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Discussion Starter #1
I admit I have no idea about installing and setting up a complete new audio system, but with your guidance, I will get it completed. I will install a JVC Arsenal KD A-95BT in-dash with 2 RF 300X4 amps. At first, I will have the amps in 2 channel mode to run 4 speakers in the inner fairing; provides growth for additional 4 more speakers (lids / lowers). I get lost when trying to figure out what wiring/additional equipment I need for the install. Once wired, I have no idea how to set up the amp, but I'll worry about that after just getting past the install.

1. I think I need a distribution block, but don't know which one I need. I've seen fused, not fused, and different gauge wiring size in and out.

2. What gauge wires do I need? I've read 8 GA from battery to block, then 10 GA from block to amps. Just not sure.

3. Do I need fused wire if the distribution block is already fused, or vice versa? Is one way better than the other?

Thanks for the help

V/r
 

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If you haven't already purchased the amps, I would go with the 300×2 instead of the 300×4, more adjustable and just a better amp IMO. Running an 8 guage wire is fine. I ran 8 guage with the fuse under the seat, it goes to the faring, there I have a 1-4 to 4-8 wire distribution block, I just use one side, I still use 8 guage to go to the amps.

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dbell66253 is right

8 gauge is sufficient, a true spec like EFX kit from walmart, or knu concepts on amazon, the two kits on amazon are tin over alum and copper over alum.

the copper one is more expensive, both are good each under $30

most single amp kits have a 60 amp fuse included, plastic barrel type, I bought the lightning audio dual fuse block from ebay, $9 with 4 fuses, got 2 30 amp and 2 40 amp.

I have my fuse under my seat, went 4 ga to 8ga x2, I think the 4 ga was overkill, it's only a one foot run, everything else is 8ga

I grounded to my frame, sometimes people prefer grounding back to the battery

+1

PBR300x2, 2 channel is a better amp, I have 4 front speakers hooked up to one and it's very clean and loud, I had the PBR300x4, it was harder to fine tune, or damn near impossible to find the breakup points

that's just because rockford came out with the PBR300x4 first

keep us posted
 

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If you've never installed an amp before, I would opt for a more plug and play type setup. With the RF, you're going to be splicing wires unless you have all of the little connectors and the skills to install them correctly. I haven't seen an installation kit for the RF yet that makes the connections for you without cutting wires.
 

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I admit I have no idea about installing and setting up a complete new audio system, but with your guidance, I will get it completed. I will install a JVC Arsenal KD A-95BT in-dash with 2 RF 300X4 amps. At first, I will have the amps in 2 channel mode to run 4 speakers in the inner fairing; provides growth for additional 4 more speakers (lids / lowers). I get lost when trying to figure out what wiring/additional equipment I need for the install. Once wired, I have no idea how to set up the amp, but I'll worry about that after just getting past the install.

1. I think I need a distribution block, but don't know which one I need. I've seen fused, not fused, and different gauge wiring size in and out.

2. What gauge wires do I need? I've read 8 GA from battery to block, then 10 GA from block to amps. Just not sure.

3. Do I need fused wire if the distribution block is already fused, or vice versa? Is one way better than the other?

Thanks for the help

V/r
do yourself a favor and forget that you ever knew that PBR300x4 part # existed. There is much better to be had for about the same $ and I'm specifically speaking of the Soundstream PN4.520D. Provides the same configuration options with the 1 MAJOR exception that the SS is 2 ohm stable and the RF is not (4 channel). Couple that with 520w of nice clean Class D power that won't tax your stock charging system. SS amps run cool to the touch.

1. You don't need a distribution block. Simply run 2 seperate 10ga solid strand power wires to your battery, fuse each one independently AT THE BATTERY for your situation. The SS, use 30A fuses.

2. 10ga solid strand wire you can pick up at AutoZone is perfect. You can get the fuse holders there too.

3. See 1 and 2 above.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All,

Thanks for the guidance so far and it seems I should have waited to purchase other amps, but I've had these amps sitting in the garage since they first came out. So I might as well use them.

So either I can block it or just run 2 separate lines from the battery. Make sure I fuse at the battery.
 

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I'll try and help

30amp fuses or better to each amp, so fused distribution block

where you place fuse block is up to you.

more accessible under the seat,

less cable to run if placed under fairing

I have one PAIR of amp mounts if you need them

Will have more soon, have been working on another project.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll try and help

30amp fuses or better to each amp, so fused distribution block

where you place fuse block is up to you.

more accessible under the seat,

less cable to run if placed under fairing

I have one PAIR of amp mounts if you need them

Will have more soon, have been working on another project.
Understand and thanks for the help. Also, I already have a pair of your amp mounts for the install.
 

