[Manshoon]

All,

I am getting a brand new FLTRU delivered to me on the 16th of February. I have already started picking out the normal upgrades however I wanted to get the opinion of this distinguished group of people before moving forward on one specific thing.

I am looking to have the Screamin' Eagle Bolt-On 110 Stage III Street Performance Kit installed before I even ride the bike. The reason for this kit over the rest is the FLTRU comes with the dual cooled 103 as you all know. From my research this is the only upgrade that fits at this time that still gives numbers like a traditional Stage IV for the air cooled engine, give or take.

Does any one have experience with this kit? I am not finding a lot out there on it but given my desire for my new bike's performance profile this seems to be my only option. The dealer is offering to Dyno after install and I am planning on having an auto-tuner that I am still researching. A new air kit and Xtreme True Duals from Rineheart round out the package. Did I mention it will be purple? :grin:

All recommendations are welcome around my build however I am very interested in any comments around the 110 upgrade kit.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...ii-street-performance-kit---black-highlighted

Thanks for the comments ahead of time.

Manshoon

 

[Ohiobellboy]

Here's my take on it and you may not like it. Calculate how much this is going to run you out the door. Then look for a leftover '15 CVO RGU. You might not be that far off apart from a CVO which has a lot more creature comforts.

 

[PBSTN]

You might want to ride the bike first. The new 103's run pretty good. I test rode a new RGS and I liked the power it had. The RGU having the wet heads might even run better. If you need more power. Maybe do a stage 2 and save the money. JMO

 

[bucketlisthd]

I agree. Do a stage 1 and ride it a while. My hot rod days are past, but I think my stage 1 15 RGS runs well. It's also quiet and no stranger was mucking around in my brand new motor.

 

[nsbohall]

Just ride it for a bit then make your decision. Stage 1 or 2 would be money better spent. JMO

 

[Smarty]

Buy the bike, put a good flowing set of pipes on it, an Andrews 57H cam and have it dyno tuned. I promise you will be happy!

 

['05Train]

I'll be blunt.....The 110 sucks balls. It's not appreciably more powerful than the 103, and it runs hotter. Put your money in suspension; it makes for a more fun bike.

 

[HeatWave]

I like that the kit keeps the Warranty.

Does HD have any Heads / CNC Head Programs that work with this kit and still retain Warranty? How about a 58mm TB? 'ya only live once...

Not a fan of true duals...

 

[Hillsidecycle.com]

We just set up a long-time client in Sarasota, Fla, with a set of our Stage II Heads for use with a custom ported 50mm t/body, 110" cylinders that he provided, all set to used with a Cyclerama .575 cam.
This has the earmarks to prove to be a VERY potent combo.
Waiting for dyno results at this time.
CVO 110"s in general, with one of several cams, headwork/compression increase, 58mm t/body, and a good exhaust, will easily roll out 125/125, running very cool.
Scott

 

[RazorHog]

I recently had the Stage 3 110 kit put on my 13 FLTRX and I really like it. Bike is strong in every gear. I don't have any independent builders in my area that I would use, so going with a HD kit was a no brainer. I'm very satisfied.

 

[Manshoon]

I recently had the Stage 3 110 kit put on my 13 FLTRX and I really like it. Bike is strong in every gear. I don't have any independent builders in my area that I would use, so going with a HD kit was a no brainer. I'm very satisfied.

RazorHog,

How is the heat? Im leaning towards just going to a 'Stage 2'. I am narrowing down on the SE-585 which match the Andrews 57H cams, well almost. The point of me going with the HD parts is to keep the warranty as long as I can. The people here have given me a ton of things to research and understand. Thanks for commenting.

Manshoon

 

[Manshoon]

I like that the kit keeps the Warranty.

Does HD have any Heads / CNC Head Programs that work with this kit and still retain Warranty? How about a 58mm TB? 'ya only live once...

Not a fan of true duals...

HeatWave,

Im still in the planning phase but will ask once I can get my parts guy back on the phone.

