every 30,000 miles or so, just like the lifters on an Evo. But they sure can fail a lot earlier.

And they must come out with a cam swap. My bike is stage 2 and those stock lifters started to grenade at 13,000 miles on my 2019 with the H-D Torque cam. Luckily the warranty came to the rescue. I have the Screaming Eagle lifters in now, but the packaging for those does NOT say the vital phrase ''Made in USA'' and I will probably swap those out for American-made quality after warranty expires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It may be the lifters.
...
sounds like time to take a look.

my '18 FLTRX had ticking on cold startup that progressively got worse, and they replaced 3/4 of the engine under warranty.
it had scored cam, lifters, front cylinder, and bad rockers. they replaced the entire top end, cam and cylinders.

you can cut out the old pushrods, check the lifters and cam chest without taking the rockers off if you replace with adjustable pushrods.

if that ain't it, you can pull the rockers and take a look there.

it's not gonna get any better...
Stock late TC and M8 lifters are 18538-99C, and the C stands for made CHEAPER in Mexico from around 2010 model year.

These must be replaced every 30,000 miles or so, just like the lifters on an Evo. But they sure can fail a lot earlier.

And they must come out with a cam swap. My bike is stage 2 and those stock lifters started to grenade at 13,000 miles on my 2019 with the H-D Torque cam. Luckily the warranty came to the rescue. I have the Screaming Eagle lifters in now, but the packaging for those does NOT say the vital phrase ''Made in USA'' and I will probably swap those out for American-made quality after warranty expires.

Well I thought it sounded like lifters too but it wasn't coming from the cam chest region when I put my ears to it. Straight from the heads.......and especially on the left hand(gear shifter*Completely unrelated*) side of the bike. If the lifters were dead that would prevent them from pressuring up correct??!!! Which would then in turn cause the valves to be especially noisy maybe?!

I could pull the rocker box covers and visually inspect, I have the service manual....expect Harley has a spec on valve lash?

@Little Wing that sounds like an expensive fix.....and unfortunately and naturally I'm way past the warranty......

Maybe its time for new heads and cams......the wife is going to be thrilled with this report ha ha ha ha ha ha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I quiet literally just finished posting on another forum some of my thoughts and experiences. 17 RGS, that I bought with about 8300 miles on it. I bought it in the fall of 18 and after making two longer trips in the spring of 19 I had two instances where after getting off the highway my top end was clattering like crazy. No sumping issues at all. Later in the season of 19 I started to get a bunch of top end noise that drove me crazy. I decided that I was going to swap out the chrome engine covers for black so I made the plan to make some upgrades while doing it. I upgraded to the 20 HD 8 lope pump, Woods 22x cam, Woods lifters, FM adjustable push rods, S&S lifter cuffs and S&S rocker shaft stud kit. Things did get quieter but I still have a bit of ticking from the front cylinder. I have played around with turns on the push rods with no effect. One thing I did while I things apart was to take some end play measurements of the rocker arms. What I found was the two front shafts had about .008" play. The intake on the rear had about .006"-.007" and the exhaust on the front had about .002". Not too surprising that the front head makes the most noise with those numbers. I would seriously consider getting another set of rocker arms to install, take measurements and then have machined so that I could get add shims to get the measurements to around .002"-.003" all around. The other thing I also noticed was that the rocker arm shaft mounts had some scouring marks on them; not sure if this meant anything or not. Just some food for thought.

