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Installed a set of Progressive's lowering monotubes on my '12 RGC over the week-end. Here's some observations that hopefully will help.
The scoot is a 2012 FLTRX with 21F/17R wheels and stock rear shocks.

Lowered 1" and used 3 pre-load spacers on each leg as per the instructions.
IMHO this is a must do when going with a 21" front wheel;

1. The bike now looks and feels perfectly balanced.
2. Not top-heavy, easy to get off the side stand.
3. Slow speed manouvering feels normal again!
4. Able to use my centerstand and the sidestand holds at a normal angle again.
5. Handling feels greatly improved, planted and responsive but not harsh.
6. No clunks or strange noises and the nosedive is gone!
7. Hardest part of the job for me was getting the top plugs out as I didn't have a press to hold them properly. Went to a buddy's shop, covered them with a towel to avoid scratching, locked them really tight in the press, took an
open wrench to them and voila! plugs out! Once you exchange the innards of each leg the rest is cake.
8. Must use the impact wrench and 6mm long allen on the bottom screw of the right leg and u can use a regular 6mm allen (socket drive) for the left leg (rider's perspective).
9. I put 5oz. BelRay 15 weight (because that's what I had laying around) in each leg, go slow, pump slow or you'll make a mess and won't get all the needed oil in them.
10. Either be very careful, follow the service manual procedure exactly or have the alignment tool on hand when removing the ignition switch selector knob. If the switch's tumblers go out of alignment it can turn into a cursing festival ...:cool:
11. Some specific tools needed for a "smooth" install include a 1 3/8" socket, 6mm drive socket (long), torque wrench, workbench adjustable press, bike specific service manual and an electric or pneumatic impact wrench.
12. I also changed the fork seals, cheap insurance at $21.00 for both. Used the PVC tube tool/method which has been posted in other threads.

Not involved in any way with Progressive Suspensions. These are just my obsevations while riding my scoot, hope they help whomever is on the fence regarding these.
 

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Looks great, man! I'm in the middle of doing mine right now.

I pulled the stock forks after I had my tank off to run some wiring and just used the triple tree as a fork holder. After the top caps were off, it was just a matter of dropping the forks a bit to expose the half nuts and get them loose with a 13/16 wrench. With the tank off, it's a breeze ... no need to even remove bars.

What did you use the press for?
 

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Just wait until you get a few thousand miles on them, your going to like them even more. :)
 

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Looks great! Thanks for the write up.
 

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Mono tube

I believe they have worked out the bugs. I had a pair installed shortly after they were on the market on my '07 Ultra Classic and they were great until the nitrogen leaked out one day. No warning, I got on it to go for a long ride and shortly after we left there was a terrible knocking noise coming from the front end. I stopped several times to check for anything loose. Made it home with no incident, called Progressive on Monday and they told me to remove and return them for evaluation. They were warrantied without an issue other than my bike was down for nearly three months during the redesign. No one offered to pay for any of the labor required to tear down and reassemble once the new ones came in. I inquired why it was taking so long and Progressive reported they had new orders to fill first before they could take care of an exisiting customer. I put the stock suspension back in so I could enjoy the riding season and then sold the replacments when they arrived. The fellow I sold the redesigned ones tells me he loves them. No more dive! they just should have done a better job of taking care of an exisitng customer first.
 

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I just bought a set of these in stock ride height and I can't wait to put them on tomorrow!!

Those that met me at Daytona know I had problems with fork oil leaking out of the chrome lowers I had put on by the guy I bought the bike from.

I just determined today he put the fork seals in backwards which is what I suspected all along!! On a good note he's paying me back for the mistake with good 'ol American ca$h!! I'm using that ca$h to buy the mono-tubes stay tuned for my testing them in Western NC and Eastern TN at the beginning of May.

PS I hate the way the stock front end dives and handles during slow maneuvering and quick direction changes, I went with the stock height so I don't have to worry about grinding the boards as much in the sweepers!!
Yes I'll be riding the Dragon but more importantly riding the Cherohala Sky way!!! :eek::eek:
 

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Well I put on the 940's and it dramatically improved the rear suspension. Now I notice the front so much more. The 940's lower the rear 1 inch, should I go with the lower mono tubes, or standard? I've never done this job, is it a big job for one person?
 