One question, why are you not positive on the true duals and what else should I be looking at as a viable alternative?

Thanks,

Manshoon

 

[Manshoon]

Here's my take on it and you may not like it. Calculate how much this is going to run you out the door. Then look for a leftover '15 CVO RGU. You might not be that far off apart from a CVO which has a lot more creature comforts.

Ohiobellboy,

I had the same thought but I just cant find a CVO that I like. The paint color is on the top of my list, so personal preference and all that. Cost is a factor but this is 'the bike' for me for a long time. The wife is pushing me to get what I want now with the idea that this does not get replaced easily. Thanks for the comment.

Manshoon

 

[HeatWave]

HeatWave,

Im still in the planning phase but will ask once I can get my parts guy back on the phone.

One question, why are you not positive on the true duals and what else should I be looking at as a viable alternative?

Thanks,

Manshoon

Most folks go with the True Duals because they prefer the sound (personally, I can't really discern the (sound) difference). Might be more difficult to Tune, usually don't give the curves / #s...

The 2-1 pipes such as the D&D Fatcat give the best curves / #s when properly tuned, I like the sound...

I like the 2-1-2 pipes, good curves / #s, easy to tune, sound good, (to me), look good with the stretched bags...

When the Builders post their ("bragging") dyno sheets, you hardly, if ever, see True Duals used... Hardly, if ever, see True Duals on a Builder's personal bike...

When spec'ing out the 117, consulting Builders from both sides of the Mississippi, all said the V&H PowerDuals 2-1-2 (on the bike when I got it) were fine... I also like the FuelMoto stainless / coated 2-1-2, if I ever have to replace the PowerDuals, I'm going with the FM...

Mufflers also come into play for Tuning, Curves, #s...

Exhaust is a critical element for any TC Build.

JMHO, your results may vary...

Since you are starting with a "clean sheet of paper" you might want to ask the one that's doing your Build for recommendations?

Let us know what they have to say?

 

[Hillsidecycle.com]

There are not any aftermarket parts that should void any HD warranty.
Most aftermaket parts are higher quality than from the Moco.
Scott

 

[apgharleymech]

Ohiobellboy,

I had the same thought but I just cant find a CVO that I like. The paint color is on the top of my list, so personal preference and all that. Cost is a factor but this is 'the bike' for me for a long time. The wife is pushing me to get what I want now with the idea that this does not get replaced easily. Thanks for the comment.

Manshoon

Just had that same conversation with my wife...over the past two months. And I pick up my new 16 FLTRXS this week. Bars and upgrades to come with the tax refund

 

[RazorHog]

RazorHog,

How is the heat? Im leaning towards just going to a 'Stage 2'. I am narrowing down on the SE-585 which match the Andrews 57H cams, well almost. The point of me going with the HD parts is to keep the warranty as long as I can. The people here have given me a ton of things to research and understand. Thanks for commenting.

Manshoon

Prior to my stage 3 upgrade I was at a stage 1 with SE tuner, HD high flow intake and D&D fatcat exhaust. Heat from the engine dropped significantly. With the Stage 3 I haven't had any change, not that I can notice.

 

[Smarty]

Personally, I would get a good set of ceramic coated head pipes, a set of free flowing mufflers (on duals Freedom dynos as good as any and look good and cheaper), put an Andrews 57H cam in it, then have it dyno'd by a good dyno guy with a Direct Link or TTS. No need to change out breather as it flows really well with the Harley stock washable filter unless you just want a different look. You should get about 95-99 hp and upwards of 110-113 torque with this set up. Reliable, rideable, and torque comes on at 100 tq in the 2600 rpm range and the cam pulls all the way out on the right side.With these add ons no need for headwork. But if you did have a mild port job with 1.9" intake valve and a .030 head gasket you would up the hp number by 6-10 hp. and a little on the torque. Save your money now. Then, when you are ready, spend about half the money later that will kick that 110 upgrades ass.


Edit: I don't know what you've had before, but you will not believe just how well the Rushmore bikes run with just these upgrades. It really amazed me.