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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, starting this thread to keep a log of my 1st attempt to do a CAM swap. I will be recording videos throughout the whole process, and use this to ask questions as I go along... hopefully it will be a good document for the next person attempting the same, and for me to take my time and ask questions as I go along.

Bike: Road Glide CVO 2022
CAM: WM8-22XD kit with pushrods and lifters
Exhaust: Jackpot Riot 2-1 Shorty
Tune: Power Vision PV4

I have now at home the CAM kit, and all the tools except the CAM tool which I should be getting next week from FM. I am hoping to start the work on next week, depending on the weather.

I have the service manual for Touring 2021, so the torque specs and order of torque should be the same.

Tools I have documented I will need for the job, please comment if I am missing anything. The tools in green I already have, the others I ordered and will be getting throughout the week.

So, for my first CAM job I would be spending less than $400 for tools + cost of CAM kit.... next ones after that should cost me less than $200 + CAM kit...pretty much oil, lube, acetone, washers, and Loctite... (not bad at all).

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I will assume that the cam kit is the cam with the cam bearing and all supporting gaskets and seals. If yes then you made a pretty good list. You might want to put a little more oomph into the primary with some heavier springs for some piece of mind. I would have to guess that the CVO's come with the same 1100 newton springs as the rest of the lineup so upgrading a level to the SE 1200 springs might be a good supporting idea.
Also get a cam gear shim kit from Harley and a good straight edge as this will have to be checked and addressed if there is a .010" or more difference from one gear to the other.

This is all that comes to mind at the minute.
 

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A thread chase set is mandatory for me. Every bolt, nut and threaded hole got its threads cleaned before reassembly. It helps to remove the old thread lock compound, and that makes for MUCH easier and accurate torquing.

Instead of an electric screwdriver I used a Milwaukee M12 ratchet (3/8"). A lot faster and easier to use with sockets, adapters and so on. I also used it to quickly do my thread chase work and save lots of hand twisting.

I found myself using my set of SAE ratcheting wrenches a lot more than simple open/box wrenches. That ratcheting box end is super handy in tight places.

Assume you're staying with the oem lifter cuffs. Otherwise a heat gun to help get cuff bolts loose.

A flexible magnet is a good tool to have on standby just in case.

A can of air duster is doggone handy right there close at hand. Faster and much easier than having to go to the compressor to clean particles off a part.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found a Sharpie (traditional black) less than ideal and went with a paint pen, in white.
Are thinking about checking your crankshaft run-out? (I've heard it said it's only necessary when going to gear-drive cams)

best wishes.
thanks buddy…spot on, I got a new set oil based paint in white and yellow…
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will assume that the cam kit is the cam with the cam bearing and all supporting gaskets and seals. If yes then you made a pretty good list. You might want to put a little more oomph into the primary with some heavier springs for some piece of mind. I would have to guess that the CVO's come with the same 1100 newton springs as the rest of the lineup so upgrading a level to the SE 1200 springs might be a good supporting idea.
Also get a cam gear shim kit from Harley and a good straight edge as this will have to be checked and addressed if there is a .010" or more difference from one gear to the other.

This is all that comes to mind at the minute.
Yeah, I got the straight edges and gauges…have a few of them for my guitars ✌

I will do some research on the springs, thanks for the heads up.
 

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O
Brake clean the parts and apply the correct loctite for the application. I've never seen a call out for primer in the manuals. It depends greatly on the types of metals in use that the primer is required.
PVC is the only time I’ve used primer on glue. Can’t say I’ve seen loc tite brand
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
O

PVC is the only time I’ve used primer on glue. Can’t say I’ve seen loc tite brand
"WHY USE A PRIMER?
1. Primers activate inactive surfaces which are not required with primerless products.
2. Primers speed cure times for faster return to service.
3. Primers speed curing through larger gaps and deep threads.
4. Primers substantially speed cure times on cold parts.
5. Primers act as cleaning agents.

Active surfaces (primer is optional): Brass, copper, bronze, iron, soft steel, nickel. Inactive surfaces (primer is required): Pure Aluminum, stainless steel, magnesium, zinc, black oxide, cadmium, titanium, others."


I am geek man :)
 

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Grab you a couple of large paper clips and a few rubber bands to hold your push rod covers up out of the way while you adjust your push rod nuts.
Bend the paper clips so you have fish hooks on both sides. 😉
 

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2021 RG special in Snake Venom
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I have the motion pro push rod tube tool and it makes real quick work putting the tube clip in, not mandatory though. If you are using the S&S tubes, they have a slot for a screwdriver so the tool isnt needed.
 
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2020 Road Glide Special
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I think it's on your list, but you'll want a thrust washer kit (shims) to align the cam/crank sprockets with flat blade. Specs are in your manual, I think it's like .010.

At least a 18 pack of Busch Light.
 

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A thread chase set is mandatory for me. Every bolt, nut and threaded hole got its threads cleaned before reassembly. It helps to remove the old thread lock compound, and that makes for MUCH easier and accurate torquing.

Instead of an electric screwdriver I used a Milwaukee M12 ratchet (3/8"). A lot faster and easier to use with sockets, adapters and so on. I also used it to quickly do my thread chase work and save lots of hand twisting.

I found myself using my set of SAE ratcheting wrenches a lot more than simple open/box wrenches. That ratcheting box end is super handy in tight places.

Assume you're staying with the oem lifter cuffs. Otherwise a heat gun to help get cuff bolts loose.

A flexible magnet is a good tool to have on standby just in case.

A can of air duster is doggone handy right there close at hand. Faster and much easier than having to go to the compressor to clean particles off a part.

Good luck!
Solid point with the M12!
buy quality electric tools. I bought a kobolt 24v from lows for my ski build. Used it have through disassembly. Gave it to a friend for a 30 pack and bought the m12 3/8.
Night and day. More finesse and access.
 

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If you strip a hex bolt try tapping a slightly larger torx socket into it and vice versa with a hex socket tapped into a torx bolt. Use a brass hammer when tapping on the socket so you are not mushrooming it. This is how I deal with that kind of issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you strip a hex bolt try tapping a slightly larger torx socket into it and vice versa with a hex socket tapped into a torx bolt. Use a brass hammer when tapping on the socket so you are not mushrooming it. This is how I deal with that kind of issue.
Tried that and didn’t work…made worse….trying to make a way for a screwdriver…


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