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Discussion Starter #1
I have been chasing this noise since December and finally figured it out. Due to the weather I have not had alot of riding time to figure out where it was coming from. It started out only being noticeable while rolling under load, but yesterday I could actually hear it sitting still while rolling on the throttle and leaning my head down towards the primary.

The noise started while the bike was being dyno tuned in early December. The tuner came out and said the inner primary bearing was going bad. I nursed the bike home and tore it down and replaced the bearing & race, added the SE Compensator, Hayden chain tensioner, and VP Clutch while I was at it. The inner primary bearing and race were bad, and you could see where the teeth on the starter sprocket was rubbing the inner wall of the primary case. I thought I was good.

After putting it back together and going riding though the noise was still there. Noises are hard to describe, but I thought it could have been pinging, a loose bolt, or the exhaust heat shields rubbing something. My biggest fear was I had done something wrong with my 107" and cam build last fall. The good news is my build is solid.

I wrestled last night with going ahead with a Baker DD7, taking the bike to an Indy, or tackling this myself. I searched out the tools I will need to buy and found some less expensive alternatives to the HD stuff. Being mechanically inclined and adventurous I decided to take a page out of my late Fathers playbook and dive into this myself. My dad was one of those guys that could fix anything even if he had never done it before. Other than the main drive gear bearing installer/puller and a few other odds & ends I have all the tools I need anyway. No point paying someone to do something I think I can handle myself. :eek:

If anyone who has done this has any pointers I'm all ears (or eyes I guess). I'll try and document as I go along for a change. I usually don't think to until I'm half done with a project. :D
 

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I had to have mine replaced at 29,000 due to the POS HD primary chain tensioner keeping the chain too tight all the time. My local stealer said it was the isolated drive system making the noise so I rode it till the noise got worse, then replaced with a Baker tensioner, SE compensator, new main drive bearing and race all done by a indy mechanic here. Good luck with the work-sounds like you have all the tools and know how required.
 

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That should be an interesting build. Does the DD7 have the welded flywheels ? That should be bullet proof when your done.
That one thing that keep me from building mine. Unless you go bottom and top, its just a matter of time with these oem flywheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not going to do the Baker DD7 at this point. I didn't word that very well above. I'd like too, but the price is a little steep though probably worth every penny.

I did forget to add that I only have 23,000 miles, have been using Redline tranny fluid since 10K miles and was running Syn3 prior to that. I don't ride my bike real hard, but did while breaking it in after my 107" build.
 

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I'm not going to do the Baker DD7 at this point. I didn't word that very well above. I'd like too, but the price is a little steep though probably worth every penny.

I did forget to add that I only have 23,000 miles, have been using Redline tranny fluid since 10K miles and was running Syn3 prior to that. I don't ride my bike real hard, but did while breaking it in after my 107" build.
What ya going with?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What ya going with?
My plan is to just replace the main gear bearing and race and the needle bearings inside the main gear. Assuming the main shaft and everything is OK that will be it, but will not know till I get everything apart. I'm undecided on the Cage bearings till I get a look at them, but probably worth replacing since it will be out of the transmission case.

That was one of the appeals to the Baker DD7. It comes with a new cage and bearings that are much beefier than the stock setup. Can you tell I'm still thinking. :confused:
 

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Man, that's a big job getting there. No way I'd leave that stock flywheel in there. Unless your not planning on keeping the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Man, that's a big job getting there. No way I'd leave that stock flywheel in there. Unless your not planning on keeping the bike.
I'm going into the trans not the motor.
 

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Let us know how it turns out. What kind of noise did you hear that lead to the bearing failure and were there any other warning signs?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What kind of noise did you hear that lead to the bearing failure and were there any other warning signs?
No other warning signs except the noise. The trans still shifts and operates fine though neutral has been harder to find lately. Glad I figured it out before something catastrophic.

The best way to describe the noise was a loose bolt rattling around. It was most noticeable as I would let off on the throttle after reaching cruising speed. Never heard it under acceleration until yesterday. I believe the actual noise is from the teeth on the sprocket rubbing the inner primary case wall. I've heard others describe a "whining" sound as an indicator, but never noticed that sound, but could be because of the exhaust being loud. The only whining came from me after I figured out what was wrong. :rolleyes:
 

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DA' I guess I need to pay better attention when reading post off my phone. I don't blame ya then . The Trans is a lot of work but not like the bottom half of the engine.

That would make a great read on your tranny rebuild.
 

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I definetly want to see how this turns out, I think this thread has been the final straw in convincing me to change the primary chain tensioner real soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think this thread has been the final straw in convincing me to change the primary chain tensioner real soon.
After taking mine off when doing the primary bearing and seeing how it works and ratchets up to tighten I am fairly certain this was the cause of my bearing failures. Had I not run the engine so hard breaking it in or if I had changed the tensioner to the Hayden previously this may not of happened.
 

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Hullhorr did you upgrade the Compensator to a S.E. ? Iv'e read good and bad about the upgrade . I was all set to order the up grade and started reading other forums and now I'm not sure.

Was there only one type of chain tensioner from Hyden that fits our bikes ? Just looking quickly I see they make several types.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did put a SE compensator on. I read some of those same bad reviews, but it was still supposed to be better than the stock comp. If memory serves me correctly it had something to do with primary oil getting between some of the pieces and lubricating properly. Some had ground grooves in one piece to allow the fluid to enter the cavity easier.

M6BT07 is the part # for the Hayden tensioner for my 2009. I assume yours would be the same. Baker also makes an aftermarket one that is adjustable. The only downside is you cannot adjust it unless you remove the outer primary cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I

I started tearing it apart last night. The drain plug for the primary fluid contained a fair amount of metal on the magnet. After removing the Hayden tensioner, compensator, and chain I noticed when I put my hands on the clutch basket I could move it side to side slightly. I'm wondering if perhaps my problem is the Clutch bearing and not the main shaft bearing.

Once I removed the clutch basket and loosened the axle to release the drive belt tension I could mess with the main shaft coming out of the trans. There is a very slight bit of movement in and out on the mainshaft, and even less side to side movement when grabbing the sides of the drive pully and trying to move it.

Does anyone know if there should be any movement at all with the drive pulley or in and out play of the mainshaft. The in and out play might be 1/16" if that. Side to side is just a slight bit of movement. Once some tools show up I will remove the drive pulley and get a closer look at the main bearing and movement. I don't want to remove the transmission guts if I don't need too. I'll drain the tranny fluid tomorrow and check the plug for metal. My thought is there shouldn't be any movement side to side of the drive pulley no matter how slight, but I've been wrong before.




 

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I would think if your main shaft was wobbling excessively it would of worn the seal and leaked fluid. Thats what happen to me once.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I would think if your main shaft was wobbling excessively it would of worn the seal and leaked fluid. Thats what happen to me once.
It definitely is not wobbling excessively. I have had no leaks of trans or primary fluids. It just has a slight bit of movement.

I may just replace the clutch bearing at this point and put it back together and see if my noise goes away. The inner primary bearing and race that I replaced in December still look good.
 

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You should have no side to side play on the sprocket. On a 5 speed I never noticed in and out play. The sprocket should feel rock solid in my opinion. If not torque will win out long term as the leverage will grow with the play.
 
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