For length it all about your comfort. For instance at 6'3 I can put up with 13" or even 14" shock length but for a guy say 5'8" May feel better at 11"

So jump on the scoot and have someone measure your rear suspension center to center of the shock bolts at the adjusted height you like. If you have done the air ride yet and like the factory height. 12" is fltrx , 13" is fltru


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I'd be in for some @ 13"

 

Oh sweet baby Jesus. I think you nailed it. I didn't even think about anything like that. How do you think that brass grommet with hold to the crushing it might take being between the shock and a washer with the bolt tightened up. Seems pretty sturdy. That webbing looks perfect.

 

I made this one to purposely break. I'm gonna bolt it up to hydraulic press an see just what it can take.

The webbing is rated at 24 kn which is a shock load of almost 5000lbs


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You got it


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PM sent Lund

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Tagged for future reference

 

Quick updated on my straps they failed at the grommet after the third hit I've got design 2.0 in the works now.will test tonight . New design will have the ends double thickness should increase the strength.


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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BAIm6v95J0

Done and Done.......

Project complete..... except to add an air tank for additional supply.

Thanks to all those who have helped add to this thread.

 

Nice job. Great choice in music too

 

Nice work. Turned out good from the looks of it. Dumps fast .

My shocks just came in waiting on the rest. Once Handle bars come in ill rip her apart. Going to do it all at once.

 

Limiting straps.....

Well, I guess I didn't think this project all the way through. Made the dents in the slip ons but did not limit the full extension. So, with the Gabriel shocks I still need to us a limiter on the shocks?

Thanks in advance.

 

If you have a dent. You might as well ride out with it. There's been guys here that dent their exhaust on purpose. Hope that makes you feel better.

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+1. My V&H have the indentations made into them. They must have known about this mod waaay before i thought about doing it

 

well shit...guess you bastards have me hooked in....

I spent 3 hours reading all 80 pages.

Lots of questions but I think I have enough knowledge to start ordering stuff.

D.

 

Its actually not that difficult of a mod to do

 

Don't feel bad. I did same thing. But in the end it was a good read. Gives you lots of ideas on how it can all come together. Half my parts are in and I have compressor and shocks mounted. I ran into a pickle last night. With shocks mounted and bags on I only have a 1/8" between upper shock bolt and inside of bag. Which is not enough to install the 12" off-road limiting straps. Starting to see why some guys went with the cable setup

 

It'll be real easy for you. You have all the tools at home.. Let me know if you need any info.


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Installing my air ride

Working on my system. Had the fairing painted and doing my audio system also.
Waiting on the switch for my air ride. I hooked up a remote to it works nice.
Thanks for all the information on here. Made it lot easier.

 

Started the project. Junked all the old grade five bolts and went grade 8 drilled and tapped side of stereo cradle. Rest of my goodies should be in when I get home today. Shocks were a piece of cake. I drilled out the old bushings and took vise grips and pulled the metal sleeve out. Took all of 10 minutes and both shocks were swapped out and ready to go

 

I leaked a teaser video to my buddy of my rear end lowering up and down and now I have three friends. 1 street glide, 1 road glide , 1 road king. All wanting me to put this setup on there bikes. . I don't have time for all of this work lol

 

Just wanted to check a couple things to make sure I have it right.
1) I need to get (4) 1/2" longer bolts for the shocks (Gabriels)
2) I can use two push button momentary switches. One to operate compressor and one to operate dump
Am I wrong on any of this guys?
Thanks as always

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I would just run one 3 way switch. Up and down.

 

Depend of your type of switch, you might need to attach a relay to it.

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Thanks guys. Just for my curiosity, what's the advantage of using one switch instead of two.... Other than having to mount two switches.

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I guess theres no real advantage but youd have to run more wire than needed therefore more potential for problems and 1 switch IMO would keep it a cleaner easier install.

 

Just install one momentary switch. I recommend the CVO truck lock switch.


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Thanks guys. Can you flush mount the cvo switch somewhere besides the console? I've got the ultra so all of those spots are filled.

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I often thought the same thing as I have the same thing. Ultras have the speakers switch and reset button on the left and the aux and another switch (I can't remember) on the right.
I guess you could relocated the reset button and put the switch in that spot.


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Pull out and move the trip detent button. Move it where ever you want. Oval out that hole where it used to sit. It'll look like the right side of the dash.

 

You can take Torqu advice and move the odometer button to the hole thats in the left side of the gauge housing. It will fit in that hole.

 

I finally found the time and removed the CVO trunk momentary switch.

Now I'm using the CB up and down on the left, it works great, right there at my finger tips.

Wasn't easy had to remove the outer fairing the handlebar and all the controls, also brake and clutch, just to pull the wires from the plastic cover, the hard part is to run them back thru that cover

The whole job took me about 4 hours, I like to do things neat, but it was worth it, really like it better than the CVO switch.