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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the front rotors on my 2012 warped after about 2k miles and was replaced under warranty. I bought a set of 2014 take-offs and put them on. After about 2500 miles I could feel the lever pulsating again. I'm going to have to replace it on my dime. Anyone have any luck with an aftermarket alternative? It looks like the stockers are more miss than hit. I spoke to a service manager who said they automatically presume any bike they take on trade will need new rotors.
 

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Buy a set of full floating rotors. Harley brand, or aftermarket. That will fix the problem.
+1 ^^^^
Floating rotors are the best way to go, if you keep putting on the stock rotors you will keep having problems with the rotors warping.
This has been a ongoing problems and I don't know why HD doesn't address it.
There isn't a issue with the back rotors warping and the only reason I can think of is that the back rotor is thicker than the front rotors are.
 

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I never knew about the proper way to break in new pads and rotors, until i started having some issues. The dealer doesnt tell you how to properly break in the brakes and pads after you've purchased a new bike. So here is a little guide i found and explanation:

"Many people complain about brake pulsation and warped rotors. This guide is meant to help understand why you get brake judder and what you can do to prevent it.
Brake judder is primarily caused by the formation of hard nodules in the iron. Engineers call these nodules heat spots. When I measure warped rotors, I find that the radial runout as referenced to the wheel mounting surface is in spec. So the term "warped" rotor may not be an accurate description of the problem. However, my dial indicator shows elevated bumps from heat spots on the rotor surface. As the rotor passes under the pad, these spots cause brake judder, i.e. pulsating brakes. It only takes a spot .001 inches above the rotor surface to feel brake judder.
Pulsating brakes start with a localized zone of high temperature in the rotor. The most common cause is uneven friction deposition on the rotor. At colder operating temperatures (less than 400 degrees), brake pads work with abrasive friction, just like sandpaper on wood. At higher temperatures, brake pads transfer a thin layer of material to the iron rotor surface. As the rotor heats up, the primary friction force changes from abrasive friction to adherent friction, i.e. pad material is applied to the rotor and simultaneously sheared and the broken chemical bonds cause a resistant friction force. Most racing pads work using adherent friction, which explains why racing pads don't really stop well under cold conditions or normal street driving.
An example of an uneven friction deposit is pad resin glazing. If you get your rotors hot, the resin from the pad will liquify and glaze on the rotor surface. As the pads rub on the elevated glazed surface, it gets a lot hotter, and the heat is localized in just one area of the rotor. When the temperature exceeds 1150F, the cell structure of the iron changes into hard brittle spots called cementite. These heat spots don't wear down like the normal iron material surrounding it. So the spots become elevated above the rotor surface, and you start to feel brake pulsation. You can try to turn down the rotor, but the cementite nodule is often deeper than the cut, so the brake pulsation just comes back after a few weeks. Here are some ways to prevent the problem:

  1. Use drilled rotors to keep the temperature below the point where heat spots start to form. Drilled rotors also prevent pad glazing as shown in SAE paper 2006-01-0691.
  2. Don't clamp down on the brakes after a hot stop. If the rotor is hot and you clamp down on the brake, you will deposit friction from the pad to the rotor in just one spot. The elevated friction area will get hotter than other parts of the rotor and start the cycle that produces cementite nodules. I try to roll the car a little after a hot stop so the pad does not rest in just one place.
  3. Break in your new pads properly to initiate a uniform friction layer on the rotors. Some people install new drilled rotors and pads and immediately cook the brakes to see if it works. Not only can this cause extreme thermal shock to propagate cracks (new rotors are susceptible to thermal shock), it also can cause "warped" rotors. It only takes a few minutes to break in the pad properly. I recommend 5 stops from 45-50 mph at moderately high pedal pressure, but don't come to a complete stop between each application. Then drive around and let the brakes cool down and do 3 stops at light to moderate pedal pressure, letting the brakes cool between each application."
 

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If you have a stock wheel on a 2012 there is no way a 2014 touring rotor will fit. For guys who warp a lot of rotors I usually sell the Galfer Wave full floaters and have not had any issues as of yet.