Neil
RDMC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I quiet literally just finished posting on another forum some of my thoughts and experiences. 17 RGS, that I bought with about 8300 miles on it. I bought it in the fall of 18 and after making two longer trips in the spring of 19 I had two instances where after getting off the highway my top end was clattering like crazy. No sumping issues at all. Later in the season of 19 I started to get a bunch of top end noise that drove me crazy. I decided that I was going to swap out the chrome engine covers for black so I made the plan to make some upgrades while doing it. I upgraded to the 20 HD 8 lope pump, Woods 22x cam, Woods lifters, FM adjustable push rods, S&S lifter cuffs and S&S rocker shaft stud kit. Things did get quieter but I still have a bit of ticking from the front cylinder. I have played around with turns on the push rods with no effect. One thing I did while I things apart was to take some end play measurements of the rocker arms. What I found was the two front shafts had about .008" play. The intake on the rear had about .006"-.007" and the exhaust on the front had about .002". Not too surprising that the front head makes the most noise with those numbers. I would seriously consider getting another set of rocker arms to install, take measurements and then have machined so that I could get add shims to get the measurements to around .002"-.003" all around. The other thing I also noticed was that the rocker arm shaft mounts had some scouring marks on them; not sure if this meant anything or not. Just some food for thought.

Neil
RDMC
So can I keep riding it this way?
I wouldn't think that I would have any valve to piston action if the lifters aren't pressuring up when theyre cold....in fact the opposite and may have a loss of power as a result if my line of thought is correct.

I'll just have my rocker covers powder coated black when I tear it down this fall if I can safely ride it....

Can you describe a little more in detail where the end play measurements were taken?
Do the rocker lockers work for these rocker arms?
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
This would be nice if I found this issue......

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,270 Posts
This would be nice if I found this issue......

Means nothing, how much does it move torqued to spec? Its just a slightly over sized hole to help with being assembled 4 bolts at a time on the line.

Past that it is a weak point on a high end motor build. The issue we have as self installers is when the oem pushrods are used and the rocker is drawn down with that bolt. With big springs it can pull the threads right when it takes the load, even with the tappet on base. Work around is studs or not pre filling the tappets.

Using studs and setting them in with locktight is prolly the best solution right now. Set them up with an bare shaft and let them cure before you draw them down against the tappets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This is the exact noise.......not my video though

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The question still remains unanswered.......Can I finish the season out with it this way? Or should I tear it down right away?
I did just put 1800 mi on it with this problem......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
arrrrrggggg I just don't want to tear my bike down right now........I still have my other bike but my 17s been my trustiest steed yet....and I know every time you touch the motor you're easily gonna spend 3K.....and I only have 9K left to pay off on the bike.....had I bought the extended warranty im sure this wouldn't be an issue and they would have made their dime off me like all extended warranties are intended to do....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
arrrrrggggg I just don't want to tear my bike down right now........I still have my other bike but my 17s been my trustiest steed yet....and I know every time you touch the motor you're easily gonna spend 3K.....and I only have 9K left to pay off on the bike.....had I bought the extended warranty im sure this wouldn't be an issue and they would have made their dime off me like all extended warranties are intended to do....
i hear ya, but if she blows, she'll take a lot of parts with her.
since it goes away after it warms up, it's prolly lifters or oil pump, and that ain't gonna cost that much to fix.
can you do the work or have an indy that you trust?
my local dealer isn't all that busy right now, don't know about one in your area.
they could do a preliminary diagnostic on it without going to far into the motor.
time is the kicker...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
i hear ya, but if she blows, she'll take a lot of parts with her.
since it goes away after it warms up, it's prolly lifters or oil pump, and that ain't gonna cost that much to fix.
can you do the work or have an indy that you trust?
my local dealer isn't all that busy right now, don't know about one in your area.
they could do a preliminary diagnostic on it without going to far into the motor.
time is the kicker...
Yeah I'll absolutely do the work. Hopefully my buddies at my indy will keep giving me the good guy discount on parts....ha ha ha I was planning on switching it out with a S&S Oil cooled 465 chain drive cam chest kit so I don't need to change valve springs. Not a radical cam. Also found in the drag book Jim's makes some rocker arm shaft kits they claim the parallel tolerance or I believe what @Roadsofa what speaking of as end play is 0.0005" and it comes with the stud kit. All together plus the tool for pulling/installation tool for the inner cam bearing. I'm looking at a total of at least $2200 for parts. Needless to say, the wife wasn't pissed I was baffled. LOL Guess I'll be riding my 06 and saving up my pennies for these parts. Harley needs to let me test ride the next new motor and bike....I'll find every weak link in the thing.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top