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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the clutch pack last summer and I haven't been able to adjust my clutch right despite trying many times all different ways. I'm really frustrated at this point! No matter if I turn out the adjusting screw a half turn, 3/4 turn or one turn I can still not get any slack in the cable. I've tried it with the 1/16 to 1/8" slack, done the nickel trick and still my clutch is slightly engaged with the lever pulled all the way in. Right now I have no slack in the cable and the clutch works ok but I can't get it into neutral when the bike is hot unless I'm moving or I shut the bike off. I'm not sure what to do anymore, I've never had this problem on any of my other bikes. It's a 2011 Ultra with alto clutch pak from Dennis Kirk and screaming eagle spring with redline shock proof in tranny and F+ in primary. I also installed the Burley easy clutch but may remove that and the SE spring and start over. Any ideas, it's driving me nuts!!
 

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I've got a similar set up to yours, except I'm not running a Burly easy clutch.

Alto clutch plates; Evolution 480# spring; AIM lockup. I'm running ATF in the primary.

I had trouble getting mine to fully release in the beginning, until I started using this simple procedure that my dyno guy showed me.

1. Loosen the clutch cable until the lever is laying all the way against the grip. (I was only loosening it until the lever had a lot of play in it before).

2. Adjust the clutch pack 1/2 turn out from all the way in (you know the drill here)

3. Adjust the cable for about 1/8" slack at the lever.

I know that's pretty basic, but that's what got it done for me.
 

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Sounds like you need to start over. As Jay said, adjust the clutch (behind derby cover) and then fine tune it with the cable adjustment. If the clutch itself isn't close, you'll never get it right with just the cable.
 

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Here's how I do it, basically the same as above with a couple clarifications.

1. Loosen the cable adjuster, screw it ALL THE WAY in. While doing this you may want to make sure you pull the clutch lever back against the grip as you go. It's a good idea to take up the slack in the clutch cable as much as possible during this, as some people have somehow managed to disconnect the cable inside the transmission.

2. Your clutch lever should now be all the way back against the grip.

3. While lightly holding the clutch lever against the grip, tighten the clutch adjusting screw till the lever just starts to pull away from the grip.

4. Back the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn, tighten the lock nut.

5. Now adjust the clutch cable for the desired free play at the lever. I set this up so there is almost zero slack with the engine/trans cold, the trans case grows as it warms up and increases the free play.

6. With the engine at operating temp, tug on the cable housing by the tach enough to show you the gap where the cable goes through the mount at the lever. Don't PULL on it, just tug hard enough to take up the slack. You should see a dime to nickel size gap between the cable end and the mount.

Roll the bike backwards on the driveway both while shut off, and while running in 1st gear with the clutch in. There should be very little difference in effort required to roll the bike between stopped and running in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses guys but I've done all of these tricks multiple times and always when the bike was cold. TDKKART I adjusted it the last time exactly like you said above and every time I shifted into first gear with the lever pulled all the way in the bike would jump and kill. I'm starting to wonder if something is bent inside somewhere? Before I changed out my clutch it was starting to slip and with 40K miles on the bike I figured it was time for a new clutch. I'm very mechanically inclined, I have no problem doing all my own maintenance but for some reason this is just kicking my ass! I'm wondering if I should pull it all apart, remove the ez burley clutch and go back to stock spring but I'm leary to do that because I still may end up with the same adjustment problem!? What else could be causing this???
 

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Any of the EZ-clutch deals will end up with less travel in the release mechanism, that's why they work, more leverage= less travel. Are your hand grips stock diameter?? Too big will limit lever stroke. Compare the stack height of the new clutch vs a stock pak.
Aftermarket clutch cable?? A cable with too much stretch limits the travel. Too much oil in the primary will make the clutch drag.
 

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If you already jumped through all the clutch adjustment hoops then putting the stock clutch back in won't hurt a thing. If you do put the stock clutch back in it will give you a chance to inspect the clutch plates and clutch spring.
I use the HD SE clutch plates and the SE clutch spring and I never had a adjustment issue, the only difference between the SE clutch plates and the stock clutch plates is the SE version doesn't use the damper spring or damper spring seat.
Is there a possibility that the clutch spring is installed backwards? I would assume that it is not but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Even with my clutch adjusted correctly the bike will jump a little when I put it first gear when the bike is just started for the first time because everything is cold. I also ditched the synthetic oil in the primary and put in HD primary/trans oil in and the clutch works fine with that oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm going to drain the primary and trans tonight and see what the new fluid will do. I may have to pull it apart and check the clutch spring, also I never thought about comparing the height of the clutch plate stacks, I just made sure I had the same amount of discs put in that I took out. I do also have aftermarket grips but I had them before the clutch change and they were fine then. No aftermarket clutch cable. The clutch actually works fine once it's warmed up, I just can't get it into neutral without rolling it forward and when it's cold the first few shift changes are really hard.
 

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To satisfy my own curiosity, I put a dial indicator on the clutch release plate to see how much travel there is in the mechanism.

With the indicator next to the adjustment screw on the release plate I came up with .082" total travel. My bike has all stock components except for the grips on the bars.

I couldn't come up with a spec for clutch release travel in the service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So just under 3/32". I'll have to grab a dial indicator here from work and check mine. I know it moves quite a bit, I checked that after my last adjustment just to make sure it was actually disengaging.

It's just strange to me why even before I installed the ez clutch I couldn't get any slack in my cable?

Don't think I have the old clutch pak any longer to compare the stack height.

I'm hoping that the fluid change out will at least help with finding neutral? Sometimes I can hardly move the shifter peg unless I roll the bike, other times I just blow right by it!
 

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I'm hoping that the fluid change out will at least help with finding neutral? Sometimes I can hardly move the shifter peg unless I roll the bike, other times I just blow right by it!

Too much primary oil will indeed make the clutch drag, as will the wrong fluid.

This pic illustrates the correct primary fluid level. There's some discussion about exactly how many ounces it takes to get there, but this is the correct level. Any higher risks having the clutch drag.



I'm currently trying Type F ATF in mine, because that's what was recommendd by BDL to use with their compensator. Seems to work just fine, shifts smooth and quiet, neutral is easy to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will fill it with the required ounce's then check to make sure that level is the same as the pic you posted. Think I'm going to try golden spectre 6 speed in the tranny mostly because I can get it right away. I have the redline shock proof in there now but I believe it's the heavy. ATF in primary....interesting...and cheaper!

Thanks for all the Help TD!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I changed the fluid in the primary and trans with golden Spectre lubes....Tranny shifts much better now. I believe the primary was overfilled from when I changed the clutch out. I put in the required oil after removing the primary cover but when I looked at it and compared it to the picture above it was high. I refilled primary to match the picture above and shifting is much easier and I can now find neutral when the bike is hot. Thanks again to all who helped me out with this!!!
 
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