$275 each for these so $550 for both.

Out of stock but I have a few on order.

Another option is the EBC 5 spoke floater. They are $180 each so $360 for both.


Drew
 

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I never knew about the proper way to break in new pads and rotors, until i started having some issues. The dealer doesnt tell you how to properly break in the brakes and pads after you've purchased a new bike. So here is a little guide i found and explanation:

"Many people complain about brake pulsation and warped rotors. This guide is meant to help understand why you get brake judder and what you can do to prevent it.
Brake judder is primarily caused by the formation of hard nodules in the iron. Engineers call these nodules heat spots. When I measure warped rotors, I find that the radial runout as referenced to the wheel mounting surface is in spec. So the term "warped" rotor may not be an accurate description of the problem. However, my dial indicator shows elevated bumps from heat spots on the rotor surface. As the rotor passes under the pad, these spots cause brake judder, i.e. pulsating brakes. It only takes a spot .001 inches above the rotor surface to feel brake judder.
Pulsating brakes start with a localized zone of high temperature in the rotor. The most common cause is uneven friction deposition on the rotor. At colder operating temperatures (less than 400 degrees), brake pads work with abrasive friction, just like sandpaper on wood. At higher temperatures, brake pads transfer a thin layer of material to the iron rotor surface. As the rotor heats up, the primary friction force changes from abrasive friction to adherent friction, i.e. pad material is applied to the rotor and simultaneously sheared and the broken chemical bonds cause a resistant friction force. Most racing pads work using adherent friction, which explains why racing pads don't really stop well under cold conditions or normal street driving.
An example of an uneven friction deposit is pad resin glazing. If you get your rotors hot, the resin from the pad will liquify and glaze on the rotor surface. As the pads rub on the elevated glazed surface, it gets a lot hotter, and the heat is localized in just one area of the rotor. When the temperature exceeds 1150F, the cell structure of the iron changes into hard brittle spots called cementite. These heat spots don't wear down like the normal iron material surrounding it. So the spots become elevated above the rotor surface, and you start to feel brake pulsation. You can try to turn down the rotor, but the cementite nodule is often deeper than the cut, so the brake pulsation just comes back after a few weeks. Here are some ways to prevent the problem:

  1. Use drilled rotors to keep the temperature below the point where heat spots start to form. Drilled rotors also prevent pad glazing as shown in SAE paper 2006-01-0691.
  2. Don't clamp down on the brakes after a hot stop. If the rotor is hot and you clamp down on the brake, you will deposit friction from the pad to the rotor in just one spot. The elevated friction area will get hotter than other parts of the rotor and start the cycle that produces cementite nodules. I try to roll the car a little after a hot stop so the pad does not rest in just one place.
  3. Break in your new pads properly to initiate a uniform friction layer on the rotors. Some people install new drilled rotors and pads and immediately cook the brakes to see if it works. Not only can this cause extreme thermal shock to propagate cracks (new rotors are susceptible to thermal shock), it also can cause "warped" rotors. It only takes a few minutes to break in the pad properly. I recommend 5 stops from 45-50 mph at moderately high pedal pressure, but don't come to a complete stop between each application. Then drive around and let the brakes cool down and do 3 stops at light to moderate pedal pressure, letting the brakes cool between each application."
This.

Also, Clean your brakes regularly. See instructions on the Lyndall site. Sticky pistons will also cause warping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hogpro, I have 2014 wheels and rotors on my 2012 ultra. I'll take a look at the ones you listed.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ded HD, that's good info. I always break in new pads and rotors that way, either on cars or bikes. And this is the only vehicle I've had a problem with after so few miles. The first time this happened it was only one of the front rotors. I haven't had a chance to put a dial indicator on these yet but I'd be willing to bet it's only one that's out of spec. I think the issue is low bid parts from the MoCo.
 

