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Installed ManOWar on 2012 Glide with 70k miles.
Tons better than the SE OEM junk.
Longevity yet to be seen. Don’t beat the bike too hard.
Regarding the noise in comments here. Darkhorse does warn in their Instructions, (Yeh, what the hell are those eh?) that hi-mileage Bikes will get a neutral noise. Mine is not very loud. Greatly improved over the Clunk-Clatter of the HD.
Unless your 2012 is a CVO, it didn't come with the "SE OEM junk". I just came with regular OEM junk.

Nice first post. Welcome to the Tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I have had my Motor Sprocket on a brand new build for about 500 miles. The primary sounds like garbage. Thinking of going back to the stock compensator or the Baker compensator. Hard starting when it’s hot. I am thinking that has something to do with the motor sprocket. Changing the clutch out Friday to a Bandit. It has a Barnett Scorpion in it now and it won’t go I to neutral when the bike is running. Builder said the noise and the hard starting is the clutch. So we will see after the clutch change.


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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Also I notice a lot more vibration on the interstate. The bottom end is a Darkhorse crank with Timken bearing conversion. I would figure with a balanced bottom end the bike would be smoother. It is not. All leads back to the motor sprocket in my opinion.


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Unless your 2012 is a CVO, it didn't come with the "SE OEM junk". I just came with regular OEM junk.

Nice first post. Welcome to the Tank.
I thought they started using the SE version in 2011. I believe there were 2 upgrades iirc.
 

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Unless your 2012 is a CVO, it didn't come with the "SE OEM junk". I just came with regular OEM junk.

Nice first post. Welcome to the Tank.
Good catch... They’re on to me!
Actually the local HD sold me the SE Comp upgrade about 2015 to solve the issues of the OEM.
And if I remember right, the SE had more parts than the OEM. I did install myself and it wasn’t too bad. The cost was little over $300. Terrible for 5 year life.
Anyway, the ManOWar is the answer and so much better engineered than the HD.
 

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2013 RGU, FM 110, Super Shox (rear)/Pro-Action (fork kit),
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Went with MOW first. No good on my 13 RG so went SE upgrade. At 6k replaced the spring set because of the typical clunk when shutting off bike. Ready for another spring set at another 7k. Maybe try another path but not sure which way to go.
 

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Also I notice a lot more vibration on the interstate. The bottom end is a Darkhorse crank with Timken bearing conversion. I would figure with a balanced bottom end the bike would be smoother. It is not. All leads back to the motor sprocket in my opinion.


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I did pretty much what you did to your drivetrain on my 2015 RGS, going from 103TC to 107TC. DarkHorse complete deal on cases and flywheels, Baker DD7, Alto +1 Carbonite clutch kit with new hydraulic e-z pull actuator. But I run a Oregon Hot Bikes hydraulic primary chain tensioner and I have for all of my builds since early 2000s. I put a solid compensator sprocket on the crank but got tired of the noise and jerking at lower rpms. Went back to stock for now but am going to go with ManOWar when they get back in stock. I also talked to Kevin at ProTwin Performance and that's what he recommended. I had some neutral issues early on too before I got any wear on the new clutches but better now. I did notice things smoothed out some by changing the solid comp out. Hope this gives you some help.
 

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I took mine off. It made the trans rattle so bad it was unbearable. I guess you can call it neutral knock. Having trans replaced with a Baker grudge box because I am having 3rd gear issues. Also adding a trask clutch basket. I will put the Man O War back on after the trans swap. So for now I am bikeless. Baker said 7-10 days to get trans. We will see. I have heard horror stories about waiting for Baker Transmissions to arrive. Hope that is not the case.


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hey i bought the darkhorse t- 34 and was under the impression that it was a direct bolt on replacement, boy was i wrong same thing as you rattle rattle in the primary sounded like the damn thing was about to come apart rocks and all that. even replaced the chain tensioner with a PSR i might also add a 200.00 dollar piece and still the same thing. so since Darkhorse wont return my calls I called the people i bought it from i know i messed up doing that but i just had to know, called on Friday, boy was that a mistake got a guy that was on there tuner staff i should have known better real smartass he ask me how many miles i have on the bike i say about 16000 thousand miles and he says, WELL THATS WHATS WRONG!!!! i go what? then he tells me that i need a new chain and clutch basket to make it work right to get the noise out of it....... so after buying a 600.00 hundred dollar paper weight i have to go out and buy another 4 to 5 hundred dollars worth of parts to make their product work right. nothing was said about YOU MIGHT have to change the chain and entire clutch assembly out to make everything work like it should Monday im calling Dark horse and telling them if they dont return my call NEXT STOP YOUTUBE enough said ride safe
 