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do yourself a favor and forget that you ever knew that PBR300x4 part # existed. There is much better to be had for about the same $ and I'm specifically speaking of the Soundstream PN4.520D. Provides the same configuration options with the 1 MAJOR exception that the SS is 2 ohm stable and the RF is not (4 channel). Couple that with 520w of nice clean Class D power that won't tax your stock charging system. SS amps run cool to the touch.

1. You don't need a distribution block. Simply run 2 seperate 10ga solid strand power wires to your battery, fuse each one independently AT THE BATTERY for your situation. The SS, use 30A fuses.

2. 10ga solid strand wire you can pick up at AutoZone is perfect. You can get the fuse holders there too.

3. See 1 and 2 above.
How much better are the Soundstream amps? Are they easier to tune and mount? Im upgrading my system too and im in the market for a decent amp
 

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Understand and thanks for the help. Also, I already have a pair of your amp mounts for the install.
you ordered your brackets on 10/25/2012 7:16p 16th person to order

brackets #22 and #23, left and right side, so sorry, and I appreciate your support

I have cabin fever I guess, no disrespect meant or intended

do you have adaptor rings and speakers yet?

I enjoyed most of my install except the soldering, good adapter rings help

I fought with the throttle up rings and got a little frustrated with the speaker output soldering

doing my bars the last couple days, soldering is getting easier

here's where I put my fuse block



then made an side mount ring terminal



^^^^^^^ above ^^^^^^^^^^

I did have to cut my battery box top cover on the positive side, you can just barely see it, but I removed a good portion of the corner, stuff was just getting too tight
 

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How much better are the Soundstream amps? Are they easier to tune and mount? Im upgrading my system too and im in the market for a decent amp
They're not even in the same class as the RF amps. I love that little PBR300x2 amp, the PBR300x4 is a sad excuse for an amp IMO.

The SS amp will blow away either of these amps @ 520w running a 2 ohm load to all 4 channels. It's class D meaning it runs much cooler. On the RGs I think the mounting is a little tricky because it has to be mounted horizontal on left or right side and fits between the glove boxes and the inner fairing. It's a little harder to mount but well worth the effort. Make sure whichever way you go that you match your speakers to your amp. If it's a 2 ohm stable amp, use 2 ohm speakers and the same with a 4 ohm amp for optimum output and efficiency.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
See now you guys went and made me decide to sell/trade both of my 300X4s for 300X2s or the SS. I was going to install 4 speakers in the fairing, but just can't make that leap of faith cutting 2 holes in something I just paid a crap load of money to get. I'll use my RF T165 I planned on mounting on the inside to replace the OEM speakers for now.

Again, thanks for the help and steering me in the right/correct direction.
 

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See now you guys went and made me decide to sell/trade both of my 300X4s for 300X2s or the SS. I was going to install 4 speakers in the fairing, but just can't make that leap of faith cutting 2 holes in something I just paid a crap load of money to get. I'll use my RF T165 I planned on mounting on the inside to replace the OEM speakers for now.

Again, thanks for the help and steering me in the right/correct direction.
Smart man.. but for arguments sake I kinda wish you woulda put the x4s in just so you would know the difference. :)

Man it's just a hole.. do it! LOL
 

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let's be honest, size and space are the determining factors.

the sound stream amps that are the same size as the Rockford and NEW hawg wired amps, ( small ) are all the same ratings, around 300w

I've talked to the soundstream people way back when, someone on another board even accused hawg wired of taking soundstream guts and repackaging them

cutting holes is hard to stomach, it took me about a year to make the first cut.

but honestly CVO guys have cut painted inner fairings, it's a better sound.

I remember when Alnico speakers were $15, and now they're $250 ea.

I don't understand hard selling a guy on an amp that can't fit on his bike without an act of congress, or 1800 hours of community service first.

He already has 90% of the parts to get something going.

I'd say, install what you have, run more, or swap amps if you aren't happy later.

You obviously bought the equipment based on the best available knowledge at the time.

don't let brand trickery fool ya, execution is 98% of a good install
 

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let's be honest, size and space are the determining factors.

the sound stream amps that are the same size as the Rockford and NEW hawg wired amps, ( small ) are all the same ratings, around 300w

I've talked to the soundstream people way back when, someone on another board even accused hawg wired of taking soundstream guts and repackaging them

cutting holes is hard to stomach, it took me about a year to make the first cut.

but honestly CVO guys have cut painted inner fairings, it's a better sound.

I remember when Alnico speakers were $15, and now they're $250 ea.

I don't understand hard selling a guy on an amp that can't fit on his bike without an act of congress, or 1800 hours of community service first.

He already has 90% of the parts to get something going.

I'd say, install what you have, run more, or swap amps if you aren't happy later.

