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Discussion Starter #1
Last year I installed an Arc Audio MPAK 12 on my 2016 FLTRXS. It sounds great, but I'm looking for more (louder better sound at 80 mph). This year, I invested in a set of lowers and I'm trying to figure out the second set of speakers. I have a couple of questions.

1. Should I mix different speakers between the upper and lower fairings?
If so, any ideas to match the Arc Moto 602's in the upper?

2. If I should stay with the Moto 602's, what is the difference between the 602 & 602v2? Are the v2's worth an extra $60 or $70?

Budget wise, $200 speaker vs $400 speaker? I'm OK with spending $400 to get a noticeably difference, but is it a $200 difference?

I understand the sound is very subjective, what sounds good to you may not sound good to me. I know some members have gone though dozens of speakers, Just looking for some advise, so I can narrow my selection down.

What am I listening to? Rock, Metal, Alt., Reggae, just about anything but that Techno B.S.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I am in a very similar situation, but with a couple small differences. Last year I purchased a Biketronics 4180 amp and the Arc 602v2s, for my '15 FLTRXS fairing. I went with the 4-channel amp because I got a good deal and wanted to be able to expand in the future. After awhile, I found that I needed more volume at 80mph so I tried a higher sensitivity speaker for my amp. I went with a pair of Polk MM652's and they are louder than the 602s but the sound is more harsh/sharp than with the 602s.

I just ordered color matched lowers with speaker pods for my bike so that I can experiment with the speakers I have in those two locations. My thought is that I will put the 602s back in the fairing to get the better sound quality in my face, and put the louder Polks in the lowers. We'll see what happens. Your budget is higher than what I had to work with, so I am sure someone with better bike audio knowledge can suggest some nicer speakers than the Polks.

Keep us posted!
 

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The 602s are a great sounding coax speaker, but you’ve found their weakness - after awhile you want more volume. The only way to go from here is some of the better component sets out there. Other coax speaks may be louder but will lack sound quality, it’s all a trade off. Grab a set of DD AW 6.5 and a decent tweet and problem solved.

You didn’t mention it, are you running the arc bridged? If not 150W isn’t enough to make the 602s happy. 180 - 200W and they really come alive.


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I am using hertz sv165 in the lowers. These are midrange speakers which I am ok with as the fairing speakers are very bright. The have a high sensitivity and get very loud very fast. If you are looking for volume these are the way to go, loud and clear. If you are looking for a perfect sonic experience your gonna need to install a cage around the bike. The sv's do scream.
 

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I am using hertz sv165 in the lowers. These are midrange speakers which I am ok with as the fairing speakers are very bright. The have a high sensitivity and get very loud very fast. If you are looking for volume these are the way to go, loud and clear. If you are looking for a perfect sonic experience your gonna need to install a cage around the bike. The sv's do scream.


+1. The sv 165 are a great choice for lowers to add some fill. Not a fan on their own, but they compliment a full range front fairing speaker very well.


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Discussion Starter #6
The 602s are a great sounding coax speaker, but you’ve found their weakness - after awhile you want more volume. The only way to go from here is some of the better component sets out there. Other coax speaks may be louder but will lack sound quality, it’s all a trade off. Grab a set of DD AW 6.5 and a decent tweet and problem solved.

You didn’t mention it, are you running the arc bridged? If not 150W isn’t enough to make the 602s happy. 180 - 200W and they really come alive.


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No, not bridged. Audio is not one of my strengths. Didn't want to smoke a $1000 system. :surprise:
 

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No, not bridged. Audio is not one of my strengths. Didn't want to smoke a $1000 system. :surprise:


It’s easier to setup than you think. A basic multi meter is all it takes and the extra 30 or so Watts makes a noticeable difference.


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Discussion Starter #8
It’s easier to setup than you think. A basic multi meter is all it takes and the extra 30 or so Watts makes a noticeable difference.


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Correct me if I'm wrong. Bridging an amp will double the power and reduce ohms in half?

With the Moto 600.4, the bridged output would be 300 watts at 2 ohms? Isn't this more that the 602's can handle?
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong. Bridging an amp will double the power and reduce ohms in half?

With the Moto 600.4, the bridged output would be 300 watts at 2 ohms? Isn't this more that the 602's can handle?
It will put out 300W maximum at 2 or 4 ohm depending on switch settings (varies amp to amp). You are correct, they won't handle 300W. Just set the gains so that they're getting about 200W (28 V on the DMM) at the max distortion free volume - 14 of 17 bars on the infotainment system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It will put out 300W maximum at 2 or 4 ohm depending on switch settings (varies amp to amp). You are correct, they won't handle 300W. Just set the gains so that they're getting about 200W (28 V on the DMM) at the max distortion free volume - 14 of 17 bars on the infotainment system.
OK, that makes sense. Thanks
 

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I'm running Hybrid Audio and Hawg Wired, no issues with weather and I have almost
80,000 miles on my bike.
 
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