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hey i bought the darkhorse t- 34 and was under the impression that it was a direct bolt on replacement, boy was i wrong same thing as you rattle rattle in the primary sounded like the damn thing was about to come apart rocks and all that. even replaced the chain tensioner with a PSR i might also add a 200.00 dollar piece and still the same thing. so since Darkhorse wont return my calls I called the people i bought it from i know i messed up doing that but i just had to know, called on Friday, boy was that a mistake got a guy that was on there tuner staff i should have known better real smartass he ask me how many miles i have on the bike i say about 16000 thousand miles and he says, WELL THATS WHATS WRONG!!!! i go what? then he tells me that i need a new chain and clutch basket to make it work right to get the noise out of it....... so after buying a 600.00 hundred dollar paper weight i have to go out and buy another 4 to 5 hundred dollars worth of parts to make their product work right. nothing was said about YOU MIGHT have to change the chain and entire clutch assembly out to make everything work like it should Monday im calling Dark horse and telling them if they dont return my call NEXT STOP YOUTUBE enough said ride safe
i might also add i had my Mech reinstall the S.E. comp and what you know primary noise went away and bike sounds fine lesson learned
 

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Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I almost bought one but couldn't find any real life reviews and with a small parameter for the crank's endplay , I chose to go a different direction.
By recommendations from guys on here and a few build shops I went with a solid gear. I haven't installed it yet because I'm waiting on some parts from the MOCO that been back ordered for the last 6 weeks, to complete the job.
Keep everyone updated on how Darkhorse responds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I did pretty much what you did to your drivetrain on my 2015 RGS, going from 103TC to 107TC. DarkHorse complete deal on cases and flywheels, Baker DD7, Alto +1 Carbonite clutch kit with new hydraulic e-z pull actuator. But I run a Oregon Hot Bikes hydraulic primary chain tensioner and I have for all of my builds since early 2000s. I put a solid compensator sprocket on the crank but got tired of the noise and jerking at lower rpms. Went back to stock for now but am going to go with ManOWar when they get back in stock. I also talked to Kevin at ProTwin Performance and that's what he recommended. I had some neutral issues early on too before I got any wear on the new clutches but better now. I did notice things smoothed out some by changing the solid comp out. Hope this gives you some help.
I have the SOB hydraulic tensioner new in the box at home. Haven’t put it on yet. I wonder if that will help with the noise ?


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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
hey i bought the darkhorse t- 34 and was under the impression that it was a direct bolt on replacement, boy was i wrong same thing as you rattle rattle in the primary sounded like the damn thing was about to come apart rocks and all that. even replaced the chain tensioner with a PSR i might also add a 200.00 dollar piece and still the same thing. so since Darkhorse wont return my calls I called the people i bought it from i know i messed up doing that but i just had to know, called on Friday, boy was that a mistake got a guy that was on there tuner staff i should have known better real smartass he ask me how many miles i have on the bike i say about 16000 thousand miles and he says, WELL THATS WHATS WRONG!!!! i go what? then he tells me that i need a new chain and clutch basket to make it work right to get the noise out of it....... so after buying a 600.00 hundred dollar paper weight i have to go out and buy another 4 to 5 hundred dollars worth of parts to make their product work right. nothing was said about YOU MIGHT have to change the chain and entire clutch assembly out to make everything work like it should Monday im calling Dark horse and telling them if they dont return my call NEXT STOP YOUTUBE enough said ride safe
That’s not going to help trust me. Mine is a completely new driver train. Dark horse flywheels, trask clutch basket and Bandit Sportsman clutch. The primary makes the same shity noise it made before with the Man O War motor sprocket.


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I have the SOB hydraulic tensioner new in the box at home. Haven’t put it on yet. I wonder if that will help with the noise ?


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I have had great luck with them on a few builds. It's just a hydraulic tensioner with a spring to maintain enough pressure when there's slack in the chain. Uses the primary fluid as it's fluid, simple. Coming from a manufacturing and design background, it just makes good sense too. They have provided great customer service in the past for me too, when needing replacement pads or having questions. Owner even got out of the shower and took my call one time. That's customer service.
 

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Love reading the reviews. I plan on a 32 tooth over winter
 

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I dont have the manOwar comp, I use a solid eliminator sprocket so this is just MY opinion on it being noisy...

The manOwar is a tweener, half compensator and half solid sprocket. The bushings are supposed to act like a buffer to emulate an actual compensator but they arent buffering enough which makes it act more like a solid sprocket. I personally think the noise is some chain slop which may or may not be affected by the cam(s) which can make the engines run erratically depending upon the cam lobes. That erraticness if you will will amplify any other play in the primary which will add to the noise. Example, the clutch plates in the basket which has a slight side to side play because they cantbe tight because they need to move in and out. The slop will amplify the noise.