You obviously bought the equipment based on the best available knowledge at the time.

don't let brand trickery fool ya, execution is 98% of a good install
^^^ Agreed. I have contemplated changing my system many many times. But when it comes down to spending the money, there really is not a reason to do it since mine works perfectly fine and I can hear it great! I am sure for a couple extra hundred dollars I can get a little bit more quality of a sound but realistically we are on a motorcycle not in a studio. I'd rather save the money.
 

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let's be honest, size and space are the determining factors.

the sound stream amps that are the same size as the Rockford and NEW hawg wired amps, ( small ) are all the same ratings, around 300w

I've talked to the soundstream people way back when, someone on another board even accused hawg wired of taking soundstream guts and repackaging them

cutting holes is hard to stomach, it took me about a year to make the first cut.

but honestly CVO guys have cut painted inner fairings, it's a better sound.

I remember when Alnico speakers were $15, and now they're $250 ea.

I don't understand hard selling a guy on an amp that can't fit on his bike without an act of congress, or 1800 hours of community service first.

He already has 90% of the parts to get something going.

I'd say, install what you have, run more, or swap amps if you aren't happy later.

You obviously bought the equipment based on the best available knowledge at the time.

don't let brand trickery fool ya, execution is 98% of a good install
sorry to offend you h-donut. First off I think that "hard-selling" someone on moving away from a piece of crap amp is only to his own benefit, not mine. I benefit in no way in helping others make the right decisions. PBR400x4 is a BAD CHOICE all around. Take a look around on this forum and other forums. It's a bad amp and there are tons more people who have had issues with heat and performance of this amp than there are not.

The SS amps that you're referring to, Picasso Nano, are not even in the same class as those RF amps. No comparison whatsoever, tested or even in documented specs.

I don't even get your SS vs hawg-wired comment above. makes no sense to me at all. These amps have no comparison.

I thought (silly me) that I'd come over here and help where I could. I don't benefit in any way by suggesting one product over another and I'll certainly call out some of the manufacturers that post here and where I hang out about the comparison of products when the truth is not told. My experiences with the products I know and recommend are based solely on the fact that I've wasted my own money over the years trying to find "that" sound without breaking the bank. This forum is obviously based solely on the RGs and I respect that. What I don't get is the mentality of just slapping shit together in the hopes it comes out well. If you think putting in RF amps and slapping in a high-dollar brand of speakers is the answer to your audio issues, you are all sadly mistaken and you have no clue what good sound is all about.

You say execution is 98% of a good install. That's incorrect. 100% of a good install is planning and determing what it is you actually want and expect out of your investment BEFORE you ever start buying equipment. One thing I will tell you all is that you need to stop listening to all these manufacturers telling you what's best for your setup. Here's a good koolaid video for you all to watch.

FIND SOMEONE WHO'S BEEN THERE, not someone who's selling you something.

I'll just go back to my batwing forum and leave you guys to your acts of congress and 1800 hours of community service theories.

Peace out!
UltranutZ
 

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The bottom line on your install SMSGT is everyone has an opinion and all/none of them are right. I've had Boom, Arc Audio, RF, JL Audio, Hawg Wired, and Alpine in my last two Road Glides and they all sounded good. There are way too many variables such as windshield, pipes, helmet, budget, and preferred music, to count on one cookie cutter recommendation. Try it out. If you like it, stick with it. If not, upgrade it or switch it out. And whatever you do, tell everybody why you like it or why you think it's crap. You might save someone a boatload of money that they can use on other mods! This forum has saved me LOTS! It's also cost me LOTS on unplanned mods! Lol!
 

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it's like windshields, people just like to use what they like to use.

at shark week one, out of 50+ road glides, only two people had the same windshield

same with bars and radios, even if you know the right answer, doesn't make the right answer everyone else's choice.

I try leading people toward this or that if they ask, but if someone has already bought something, usually that means it's getting installed on their vehicle.

I'm personally cautiously optimistic and learning all the time. I've already learned some good info from your posts on here already.

you obviously personally know your shit, math is where my audio starts also.

There is some widespread disinformation out there on the web, to finally get what I needed to be happy, I had to buy 3 kits claiming to be the end all and pick out the best pieces.

the key with the RF was the 1.5" width, made it real easy to put anywhere

don't let me chase you away.

picasso series look great, just a little big
 

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the bottom line on your install smsgt is everyone has an opinion and all/none of them are right. I've had boom, arc audio, rf, jl audio, hawg wired, and alpine in my last two road glides and they all sounded good. There are way too many variables such as windshield, pipes, helmet, budget, and preferred music, to count on one cookie cutter recommendation. Try it out. If you like it, stick with it. If not, upgrade it or switch it out. And whatever you do, tell everybody why you like it or why you think it's crap. You might save someone a boatload of money that they can use on other mods! This forum has saved me lots! It's also cost me lots on unplanned mods! Lol!
+ 1
 
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