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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 RG with a few mods (SE Stage 1, V&H power duels and V&H pipes) and have never been happy with the bikes power. When I ride two up it feels like I'm on a turtle.

I've mod'd cars in the past and I was never really concerned about reliability but with a bike it's a different story! I want to add power but DO NOT want to sacrifice any reliability ..... at all!

I'm thinking about these options below for the top end. Nothing that would require boring the bottom end as I don't want to mess with anything more. The more you mess with stuff the more you open yourself up to potential issues down the road!


1) HD 103 kit with cams

2) Fuel Moto 107 kit with cams

3) SS 106 Kit with cams

With all three options I'm considering CNC heads, if that's worth doing?

I welcome input from those who've already traveled this road, so please don't be shy folks!
 

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Save your money and don't get the heads. First of all just try out a good low end torque cam. Then if you still want some more power just go with any of the 3 big bore kits. The 103 is a good kit but if your bike does not have a warranty the bigger kits would give you more power then the 103. The right cam will make a big difference and a with the weight of the touring models and riding 2 up a low end torque cam will wake up your bike some.
 

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You can see my build in my signature... I haven't had it on a dyno, but I can tell you that it pulls like a freakin freight train, and works perfectly for two up riding. It hasn't missed a beat since I did the build. I went with the 107 vice the 103 after asking an unbiased rider what he thought of his build. His response-if ya don't do it you will always wonder-what if? :D The difference in price is negligible. So, I would skip the heads, do the 107 whether from Fuel Moto or Frank Drago, and enjoy the ride.
I wouldn't worry to much about working the heads, not enough bang for the buck IMO. You can always do that later if you choose.

Rowdy
 

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I'd definitely go 107 and have the heads worked to match the cam, put in a tuner get it tuned and your done. If you do a lot of 2up tell the guy doing your heads and select correct cam and comp for that cam. IMO if you have it apart why not do the heads they are the heart of the engine
 

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Well, if you really want a reliable hot rod, sell your twin cam and get an Evo powered touring rig. There's entirely too many weak points in the newer TCs to feel "safe" once you kick up the power output.

Quickest fix for the turtle factor, re-gear the primary or final drive. You have to be prepared for a few hundred more RPM at cruise, but getting off the line will be noticeably improved.

That said, another vote for the 107". If you're going to go with a bigger bore, you will kick yourself later down the road for just going with the HD 103. One side benefit will be a reasonable bump in compression even if you stick with your stock heads.

Regarding the heads. Whatever you decide, match the heads, cam and compression or run the risk of great disappointment. You said CNC, that's a general statement, many places offer CNC exchange with different build goals, see above "match" comment. Harley sells it's own SE CNC heads if you're heavy into the HD koolaid... personally I would skip the SE option.

No matter what... be prepared to trade off some reliability. More power will run the risk of breaking stuff that is barely adequate in stock form.
 
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best reliability:
103" kit (save $$,have your cylinders bored & matched to a quality piston kit)
S&S .583 cams
mild headwork featuring 1.900/1.575 valves
we do this build on a regular basis,VERY good low end torque thru about 5000 RPM,100+/110+ can be expected with stock like reliability/depenability
 

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best reliability:
103" kit (save $$,have your cylinders bored & matched to a quality piston kit)
S&S .583 cams
mild headwork featuring 1.900/1.575 valves
we do this build on a regular basis,VERY good low end torque thru about 5000 RPM,100+/110+ can be expected with stock like reliability/depenability
Very good point. I was too focused on the word "kit" and didn't think bore existing cylinders ...
 
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as far as CNC & other "off the shelf" heads,CNC just means computer numaricly controled,and is better for doing 100 heads in the time it takes a hand porter to do 1 set,but if the original head digitized wasnt much good,the rest wont be either,and with"off the shelf" head its a total crap shoot weather your going to get headwork to fit your build,find a shop that will take into account your riding style,performance expectations for cam selection & degree of headwork
 

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With a good pipe and tune and a can take a Tman 555 or our Dragos new 560 stock 103 you can see 94/98 HP 107/110 Tq no head work. No boring cylinders all bolt in. And everything else will be a bonus.........
 

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Where have you been hiding? Haven't seen you on here in a while. To give you some food for thought, I did a 107" and cams (no head work & 9.8.1 compression) last fall and in the 1000 miles since had the stock crank shift on me. I'm having the crank, trued, welded, balanced, and Timken bearing conversion done now. It destroyed my bored 107 jugs in the process so that cost for 107" is now double. Lesson learned for me. Not to say my issue is going to happen to everyone, but with the way HD makes the bottom ends now I wouldn't take the chance again personally. JMO

I intend to keep my bike a long time, but if I were ever to do a big bore kit and cams again I would spend an extra Grand and have the bottom end done right from the git go. If your looking for long term reliability do the crank too. It's only 6 more bolts to remove the bottom end from the bike.
 

