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Discussion Starter #1
My apologies, as I try to explain what is happening, so please bare with me.

when I am riding and the bike is cold, no problems everything is just dandy, but I noticed that once the bike is up to temp by bike has trouble revving above 3000rpms, regardless of gear...for example. stopped at a red light bike up at temp, shift into first, my friction zone is at the very end of letting the lever out. not only that but as I roll on the throttle the engine revs but its not transferred to the wheel(slipping clutch???), the bike catches and starts to move but the wrist inputs don't match the revenging of the engine, the tach needle bounces all over the place, the foot shifter feels solid and has a definite clunk into gear but as I said nothing is transferred to the wheel...

I hope I am explaining this clearly, the bike is a 2012 FLTRX stage 4, has a Harley hydraulic clutch conversion, with about 30000 miles, the engine sounds fine... im thinking maybe the clutch pack???

i checked for codes, had a historical code of U1097 ""loss of speedometer serial data EFI" but i don't think that's it, i didn't get a code notification while riding, but who knows, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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My apologies, as I try to explain what is happening, so please bare with me.

when I am riding and the bike is cold, no problems everything is just dandy, but I noticed that once the bike is up to temp by bike has trouble revving above 3000rpms, regardless of gear...for example. stopped at a red light bike up at temp, shift into first, my friction zone is at the very end of letting the lever out. not only that but as I roll on the throttle the engine revs but its not transferred to the wheel(slipping clutch???), the bike catches and starts to move but the wrist inputs don't match the revenging of the engine, the tach needle bounces all over the place, the foot shifter feels solid and has a definite clunk into gear but as I said nothing is transferred to the wheel...

I hope I am explaining this clearly, the bike is a 2012 FLTRX stage 4, has a Harley hydraulic clutch conversion, with about 30000 miles, the engine sounds fine... im thinking maybe the clutch pack???

i checked for codes, had a historical code of U1097 ""loss of speedometer serial data EFI" but i don't think that's it, i didn't get a code notification while riding, but who knows, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Adjust the clutch pack in the primary.
 

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Hmmm. Not sure about your conversion kit, but if it's what they're putting on the later model bikes, from what I'm reading there is no adjustment for the newer Harley hydraulic clutch packs. My bike is too new, and I haven't delved that far into it yet, so can't say. The newer bikes have a recall, but it's opposite of the problem you're describing, and that is that the clutch won't disengage, where it sounds like your problem is that the clutch won't engage. My first thought was the same as Big_Gary, that you had some slipping going on in the clutch pack. You've got the primary cover off, and I don't want to insult your intelligence, so I'll assume you checked that you have the correct level of clean fluid in your primary. From the picture, it looks like you're running the stock clutch pack, with the clam style damper spring. The Screaming Eagle and similar after market assemblies have adjustable coil springs. I'm just wondering if maybe with the Stage 4 kit, you've got some premature clutch failure going on. Pull the plug on your primary and see if you don't have a load of debris on the magnet. Hopefully one of the "wrenches" on the forum will kick in an answer for you. To me, it sounds like a clutch issue though. Any modifications to the bike just prior to the problem, did you notice it getting progressively worse, or did it just "pop up"? Keep us posted if you find a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm. Not sure about your conversion kit, but if it's what they're putting on the later model bikes, from what I'm reading there is no adjustment for the newer Harley hydraulic clutch packs. My bike is too new, and I haven't delved that far into it yet, so can't say. The newer bikes have a recall, but it's opposite of the problem you're describing, and that is that the clutch won't disengage, where it sounds like your problem is that the clutch won't engage. My first thought was the same as Big_Gary, that you had some slipping going on in the clutch pack. You've got the primary cover off, and I don't want to insult your intelligence, so I'll assume you checked that you have the correct level of clean fluid in your primary. If you feel up to it, change the fluid, and check the plug to see if it's covered in debris. Maybe with the Stage 4 kit, you've been a little harder on the clutch, and you've got some premature clutch failure. Hopefully one of the "wrenches" on the forum will kick in an answer for you. To me, it sounds like a clutch issue though. Did you do anything to the bike prior to the problem, did you notice it getting progressively worse, or did it just "pop up" on you? Keep us posted if you find a solution.
Yup did all the "regular" checks, checked fluid in the primary, clean(ish) and at the proper level... Even checked the hydraulic
Reservoir to make sure it's at the proper levels, no insult taken (you never know I might have missed something)

Seemed to start after the hydraulic clutch was installed... One guy I spoke to mentioned that there is the possibility that due to the fact that hydraulic clutches don't need/ have the adjustment of a cable clutch, my clutch pack may just be worn, to the point that the hydraulic arm can't engage it, where as with a cable clutch you could tighten up the cable to make up for the wear... Just a thought, although it makes sense to an amateur mechanic like myself...
 