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I like the look and ride I got from the lowered versions on mine. It looks like it'll bottom out but so far it hasn't.

The job isn't hard to do, took me 4-5hrs leisurely. Make sure you have a 1-3/8" socket for the top tube bolts, they aren't tight, just hard to get to to with anything but a socket. The tube caps are a bit tricky to get out as you have to hold onto the tube with something, I simply clamped it between a couple pieces of wood in the vice. You'll also need a 6mm hex(allen) wrench or bit for the lower bolt above the axle.

If you're thinking about changing bars you might as well do that too as you'll be 3/4 of the way there to get the tubes out.
 

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I like the look and ride I got from the lowered versions on mine. It looks like it'll bottom out but so far it hasn't.

The job isn't hard to do, took me 4-5hrs leisurely. Make sure you have a 1-3/8" socket for the top tube bolts, they aren't tight, just hard to get to to with anything but a socket. The tube caps are a bit tricky to get out as you have to hold onto the tube with something, I simply clamped it between a couple pieces of wood in the vice. You'll also need a 6mm hex(allen) wrench or bit for the lower bolt above the axle.

If you're thinking about changing bars you might as well do that too as you'll be 3/4 of the way there to get the tubes out.
I found if you remove the gas tank (very easy), you can get to everything easily and use the triple tree clamps as a fork holder. I used a large crescent wrench for the top cap, dropped the fork tube a little to expose plug, re-tightened the pinch bolt and then used a 13/16 in wrench to loosen the plug. No need to remove bars this way.
 

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Installed a set of Progressive's lowering monotubes on my '12 RGC over the week-end. Here's some observations that hopefully will help.
The scoot is a 2012 FLTRX with 21F/17R wheels and stock rear shocks.

Lowered 1" and used 3 pre-load spacers on each leg as per the instructions.
IMHO this is a must do when going with a 21" front wheel;

1. The bike now looks and feels perfectly balanced.
2. Not top-heavy, easy to get off the side stand.
3. Slow speed manouvering feels normal again!
4. Able to use my centerstand and the sidestand holds at a normal angle again.
5. Handling feels greatly improved, planted and responsive but not harsh.
6. No clunks or strange noises and the nosedive is gone!
7. Hardest part of the job for me was getting the top plugs out as I didn't have a press to hold them properly. Went to a buddy's shop, covered them with a towel to avoid scratching, locked them really tight in the press, took an
open wrench to them and voila! plugs out! Once you exchange the innards of each leg the rest is cake.
8. Must use the impact wrench and 6mm long allen on the bottom screw of the right leg and u can use a regular 6mm allen (socket drive) for the left leg (rider's perspective).
9. I put 5oz. BelRay 15 weight (because that's what I had laying around) in each leg, go slow, pump slow or you'll make a mess and won't get all the needed oil in them.
10. Either be very careful, follow the service manual procedure exactly or have the alignment tool on hand when removing the ignition switch selector knob. If the switch's tumblers go out of alignment it can turn into a cursing festival ...:cool:
11. Some specific tools needed for a "smooth" install include a 1 3/8" socket, 6mm drive socket (long), torque wrench, workbench adjustable press, bike specific service manual and an electric or pneumatic impact wrench.
12. I also changed the fork seals, cheap insurance at $21.00 for both. Used the PVC tube tool/method which has been posted in other threads.

Not involved in any way with Progressive Suspensions. These are just my obsevations while riding my scoot, hope they help whomever is on the fence regarding these.
Bike looks great!

Thanks for this write up! I am in midst of doing the 21F/17R on a set of PM Heathens next month, just waiting on parts to arrive and glad to hear the outcome is an improvement vs. the other way. I have the 1" or 2" lowering Monotubes as well and will be letting my local HD wrench do the work. Too much for me without having everything I need.
 

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My 12 RGC is at the local Indy. Installing monotubes with a 2" drop. Powder coated lowers, cowbells,crashbar turn signals. Anybody have any issues with a 2" drop?
I was checking out the bike on the service lift. Not a lot of clearance between the fender and the oil cooler. Had to order a shorter jiffy stand not enough lean angle.
 
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