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103 kit,Tmann 555 torquer cams nice cam with a good 2 into 1 like the dragos dragula will get you a 100 ponies. dont forget your tuner and a dyno run. well worth the money. Frank will steer you in the right direction. Forget the heads, unless you want to spend another grand for 10 ponies! dont use the 255 HD cams, they are a no overlap,(make your motor turn over hard when hot) and HOT running engine temp running cam. been there dont that too!
 

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We were one of the first shops in the country to begin boring cylinders to the 3.937" dimension. 88-98" in 2006, and our 96-107" began in 2007.
Wiseco manufactures those # VT-1768's, and # VT-1767's exclusively for us.
WE, do not offer cookie-cutter kits here as a rule, but rather a combo using one of many cams, with our in-house cylinder head work, to achieve/exceed the clients desired goal.
We have been running a special, however, that has many folks VERY surprised.
Your cylinders bored to 107" set at 10.0 cr, with all Cometic gaskets, with ring end gaps set and installed.
S&S .570 E-Z Start cam kit
K&N oil filter
NGK plugs
Barnett clutch spring
$997.00 plus ship
(no pushrods needed as the the cams base circle does not warrant that)
This is a bagger set-up.
We have also been offering that same set-up/same cost, with an S&S .585 E-Z, set at 10.5 cr, for more hot-rod Softail/Dyna oweners.
Headwork, and a t/body will only enhance these already potent combos even more.
Scott
 
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or just build your motor to 124",a very MILDLY built 124" will do 130/130+,and have better than stock reliability
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Where have you been hiding? Haven't seen you on here in a while. To give you some food for thought, I did a 107" and cams (no head work & 9.8.1 compression) last fall and in the 1000 miles since had the stock crank shift on me. I'm having the crank, trued, welded, balanced, and Timken bearing conversion done now. It destroyed my bored 107 jugs in the process so that cost for 107" is now double. Lesson learned for me. Not to say my issue is going to happen to everyone, but with the way HD makes the bottom ends now I wouldn't take the chance again personally. JMO

I intend to keep my bike a long time, but if I were ever to do a big bore kit and cams again I would spend an extra Grand and have the bottom end done right from the git go. If your looking for long term reliability do the crank too. It's only 6 more bolts to remove the bottom end from the bike.
Been busy getting married and making baby's ... :rolleyes:

When I hear about your nightmare it makes me want to stay stock! Been through the same thing with a car .. :mad:

Did you have your jugs bored or did you purchase a new set with the kit. I don't want to bash anyone but could you PM me who you worked with?

Thanks for the input!
 

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I think the best thing you can do for reliability is switch to a fixed primary chain tensioner and leave it all stock. In addition, don't lug the motor, ever, and don't launch it hard either...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm hearing conflicting information during my research and I'm stumped on which way to go.

I hear it's best to bore out your jugs because they already have gone through heat cycles and are married up to the bottom end. But if you want to go any bigger than 103 you need to get jugs that are specifically designed for 107 bore (Evolution, bigger fins ... etc)

I'm certainly not going through the expense and hassle to only upgrade to a 103! So if I go bigger I need new jugs, but if go that route I might have other issues, gaskets, lower crank???

Maybe I'm over analyzing this or maybe I should just keep the 96 and throw in some torquey cams and a Zipper? Would I be happy with that ...??

F-it maybe I should just throw a 124 in it as some have suggested?

???
 

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I'm hearing conflicting information during my research and I'm stumped on which way to go.

I hear it's best to bore out your jugs because they already have gone through heat cycles and are married up to the bottom end. But if you want to go any bigger than 103 you need to get jugs that are specifically designed for 107 bore (Evolution, bigger fins ... etc)

I'm certainly not going through the expense and hassle to only upgrade to a 103! So if I go bigger I need new jugs, but if go that route I might have other issues, gaskets, lower crank???

Maybe I'm over analyzing this or maybe I should just keep the 96 and throw in some torquey cams and a Zipper? Would I be happy with that ...??

F-it maybe I should just throw a 124 in it as some have suggested?

???
From what I have read here in this thread it sounds like there are a lot of people that are suggesting more than what it is that you are looking for. However, I do think that the best advise so far came from HillSide. A 98" build with the proper cam, compression and exhaust, and you will have a very nice reliable ride for two up riding. I just did a 98" build featuring a Red Shift .557 cam, head work with bigger valves and I am pulling over 100 hp and an 114 ft lbs of torque. Take your time with this, I am like you in the sense that I want to do this only once. There are a lot of vendors on this forum that are trying to make money, don't rush to take their word for it, do your due diligence and scrutinize everything. If you want to see some results of a what a 98" build can produce, take a look at my recently posted dyno results in the corresponding forum and see for yourself. If you have any questions, let me know and I will answer them as there is no aspect of my build that I do not know. Bigger is not always Better. :D
 
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