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Discussion Starter #1
11 Ultra, stock. Slip ons and screaming eagle plugs/wires but no upgrades. 61,500 miles.

Hopped on the bike yesterday to go pick up some food and she was spitting and sputtering horribly under load. Was pretty low on gas, had planned on filling her up on the way. It idles and revs just fine, unless you are under load trying to accelerate. Limped her to the gas station, she took almost 5 gallons so I really don't think it was having trouble picking up fuel.

Filled her up, same issues. She idles just fine, and if in neutral or clutch in it revs with no issues. When you try to take off she spits and sputters. WIll hold speed ok, starts sputtering on the slightest incline or attempt to accelerate.

I'm about 500 miles from the next fluid change. Checked my air filter, it was nasty so put a new one on. Same issue. I have new plugs I was going to do at this change, so went ahead and pulled em. Front looks fine, rear was caked and white, it scraped off. Installed new plugs and checked the wires, no visible issue on the wires. Same issue. It spits and sputters, I really have to feather the clutch/throttle to keep it from dying. Pull the clutch in and she purrs like a kitten. Roll on the throttle in neutral or with the clutch in and she roars.

What do I need to check next? Fuel filter? I've done some research and came across some stories of a temperature sensor, but the symptoms aren't quite the same. Any advice or direction on what to look at is very much appreciated.
 

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I had similar symptoms after getting some bad gas in New Mexico a few years back. Idled was not as smooth as usual, but would rev up OK with no load - soon as I tried to put a load on it, everything would go to shit. I used some iso-Heet for the next three fill ups before it cleared up completely with performance getting better at each fill up. hopefully it is something easy that is more pain in the ass than pain in the wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had similar symptoms after getting some bad gas in New Mexico a few years back. Idled was not as smooth as usual, but would rev up OK with no load - soon as I tried to put a load on it, everything would go to shit. I used some iso-Heet for the next three fill ups before it cleared up completely with performance getting better at each fill up. hopefully it is something easy that is more pain in the ass than pain in the wallet.
Thank you. I run sea foam through it every 3rd or 4th tank. Unfortunately it isn't rideable right now. I can try to drain the gas and start over I guess.
 

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11 Ultra, stock. Slip ons and screaming eagle plugs/wires but no upgrades. 61,500 miles.

Hopped on the bike yesterday to go pick up some food and she was spitting and sputtering horribly under load. Was pretty low on gas, had planned on filling her up on the way. It idles and revs just fine, unless you are under load trying to accelerate. Limped her to the gas station, she took almost 5 gallons so I really don't think it was having trouble picking up fuel.

Filled her up, same issues. She idles just fine, and if in neutral or clutch in it revs with no issues. When you try to take off she spits and sputters. WIll hold speed ok, starts sputtering on the slightest incline or attempt to accelerate.

I'm about 500 miles from the next fluid change. Checked my air filter, it was nasty so put a new one on. Same issue. I have new plugs I was going to do at this change, so went ahead and pulled em. Front looks fine, rear was caked and white, it scraped off. Installed new plugs and checked the wires, no visible issue on the wires. Same issue. It spits and sputters, I really have to feather the clutch/throttle to keep it from dying. Pull the clutch in and she purrs like a kitten. Roll on the throttle in neutral or with the clutch in and she roars.

What do I need to check next? Fuel filter? I've done some research and came across some stories of a temperature sensor, but the symptoms aren't quite the same. Any advice or direction on what to look at is very much appreciated.
I had similar symptoms on my 2010 at around the same mileage. The problem was a crack in the fuel filter housing. Have your dealer check your fuel line pressure; this is very easy to do. They disconnect your fuel line and then hook-up a pressure gauge.
.
 

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I was gonna guess cam position sensor, but you have no codes ( mine went).

sounds text book fuel filter fuel related.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for the responses. I am going to try and change the fuel filter tomorrow night. Dealers aren't open near me until tomorrow, hopefully they have it in stock.

I've read through the manual and watched a couple of videos online and feel confident it is a job I can handle. Fingers crossed it is the issue.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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Check the fuel pressure, and take a sample, and then check the spark voltage.

Lack of fuel or a high resistance secondary voltage leak can both cause it to run poorly under load.

Other things can too, but will generally set a fault code.
 

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Thank you all for the responses. I am going to try and change the fuel filter tomorrow night. Dealers aren't open near me until tomorrow, hopefully they have it in stock.

I've read through the manual and watched a couple of videos online and feel confident it is a job I can handle. Fingers crossed it is the issue.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I went through the cracked filter housing on my 10 a few years back. One of the things I noticed was that if I looked to the right inside the tank while turning the ignition on, I could see a stream of fuel squirting from somewhere (i didn't know at the time) onto the surface of the fuel in the tank. It was coming out of the crack in the filter. After replacing the housing it quit doing it.



So that might be worth a shot as a tool free - roadside class - verification test of the cracked housing theory.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Check the fuel pressure, and take a sample, and then check the spark voltage.

Lack of fuel or a high resistance secondary voltage leak can both cause it to run poorly under load.

Other things can too, but will generally set a fault code.
I assume you need a gauge of some sort to test the fuel pressure. Are the instructions in the service manual? Same question about instructions for the high resistance secondary......

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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I assume you need a gauge of some sort to test the fuel pressure. Are the instructions in the service manual? Same question about instructions for the high resistance secondary......

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Ah, well......Yes you do need a tool to check the fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gauge. You'll also need a VOM to check the electrical side of it.

And you do need some sort of tool to check secondary ignition. You can make one or you can buy adjustable ones, they even have inductive meters that you just lay against the cable. This should actually already be within your skillset before taking something like this on.

I gather you don't have a service manual? If not, getting one should be the first thing you do. Actually get two. The basic service manual and the electrical diagnostic manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ah, well......Yes you do need a tool to check the fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gauge. You'll also need a VOM to check the electrical side of it.



And you do need some sort of tool to check secondary ignition. You can make one or you can buy adjustable ones, they even have inductive meters that you just lay against the cable. This should actually already be within your skillset before taking something like this on.



I gather you don't have a service manual? If not, getting one should be the first thing you do. Actually get two. The basic service manual and the electrical diagnostic manual.
I do have the service manual, I asked the question when I was away from home. I looked up the pressure check instructions. Thank you for the input.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
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