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Discussion Starter #1
Just recently picked up my new FLTRU. Had the dealer install V&H power duals, raider mufflers w/quiet baffles, ventilater ac, and SE race tuner. Was noticing a little more vibration than normal from the get go. At the first wash around 100 miles, I noticed one of the heat shields was touching the tranny cover. Took it back and they readjusted it. Did not make any difference.
This vibration starts at approx. 2K and gets worse with rpms, any gear, any speed, even in neutral. It's a buzzing type vibration and is felt in the handlebars, seat, shifter, and clutch and brake handles. After two rides of around 150 miles I felt like I had been on an ironhead sporty. At this point I should mention that I've been riding Harley touring bikes ( EG's ) since 2002 and have over 100k miles on them and have been riding two wheels for 40 years. I've never had one that felt like this, not even close. It currently has 700 miles and feels like it's getting worse instead of better.
I've looked closely for any other contact w/exhaust but don't see any. At delivery the dealer I think used a stage one flash for temporary use until I get it on the dyno, but it's running pretty good so I don't feel like its a tuning issue. I absolutely love this bike. Compared to the batwings the handling is unbelievable.
My fear is getting the "they all do that" from HD, or it's within spec.
Any ideas ? Anyone deal with this issue? Telling someone my Harley has a vibration sounds like the start of a good joke.
I will take it to the dealer soon, but just wanted to get a few more miles to monitor if it's getting any worse.
 

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You know it's not right....The dealer installed the parts; take it back and make them fix it.

It's impossible to diagnose something like this over the internet. Could be anything from the brake lever touching the headpipe to a slipped crank.
 

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You know it's not right....The dealer installed the parts; take it back and make them fix it.

It's impossible to diagnose something like this over the internet. Could be anything from the brake lever touching the headpipe to a slipped crank.
I agree 100%. My 15 and now my 16 are smooth as silk. Differently something going on. Once on my 04 Ultra, the D&D Fatcat header pipe was touching the footboard bracket only after I was on the bike and in gear riding. I searched and searched for the vibration. Finally I saw some marks on the pipe. What I finally figured out was when in gear and moving, the belt put enough torque on the engine to pull it over just enough to touch the footboard bracket. I loosened the bracket on the transmission for the pipe, used a big screw driver and moved the pipe and tighten the bracket back up. Never a vibration again.
 

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If it's a true vibration, your heat shield touching the tranny wouldn't produce that.

On the other hand, if it's a rattling noise, check the center bolt that attaches your air cleaner to the bike. If it's loose, it'll shake. It happened to mine, I thought my engine was falling apart.


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Like already stated above, take it back and have them fix it.
They need to make it right.
Good Luck
Swomack
 

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My 2015 RGS vibrated with a "canned map". Once I got a proper dyno tune, smooth as glass.
Note: Dealers don't always allow enough time for techs to perform a thorough tune. I trailered mine to Doc's in Florida.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tuning issue?
Check all engine mounting points?
Or lastly, the crank is sissored?
Scott
Don't really think it's tuning and mounting points have been checked. Hoping it's not the latter, but I'd rather it happen now than out on the road somewhere later.
 

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If it's a true vibration, your heat shield touching the tranny wouldn't produce that.

On the other hand, if it's a rattling noise, check the center bolt that attaches your air cleaner to the bike. If it's loose, it'll shake. It happened to mine, I thought my engine was falling apart.


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Exactly, only touch the frame by way of footboard brackets is what I was talking about. The motor and transmission is rubber isolated from the frame, etc.
 

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If it's a true vibration, your heat shield touching the tranny wouldn't produce that.

On the other hand, if it's a rattling noise, check the center bolt that attaches your air cleaner to the bike. If it's loose, it'll shake. It happened to mine, I thought my engine was falling apart.


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Read the post again, never said touching the tranny, the mount is on the tranny that I loosened to get the pipe away from the floorboard brackets.
 