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I never knew about the proper way to break in new pads and rotors, until i started having some issues. The dealer doesnt tell you how to properly break in the brakes and pads after you've purchased a new bike. So here is a little guide i found and explanation:

"Many people complain about brake pulsation and warped rotors. This guide is meant to help understand why you get brake judder and what you can do to prevent it.
Brake judder is primarily caused by the formation of hard nodules in the iron. Engineers call these nodules heat spots. When I measure warped rotors, I find that the radial runout as referenced to the wheel mounting surface is in spec. So the term "warped" rotor may not be an accurate description of the problem. However, my dial indicator shows elevated bumps from heat spots on the rotor surface. As the rotor passes under the pad, these spots cause brake judder, i.e. pulsating brakes. It only takes a spot .001 inches above the rotor surface to feel brake judder.
Pulsating brakes start with a localized zone of high temperature in the rotor. The most common cause is uneven friction deposition on the rotor. At colder operating temperatures (less than 400 degrees), brake pads work with abrasive friction, just like sandpaper on wood. At higher temperatures, brake pads transfer a thin layer of material to the iron rotor surface. As the rotor heats up, the primary friction force changes from abrasive friction to adherent friction, i.e. pad material is applied to the rotor and simultaneously sheared and the broken chemical bonds cause a resistant friction force. Most racing pads work using adherent friction, which explains why racing pads don't really stop well under cold conditions or normal street driving.
An example of an uneven friction deposit is pad resin glazing. If you get your rotors hot, the resin from the pad will liquify and glaze on the rotor surface. As the pads rub on the elevated glazed surface, it gets a lot hotter, and the heat is localized in just one area of the rotor. When the temperature exceeds 1150F, the cell structure of the iron changes into hard brittle spots called cementite. These heat spots don't wear down like the normal iron material surrounding it. So the spots become elevated above the rotor surface, and you start to feel brake pulsation. You can try to turn down the rotor, but the cementite nodule is often deeper than the cut, so the brake pulsation just comes back after a few weeks. Here are some ways to prevent the problem:

  1. Use drilled rotors to keep the temperature below the point where heat spots start to form. Drilled rotors also prevent pad glazing as shown in SAE paper 2006-01-0691.
  2. Don't clamp down on the brakes after a hot stop. If the rotor is hot and you clamp down on the brake, you will deposit friction from the pad to the rotor in just one spot. The elevated friction area will get hotter than other parts of the rotor and start the cycle that produces cementite nodules. I try to roll the car a little after a hot stop so the pad does not rest in just one place.
  3. Break in your new pads properly to initiate a uniform friction layer on the rotors. Some people install new drilled rotors and pads and immediately cook the brakes to see if it works. Not only can this cause extreme thermal shock to propagate cracks (new rotors are susceptible to thermal shock), it also can cause "warped" rotors. It only takes a few minutes to break in the pad properly. I recommend 5 stops from 45-50 mph at moderately high pedal pressure, but don't come to a complete stop between each application. Then drive around and let the brakes cool down and do 3 stops at light to moderate pedal pressure, letting the brakes cool between each application."
This.

Also, Clean your brakes regularly. See instructions on the Lyndall site. Sticky pistons will also cause warping.
 

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Hogpro, I have 2014 wheels and rotors on my 2012 ultra. I'll take a look at the ones you listed.

Thanks
For your 2014 rims I have a s different Galfer rotor for you. It is a perimeter style rotor with the wave design on the outside. Those are $150 each so $300 for the set. On the shelf ready to ship. Here is a pic.


And on the wheels you have.


Call the shop to order (818)886-6545

Drew
 

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I put Harley floating rotors on my bike 4 years ago and they are still working great. I only paid $130 each for them, if I need some now I would just call PC Pain and get a price.
 

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If you have a stock wheel on a 2012 there is no way a 2014 touring rotor will fit. For guys who warp a lot of rotors I usually sell the Galfer Wave full floaters and have not had any issues as of yet.

$275 each for these so $550 for both.

Out of stock but I have a few on order.

Drew
I use the Galfers on my Busa for years. Have done aggressive stops from 3 digits and they never warped :wink:

My stock rotors were shot from Sharkweek 4. Once I saw these offered by Drew late last year I jumped on it. . I have about 8k on them now with year no issues.
 
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