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So I've got the pair of speakers (JM XX) and an Amp (SS pn2.350d) ... is the only other thing I will need is power cable to run back to battery?

I've never even upgraded a headunit in a car, so it's all new to me.
 

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Red fused wire to battery positive, black to ground chassis and should have a second + voltage signal, smaller gauge wire connected to an accessories source. Require to turn on/off the amp. I connected to the cigarette lighter. Plus speakers input output.
Good luck.


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Thanks E. If we could get some NEAR freezing (instead of 30-below freezing) weather, I could get out to the inlaws and get some of these winter mods done
 

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Red fused wire to battery positive, black to ground chassis and should have a second + voltage signal, smaller gauge wire connected to an accessories source. Require to turn on/off the amp. I connected to the cigarette lighter. Plus speakers input output.
Good luck.


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Agree except ground to the battery.
 

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Agree except ground to the battery.
I have always been told (and followed) instructions to ground to the frame. Away from the battery and as close to the amp as possible for any car audio installations. I would assume the bike would be the same. Why ground to the battery?

Edit - just curious because I'm doing this right now and looking for a solid ground point.
 

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I have always been told (and followed) instructions to ground to the frame. Away from the battery and as close to the amp as possible for any car audio installations. I would assume the bike would be the same. Why ground to the battery?

Edit - just curious because I'm doing this right now and looking for a solid ground point.
this is just my guess:
1) you can't really bring EVER grounded device back to the battery, you'd run out of room on the post.
2) makes for easier diagnosis or problems? maybe. a frame-ground is less reliable, but it's "right there next to the amp/radio/horn/whatever"
 

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this is just my guess:
1) you can't really bring EVER grounded device back to the battery, you'd run out of room on the post.
2) makes for easier diagnosis or problems? maybe. a frame-ground is less reliable, but it's "right there next to the amp/radio/horn/whatever"
I have always been told (and followed) instructions to ground to the frame. Away from the battery and as close to the amp as possible for any car audio installations. I would assume the bike would be the same. Why ground to the battery?

Edit - just curious because I'm doing this right now and looking for a solid ground point.
Its a better ground point and I personally got noise and a pop on turn on and off grounding to the frame.
 

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Its a better ground point and I personally got noise and a pop on turn on and off grounding to the frame.
Sounds good. I guess it isn't that hard to change it. I think I am going to run two fused distribution blocks, one for power and one for ground so I only have to get to the battery this one time. I don't have ABS so I may put them under the right side cover, make life easier if I add heated gear or more stereo stuff.
 

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There is an orange wire behind the head lights with a crimped push connector on it. It turns on with the ignition. Use that for your remote to the amp.
 

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Its a better ground point and I personally got noise and a pop on turn on and off grounding to the frame.
The wiring harness /instructions that came with the J&M Rokker 500w have the + going directly to the battery, the - going directly to the main ground post on the frame.

The cig lighter or the orange aux wire are two good "switched" sources for the amp trigger.
 
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