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Tried to search for it, but can't find anything. Two questions please.



I have a Moto 600.4 with four 4 ohm speakers. Per the manual, I wired (with the harness) two inputs and four outputs. The harness takes the output to the front speakers and uses that for input 1&2 to the amp. When I did this, I lost the front/rear fader function. The fader is still there, but front is the only thing that works. What I'm wondering is...if I tap the rear speaker outputs from the radio and wire them to the 3rd and 4th input and switch the amp input from 2 channel to 4 channel, would that give me the use of the fader again?​



and



As far at the speed volume setting, can I use it? I’ve blown one set because the volume was ok until the speed volume increased. Ended up being too much for the set I had installed. Based on that, I understand it can potentially boost the volume beyond what the speaker can handle. Other than the volume increasing to the speaker, is there anything that can damage the speaker? If the increase is within the normal RMS of the speaker, would it be ok to still use it with the Moto 600.4?​



Thanks in advance for any and all responses!!
 

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Hey Jeaves,

I can't speak to the wiring questions, but as for the AVC the general recommendation is to turn it off, specifically for the reasons you're already pondering. If you choose to use it, I'd recommend using it sparingly (i.e. the lowest setting above off).
 

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Do you have the manual for the amp did you email Arc audio?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Hey Jeaves,

I can't speak to the wiring questions, but as for the AVC the general recommendation is to turn it off, specifically for the reasons you're already pondering. If you choose to use it, I'd recommend using it sparingly (i.e. the lowest setting above off).
I guess the question would be how much the speed volume increases. As long as that is within the speaker rating, I guess it would be ok. Without that info though, I can see where it would be dangerous. I'm actually amazed that I miss it so much. It was really nice to not have to turn it down at red lights.
 

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Do you have the manual for the amp did you email Arc audio?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
I do have the manual, but it only covers a two input wiring. There are no four input wiring diagrams anywhere in the manual. The maintain seems to be rather lacking on a more complex system or something less than standard.

I emailed Arc about 3 weeks ago. I just got the initial reply but it didn't help much. I sent a reply but it appears they run quite a bit behind.
 

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The problem as I understand it in regards to the AVC, is that it is not a linear rise in voltage as speed increases.

In other words lets say you have the AVC on and it is putting out 1 volt. You increase speed to the next threshold and instead of it jumping to 1.25 volts it actually jumps to 4.5 volts. (These are arbitrary numbers used only to show the non-linearity thay are not actuall numbers). It wont take long before you are stressing everthing in the system, amp speakers etc, and then BOOM! (sorry I couldnt resist)

While I think I understand why the MOCO did this, I mean the headunit only puts out 25 watts/channel, so as speed increases you still want to be able to hear the music on your 25k plus scoot, right? So rather than, I dont know, put a better windshield on it, or actually put some decent audio in it, they decided to just add voltage. Its not a big deal with just the head unit, I had the volume maxed out when I first got mine and while muddled and with a little distortion, no harm was done. Of course, I still couldnt hear it very well at highway speeds, at which point the upgrades began.

So now that we actually have some decent power going to the speakers, that jump in voltage, becomes exponentialy worse and BOOM!(yup, I did it again) blown speakers.

Word on the street is that a couple of the really high end aftermarket amps really flatten out the voltage spike, I think its just easier to turn off the AVC.


Hope this cleared things up a bit, and my memory on the subject isnt completely gone, yet.


Mike
 

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If you are only using 2 inputs, then you will not have the ability to fade. (as it is only seeing an input from the front 2 channels). Also, the AVC should be turned off, as per the previous comment. You will run the risk of blowing your speakers. I have the Arc Audio 600.4 as well as the Arc Audio PSM Digital Signal Processor.
 

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The problem as I understand it in regards to the AVC, is that it is not a linear rise in voltage as speed increases.
That summed it up beautifully. For AMPS that have adjustable gain control it's important that the gain is properly adjusted. Remember that the gain setting isn't a volume control (the higher the gain the louder the speakers), but is supposed to be used to match the input sensitivity of the AMP to the signal that is coming from the stereo. It's impossible to properly set the gains on an AMP if the input signal constantly varies from 1v to 4v (or whatever the output voltage from the stereo actually is).

Tried to search for it, but can't find anything.

I have a Moto 600.4 with four 4 ohm speakers. Per the manual, I wired (with the harness) two inputs and four outputs. The harness takes the output to the front speakers and uses that for input 1&2 to the amp. When I did this, I lost the front/rear fader function. The fader is still there, but front is the only thing that works. What I'm wondering is...if I tap the rear speaker outputs from the radio and wire them to the 3rd and 4th input and switch the amp input from 2 channel to 4 channel, would that give me the use of the fader again?
I went and took a look at the wiring diagram for the Moto 600.4
As mentioned in a previous post the only way to get fade control from the stereo is if you split the front and rear channels using the speaker level inputs.

Your front speaker wires (coming from the stereo) connect to speaker level inputs on the AMP - Channel 1 and Channel 2
Your rear speaker wires (coming from the stereo) connect to speaker level inputs on the AMP - Channel 3 and Channel 4

Make sure that you're got the left / right channel connections correct and make sure that you've got the polarity (+/-) correct as well. See attached diagram.
 

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