I've had the solid sprocket on for 3 years without problems other than some primary noise when idling in neutral. I attribute that noise to what I just explained because when I did put the solid sprocket on i had my 124 built and I replaced the primary bearings, clutches and basket along with a new chain and hayden tensioner to start off with fresh stuff.

This could all be long winded bullshit but since I still get the primary noises even with a complete rebuild of the primary I attribute that noise to what I explained.
 
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I dont have the manOwar comp, I use a solid eliminator sprocket so this is just MY opinion on it being noisy...

The manOwar is a tweener, half compensator and half solid sprocket. The bushings are supposed to act like a buffer to emulate an actual compensator but they arent buffering enough which makes it act more like a solid sprocket. I personally think the noise is some chain slop which may or may not be affected by the cam(s) which can make the engines run erratically depending upon the cam lobes. That erraticness if you will will amplify any other play in the primary which will add to the noise. Example, the clutch plates in the basket which has a slight side to side play because they cantbe tight because they need to move in and out. The slop will amplify the noise.

I've had the solid sprocket on for 3 years without problems other than some primary noise when idling in neutral. I attribute that noise to what I just explained because when I did put the solid sprocket on i had my 124 built and I replaced the primary bearings, clutches and basket along with a new chain and hayden tensioner to start off with fresh stuff.

This could all be long winded bullshit but since I still get the primary noises even with a complete rebuild of the primary I attribute that noise to what I explained.
Did ya'll remove your Spring packs before installing the solid gear or MOW comp ?
 

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The Man O War got my attention as I had a 1980 Sturgis which was a twin belt design with a rubber comp sprocket similar to the MOW setup. Now I know technology has improved greatly in the past 40 yrs. But those rubber bushing in that bike needed replacing constantly, so much so I kept an extra set in my tool box.
I do like, you don't have to pull the primary chain to replace the rubber bushing in the MOW.

Thinking out loud..........
HD's comp sprocket, IMHO is the best setup to counter the the Vtwins firing shock on the drivetrain. When you remove the comp sprocket ability to absorb the shock of the Vtwin firing, the shock goes to the trans/clutch basket.
I believe the Star Racing billet comp sprocket or Cycle Rama's comp sprocket allows the unit to do the job HD designed it to do, without the breakage

But I could be wrong :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The Man O War got my attention as I had a 1980 Sturgis which was a twin belt design with a rubber comp sprocket similar to the MOW setup. Now I know technology has improved greatly in the past 40 yrs. But those rubber bushing in that bike needed replacing constantly, so much so I kept an extra set in my tool box.
I do like, you don't have to pull the primary chain to replace the rubber bushing in the MOW.

Thinking out loud..........
HD's comp sprocket, IMHO is the best setup to counter the the Vtwins firing shock on the drivetrain. When you remove the comp sprocket ability to absorb the shock of the Vtwin firing, the shock goes to the trans/clutch basket.
I believe the Star Racing billet comp sprocket or Cycle Rama's comp sprocket allows the unit to do the job HD designed it to do, without the breakage

But I could be wrong :D
My next move will be buy the star Racing ramp and reinstall the stock compensator. The noise is really annoying.


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I've had the MoW installed for about 200 miles now. And its replacement is sitting on the bench waiting for the lift to free up.

Too much noise for me. I can go from a chain whine, straight to knocking, no sweet spot. I'm convinced there are two issues. One is crank runout. If the sprocket shaft has more than slight runout, the chain is going to make noise. The second is a lack of damping at idle. If you have a set up that cam lopes at idle, you will probably have some neutral knock. My sprocket shaft runout is .0045. And on that big 34 tooth sprocket it it alters the chain slack a little more than 1/2 inch per revolution. If this was a hot rod, it would be fine, I could live with the noise. But its supposed to be a road sofa.

I have a tool steel cam for the oem comp that will be going back in this week. While inspecting the oem comp I noticed that the small spring has bee running compressed flat. Its polished across the whole face. I might install a stiffer spring in place of it. I'll have to see what I have laying around.
 

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Interesting to finally hear all the first-hand feedback from riders about the MOW. It was sure hyped when it first came out (so was the first gen Baker comp), but it seems now that it is not really living up to the kudos that the internet dished out originally; I even considered buying one for a bit, but I have actually had decent longevity out of my OE comp even though it is considered 'the bad year' model. I can scratch the MOW off the list - thanks gents.
 
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