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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got around Saturday to putting the MadDoggers on and I gotta say I love em, money well spent especially considering I picked em up from sdlaker for a fraction of the cost. These are the 14" and the stock cables and lines work as well, I have extended ones but will wait to put them on when its not so good riding weather.
 

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Looks great! Just ordered my Malo bars last week. Would love to see more pics. Did you just route the wires differently? Maybe should me a pic of how you did that if not a problem. Like you, I'm getting the wires but hoping to put the bars on now and then maybe deal with wires this winter when I'm bored.
 

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Well I extended the wiring just not the cables, I have the cables but got the factory ones to work. My indy shop ordered me NAMZ wire extensions +12 and they were all color matched and had female molex pins for ease of connection, I highly recommend them, and the extra wire made it easy to to put everything back in factory location inside the fairing. I didn't take any pics of how I got the wiring through the bars but I can describe it. Check out the sticky at the top of this section as they were very helpful.
1. Take pictures and draw a wiring diagram of your harness before you take any of them apart.
2. I pulled the switch wiring through with the Harley black liner on it and the liner hung up at the bottom hook, just the wires from there out. I didn't feel like pulling it back through again so I ran heat shrink inside just to protect them, they should be fine just laying in the bottom of the bar.
3. When you go to pull them I ran a small hobby chain through the bars first and then attached that to 550 para-cord and used that to pull them. The chain kept breaking because you have to PULL hard, at least I did.
4. Once I had all of them through the bars I soldered on the wire extensions heat shrunk em and then a little tape over that because I am overkill with things.
5. If you don't plan on using the heated grips go ahead and cut the small black harness off with the TBW, it makes it easier to pull that one through.
6. I didn't do the TBW hardwired because I pulled all of mine with the harness off so as to not stress it by pulling on it.
7. It took me about 3 hours to disassemble the harnesses, run the wires through and reassemble the harnesses. Everybody has a different experience with this and it wasn't the easiest but worth it in the end. I can see why shops charge what they do.

I also shot a little WD40 in there for some lubrication while pulling them. Let me know if you have anymore questions that I can help with, others will chime in to I'm certain and they may have a better way this was just how I went about it.

Cables:
I just had to unclip the front brake line right below the tank and it is plenty long enough from that point on and the clutch just needed rerouted to the outside of the fairing bracket/necklace area. I have the extended cables but will put them on when I make other changes and just do it all at once, for now I wanna ride so it doesn't bother me.
 

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Well I extended the wiring just not the cables, I have the cables but got the factory ones to work. My indy shop ordered me NAMZ wire extensions +12 and they were all color matched and had female molex pins for ease of connection, I highly recommend them, and the extra wire made it easy to to put everything back in factory location inside the fairing. I didn't take any pics of how I got the wiring through the bars but I can describe it. Check out the sticky at the top of this section as they were very helpful.
1. Take pictures and draw a wiring diagram of your harness before you take any of them apart.
2. I pulled the switch wiring through with the Harley black liner on it and the liner hung up at the bottom hook, just the wires from there out. I didn't feel like pulling it back through again so I ran heat shrink inside just to protect them, they should be fine just laying in the bottom of the bar.
3. When you go to pull them I ran a small hobby chain through the bars first and then attached that to 550 para-cord and used that to pull them. The chain kept breaking because you have to PULL hard, at least I did.
4. Once I had all of them through the bars I soldered on the wire extensions heat shrunk em and then a little tape over that because I am overkill with things.
5. If you don't plan on using the heated grips go ahead and cut the small black harness off with the TBW, it makes it easier to pull that one through.
6. I didn't do the TBW hardwired because I pulled all of mine with the harness off so as to not stress it by pulling on it.
7. It took me about 3 hours to disassemble the harnesses, run the wires through and reassemble the harnesses. Everybody has a different experience with this and it wasn't the easiest but worth it in the end. I can see why shops charge what they do.

I also shot a little WD40 in there for some lubrication while pulling them. Let me know if you have anymore questions that I can help with, others will chime in to I'm certain and they may have a better way this was just how I went about it.

Cables:
I just had to unclip the front brake line right below the tank and it is plenty long enough from that point on and the clutch just needed rerouted to the outside of the fairing bracket/necklace area. I have the extended cables but will put them on when I make other changes and just do it all at once, for now I wanna ride so it doesn't bother me.
I am looking at the meat hook 14" Malos. I cannot believe you fit the stock cables. Is there any binding up from full left and right of the forks turning? Also, what size cables will you use to put them back in stock locations/ Thanks and the bars look great by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No binding at all full lock to lock, I popped them out of the necklace area and ran them outside. As far as replacement cables I ordered +6 because that is what I measured after I mocked them up, +4 would probably work but I know +6 puts everything back in stock location. I've put 200 miles on it so far and no issues at all, definiteley do the +12 wire extensions makes it real nice for getting everything back in the fairing as it was. Also you do not need to put the wire extensions on before pulling through the bars, the stock wires are long enough to get through just solder em on after they punch out the bottom.
 

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No binding at all full lock to lock, I popped them out of the necklace area and ran them outside. As far as replacement cables I ordered +6 because that is what I measured after I mocked them up, +4 would probably work but I know +6 puts everything back in stock location. I've put 200 miles on it so far and no issues at all, definiteley do the +12 wire extensions makes it real nice for getting everything back in the fairing as it was. Also you do not need to put the wire extensions on before pulling through the bars, the stock wires are long enough to get through just solder em on after they punch out the bottom.
I appreciate the great info!
 
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