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If you are referring to the standard clutch adjustment you would make with a cable clutch... The hydraulic clutch doesn't have it.
Is there another adjustment procedure for the clutch pack (on a hydraulic clutch)?
Yup ,no adjustment on the newer hydraulic clutch packs. I assumed you just had the cable assist hydraulic lever.
Is the hydraulic level full. I heard if it's just a little low it can cause slippage.
 

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Maybe try and bleed the hydraulic clutch system and see if that helps. I found by mistake that the hydraulic clutch system does not like to be even the slightest bit low on fluid.
Lil Chief
 

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when you say trouble revving above 3000rpm do you mean that your clutch is slipping above that threshold, or do you mean your engine won't rev that high? if the former, same problem. if the latter, then you have 2 problems that you need to deal with.
 

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Don't nosht about HD hydraulic clutches,
Large displacement Metrics; pressure plate suspect...many have
after- six spring Al billet, cures it
or you may have the littlest amount of air in the Slave

The rod separates under pressure the plates from stell....
The pressure plate, when clutch lever released makes a positive pack, transferin power, right

If pack not worn, lack of pressure causes slip
I thinks the rod has to released, lever in, when replacing plate for it to to compress the pack

Either way it's an internal fix

Air in the Slave will also not allow full extention, like bakes
 

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Not sure I'm reading this right but, did you say you replaced the oem clutch system on your '12 from an adjustable cable actuated to a hydraulic actuated and didn't bother to change out the friction plates and steels even though at the same time you upgraded to a stage 4 power increase? So your running an upgraded power plant on a worn clutch pack and wonder why it's slipping? May I ask why you went with the hydraulic, non-adjustable clutch without upgrading the clutch pack? I'm thinking you have possibly glazed a few of the friction disks and it is causing the clutch to slip. the high performance clutch pack from HD is only $179. with possible discounts from Pc pAin here on the forum (John @ horny toad hd). probably the cheapest and easiest fix after verifying that there is no air in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys I appreciate all the help,

I will double check the clutch master cylinder levels and bleed it as well just to make sure...

It's hard to describe, the engine revs over 3000 just that the corisponding tire to pavement (acceleration) isn't there... Then it is there then it isn't... I can get up to speed but it takes a while.... But the engine sounds fine, no knocking pinging or other bad noises, exhaust sounds good... Just no get up and go...

After the bike cools and I go around the block, everything is great no problem accelerating up thru the gears to 6, no issues making quick pulls or anything but once the bike gets warmed up, it gets all wonky again....

I do have a friend who's a Harley tech comin by tomorrow to take a look. Hopefully he see something I don't...

Again thanks for all the advice
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure I'm reading this right but, did you say you replaced the oem clutch system on your '12 from an adjustable cable actuated to a hydraulic actuated and didn't bother to change out the friction plates and steels even though at the same time you upgraded to a stage 4 power increase? So your running an upgraded power plant on a worn clutch pack and wonder why it's slipping? May I ask why you went with the hydraulic, non-adjustable clutch without upgrading the clutch pack? I'm thinking you have possibly glazed a few of the friction disks and it is causing the clutch to slip. the high performance clutch pack from HD is only $179. with possible discounts from Pc pAin here on the forum (John @ horny toad hd). probably the cheapest and easiest fix after verifying that there is no air in the system.
I did the stage 4 upgrade back in early 14, the hydraulic conversion I did early this year... The clutch pack was changed when the stage 4 went in (per Harley). The stage 4 was done by the dealership, I did the clutch conversion... And the pack wasn't changed as the conversion only replaced the push road and cover assemblies Honestly I didn't think about upgrading the pack (or changing it) when I did the hydraulic conversion due to the fact theonly thing changing is how the clutch is engaged... But I'll take a close look at the pack to see if that was the issue...
 

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Sounds like clutch slippage.
First, measure the clutches/steels as per service manual, and if all is well, then, the use of a VPC92T clutch lock-up hat, and a Barnett diaphram spring will NOT let it slip again, unless that is equipped with the set-up with 3 coil springs, then a complete Barnett kit will also end the slip.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So it was the clutch pack, pulled the pack and found that the steels were blue, and some of the graphite plates are black...
Thanks for the advice...
It was a learning experience (never pulled/ changed my clutch)
Hopefully once the pack is changed all will be fine
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So after changing the pack it turns out that the pack was fine... It was the actuating rod I received for my clutch conversion... I was given an "older style", which was slightly too big. Swapped the rod for the newer style "three price" and eureka... Purring like a kitten...

Learn something new everyday...
 
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