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Discussion Starter #1
I rebuilt the top end on the bike this spring and in the process I repaired 3 pulled cylinder studs on the pushrod side of the engine.
I been noticing that the bike was running a bit odd on my way back from San Diego so I started to check thing out and low and behold I have another pulled cylinder stud on the front cylinder. The pulled cylinder stud is the stud to the rear of the spark plug.
I never had any problems with the bike until I had that asshole builder put in the stage IV build in the bike in the spring of 2013.
When I repaired the pulled cylinder studs and did the new top end this spring I paid special attention to the cylinder head torque proceedure and specs and after torquing the heads to specs I let the bike sit overnight and rechecked the head bolts the next morning, all the head bolts held and maintained the torque.
The only thing that hasn't had any R&R on the bike is the lower end and I am wondering if there is a problem with the crankshaft which would result in pulled cylinder studs.
The only reason I didn't repair/replace all the cylinder studs was because the supplier of the custom cylinder studs (3/16x16 TPI top of stud, 7/16x14 TPI bottom of stud) only had 4 studs available so I only repaired the pulled studs but I did check the studs that I didn't repair without pulling them out of the lower case and they did seem good.
I am going to tear down the top end again and replace all the cylinder studs this time (I found another source for the custom cylinder studs) and I am debating on pulling the engine out and sending the lower end out and having the crankshaft inspected and the crankpin welded and have the Timken bearing upgrade done at the same time.
If I just repair the cylinder studs the bike will only be down for a few days after I get all the parts, if I send out the lower end the bike will be down for 4 to 6 weeks.
 

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Since you like a lot of ponies. Now might be the time to put a crate S&S 124 in.
 

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My friend had similar issue with a 106"engine he put in his 09' RG. The builder screwed up and studs started pulling. Fix after fix didn't do it. He eventually put an SE 120" in a no more issues.
 

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Gosh....... you've had enough problems with that bike, I know if it were me, that bike would've been gone awhile ago. I hope you finally get things straight. If you were here in Florida, I have an engine I could give you a great price on.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Good luck. Your frustration level has to be thru the roof. I've been there myself. I kept after it and finally my issue was over.
 

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I'm a fan of having the crank welded and Timken bearing installed if your adding a fair amount of HP & TQ. I'm sure it will be cheaper to have the bottom end worked, and have the studs fixed than adding a 124".
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am not a real big fan of big HP but I like good low end and midrange torque.
With the stage IV build I only got 106 HP and 106 torque according to the last dyno run.
With the 103BB in the bike with the SE 255 cams I got 90 HP and 107 torque according to the dyno.
I never had the last build dynoed so I don't know what the bike was doing but if I just guessed at it I would say it would be just about the same as the 103BB with the SE255 cams because the only difference between the 1st and 3rd build was I used the Woods TW 222 cams.
The thing is the bike never produced anything over 110 ft lbs of torque which isn't a big build by any means so why are the cylinder studs pulling? There has to be a reason the cylinder studs are pulling.
There are plenty of big build bikes that put out big HP and torque numbers that have no problem with the cylinder studs.
That is why I am looking at the crank being the issue because it doesn't make any sense why 2 different top end builds would pull the cylinder studs.
 

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You could try sputh eng. for the stud's I know he does make some oversize studs. I can't see the crank being a problem, more an issue of someone over tightened the cylinder studs at one time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You could try sputh eng. for the stud's I know he does make some oversize studs. I can't see the crank being a problem, more an issue of someone over tightened the cylinder studs at one time.
I got the last 4 cylinder studs Sputhe had when I did the repair the first time, I emailed him to see if he had any more made but I am still waiting for a reply.
Trask performance makes cylinder studs to do the repair but I haven't been able to get a hold of anyone there yet.
 

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I am not a real big fan of big HP but I like good low end and midrange torque.
With the stage IV build I only got 106 HP and 106 torque according to the last dyno run.
With the 103BB in the bike with the SE 255 cams I got 90 HP and 107 torque according to the dyno.
I never had the last build dynoed so I don't know what the bike was doing but if I just guessed at it I would say it would be just about the same as the 103BB with the SE255 cams because the only difference between the 1st and 3rd build was I used the Woods TW 222 cams.
The thing is the bike never produced anything over 110 ft lbs of torque which isn't a big build by any means so why are the cylinder studs pulling? There has to be a reason the cylinder studs are pulling.
There are plenty of big build bikes that put out big HP and torque numbers that have no problem with the cylinder studs.
That is why I am looking at the crank being the issue because it doesn't make any sense why 2 different top end builds would pull the cylinder studs.
A S&S 111 then , might be better suited. :D Run all the costs of rebuild Vs. Crate and selling your old motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A S&S 111 then , might be better suited. :D Run all the costs of rebuild Vs. Crate and selling your old motor.
Thats what I am doing weighing in the cost, unfortunately my DR and Hospital bill are all coming in from my recent heart surgery and it will take me a few months to pay them people off. So the cost of a new engine is pretty much out for right now.
My cheapest option is just to take down the top end again and R&R all of the remaining cylinder studs. I would only have to get 4 more cylinder studs and I already have all the rest of the parts and gaskets including new head gaskets.
Option 2 is buying a low mileage used 103 engine.
Option 3 is buying a brand new short block directly from Harley which has its advantages because it comes with new crankcases, crankshaft, crank bearings, cam bearings, oil pump, cam plate, crankshaft and camshaft timing gears and chains, inner and outer cam chain tensioners and gaskets. I would still have to use my top end, cams, lifters and pushrods.
Option 4 is to send the lower end out and have the cases repaired for the cylinder studs and have the crank inspected and the crankpin welded and the crank balanced and have the Timken bearing upgrade.
The cost of options 2, 3 & 4 are my more expensive fixes and each option has advantages and disadvantages.
I can alway just do option 1 and roll the dice hoping for the best and if it doesn't work out the other option are still available.
 

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There's a 103 motor for sale in the parts for sale on this forum.
 

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If I recall, we've only used a different stud on 3 occasions, upon customer request.
The OE stud is what we use in our day in/day out engine building here.:)
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The reason I use the custom cylinder studs isn't because I am putting in a big build it is because all I have to do is drill and tap the lower case to accept the 7/16 x 14 TPI which is what the custom cylinder studs are on one end.
The reason behind this is if the studs did pull again than I can drill and tap the lower case to accept the Timesert and I can use the OEM cylinder studs.
Doing it this way I got 2 shots at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Why do you think the crank is responsible for the pulled studs?
It is just a theory but with the pressed on cranks the flywheel could twist on the crankpin, even though it may only be a few thousandths of an inch it could throw the timing off resulting in a bad ignition tune because the crank positioning sensor would not be reading the cranks position correctly. This situation would also cause premature crank bearing wear and increased crankshaft run out.
A timing problem could be severe enough to cause pre ignition problems which would result in pulled cylinder studs over time.
 
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