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Did you check the floorboard mounting brackets to see if they are making contact with the exhaust. V&H usually has spacers that come with the head pipes to move the floorboards out away from the exhaust, if the spacers were not installed the head pipe may be making contact to the floorboard brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you check the floorboard mounting brackets to see if they are making contact with the exhaust. V&H usually has spacers that come with the head pipes to move the floorboards out away from the exhaust, if the spacers were not installed the head pipe may be making contact to the floorboard brackets.
Actually just got through checking that. The heat shield from the front cylinder comes very close to the floorboard but doesn't touch it. At rest with the engine running at 2500 rpm's you can feel significant vibration on the grips but the heat shield is not making any contact with the floorboard. Weather looks good tomorrow here so one more good ride will put me close to 1000 miles so I'll probably drop it off and hope for the best.
At 100 miles I changed all the fluids to Redline products. The shockproof made a big difference in the tranny but not on the vibration issues.
 

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I have a vibration that has been going on a year now that me or the dealer have been unsuccessful at locating. It feels like a tire out of balance and I have gone through 3 different front tires, 2 different rear tires with no change in the vibration. I have tried the wheel weights for balancing and have gone with just the Ride-On. It does seem to change in intensity from times to time. Sometimes I barely notice it and think it may be getting better and other times it drives me crazy. I have adjusted the neck bearing a little tighter than spec to see if it had an effect and it did seem to muffle the vibration a bit. I have thrown out the bad tune theory and bad crank theory because this all started when the 110" was in the bike and I have since had the 120ST installed and the bike rides the same. I am wondering if it could just be a bad neck bearing and I am considering changing it just to see if it fixes anything. I will also change all wheel bearings the next tire change even though they don't show any signs of failure. I have gone over all engine mounting bolts and did find a couple that needed to be tightened but it made no difference. I installed monotubes in the front and it didn't change the vibration. I have Ohlins in the rear. If anyone has any other ideas please share. Not trying to highjack the thread for my issue but wanted to share what I've been through and tried and to see if there are any suggestions to help the both of us. Very seriously doubt the OP's issue is with the crank with that few of miles but I guess anything is possible.
 

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I have a vibration that has been going on a year now that me or the dealer have been unsuccessful at locating. It feels like a tire out of balance and I have gone through 3 different front tires, 2 different rear tires with no change in the vibration. I have tried the wheel weights for balancing and have gone with just the Ride-On. It does seem to change in intensity from times to time. Sometimes I barely notice it and think it may be getting better and other times it drives me crazy. I have adjusted the neck bearing a little tighter than spec to see if it had an effect and it did seem to muffle the vibration a bit. I have thrown out the bad tune theory and bad crank theory because this all started when the 110" was in the bike and I have since had the 120ST installed and the bike rides the same. I am wondering if it could just be a bad neck bearing and I am considering changing it just to see if it fixes anything. I will also change all wheel bearings the next tire change even though they don't show any signs of failure. I have gone over all engine mounting bolts and did find a couple that needed to be tightened but it made no difference. I installed monotubes in the front and it didn't change the vibration. I have Ohlins in the rear. If anyone has any other ideas please share. Not trying to highjack the thread for my issue but wanted to share what I've been through and tried and to see if there are any suggestions to help the both of us. Very seriously doubt the OP's issue is with the crank with that few of miles but I guess anything is possible.
Have you tried jacking the bike up with a center stand, take something like a chair and get a clamp with a dowel rod and put it about an 1/8 inch from the wheel, then spin the wheel to check for warpage. I would do the same with the sidewall of the tire, then in front with the front profile of the tire thread. Back in the late 60's when I was working at the service station (that's when you did mufflers/ new tires, everything) we got a car doing this and it drove us crazy. We checked u-joints and everything. It ended up being a brand new tire out of round from the factory. It does happen. Good luck.
 

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It is highly unlikely that the crank is bad on a new bike and if you had the dealer check the crank and they find the crank to be in specs then you will have to pay.
In most cases the tires are spin balanced and any tire or wheel problems should be noticeable during the spin balance procedure.
You could have a problem with the compensator being loose, even though the compensator is new it has been known that sometimes the compensator nut will come loose causing a problem.
Also the final drive belt may not be tighten correctly so that could be something to check as well
Also there may be a issue with the engine being out of alignment but it is hard to get the dealer to check that and if there is no problem found you have to pay.
Chances are that the engine is out of tune and that would be the best place to start.
 

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Is it common to have a crank issue on a new machine?
No.
Can it, and has it occured?
Yes.
That said, all pie-in-the-sky suggestions until it is looked over.
Scott
 
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