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Spent multiple hours reading everything I could find on IEDs since reading about them here this morning. I was ready to buy a catless head pipe with the goal of getting rid of as much heat as I could. I want to stay as stock as possible at least until after my summer trip as I don't want any warranty questions in some remote town.

So how well do the IEDs work? I understand the concept which makes sense and I could remove them if any problem occurs. But how much cooler will the heat be? It's a small enough investment, but are the gains worth it or should I just go with the new head pipe which a unfamiliar dealer could give me a hard time about if any problems arise?

So please share your thoughts and experiences with the Nightider IED or the FL-VIED.

Thanks, Mark
 

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Spent multiple hours reading everything I could find on IEDs since reading about them here this morning. I was ready to buy a catless head pipe with the goal of getting rid of as much heat as I could. I want to stay as stock as possible at least until after my summer trip as I don't want any warranty questions in some remote town.

So how well do the IEDs work? I understand the concept which makes sense and I could remove them if any problem occurs. But how much cooler will the heat be? It's a small enough investment, but are the gains worth it or should I just go with the new head pipe which a unfamiliar dealer could give me a hard time about if any problems arise?

So please share your thoughts and experiences with the Nightider IED or the FL-VIED.

Thanks, Mark
Go on the Night Rider site( http://www.nightrider.com/parts/). They have all that info listed. They say about 25 degree drop for a 2010. Also your going to have to get the CAT out of the house to really ride cool. I'm thinking of a quick cut and weld myself.
 

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Cat

Also I believe that you my not want to richin the system until you get rid of the CAT . The CAT my not get Hot enough to burn off the by-products and start to clog the CAT it-self. Not sure of actual CAT. specs . Just thinking out loud
 

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Installed the variable IED's last summer on 2010, stock AC with nightstick. Adjusted to 14.1. Fuel milage dropped 5 MPG's. Bike ran well. Could not tell if there was any heat reduction. Over this past winter which hasn't ended, I cut the cat out and rewelded headpipe. Haven't been able to test ride yet. Like you, I prefer to keep bike close to stock until warranty is up. Next year I'll go with air cleaner and Race Tuner. I really like the Nightstick with a few extra disks.
 

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25* where? oil temp, head temp, exhaust temp? I don't think 25* is going to make much difference either way.
 

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25* where? oil temp, head temp, exhaust temp? I don't think 25* is going to make much difference either way.
25* on the oil temp is a big difference.

On my 2010 FLTRX I installed the XIED's as well as the Jackpot 2-1 headpipe.
The oil temps lowered 25-30*. That is on an 85-90 degree day.
Well worth the effort.

Edit: I also have the download for the stage I, 103.
 

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My understanding is the stage 1 download increases the rev limit and adjusts the ignition timing. It does not add more fuel. I think it keeps the air/fuel ratio the same. Am I wrong on this?
 

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My thought on the downloads from a dealer is that they aren't going to alter the AFR much if any at all .. Because of who they are .. They dont wanna get busted altering the emissions .. Mebbe I am wrong , but I dont think so ..
 

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Also I believe that you my not want to richin the system until you get rid of the CAT . The CAT my not get Hot enough to burn off the by-products and start to clog the CAT it-self. Not sure of actual CAT. specs . Just thinking out loud

this is a companion company to nightrider , they state the cat will not be an issue with the IED

http://tuneyourharley.com/biketech/
 

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on my 2011 103 the factpry stage 1 I loaded did effect both the open and closed loop afr. I think people forget that epa is only concerned with a tiny area of overall rpm range so that is all the moco has to worry about. This is from my stage 1 download.
 

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If this is true, then every new owner would be wise to ask for the Stage 1 download right from the get-go. Stock bikes would benefit as well. Am I reading this right?
 

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on my 2011 103 the factpry stage 1 I loaded did effect both the open and closed loop afr. I think people forget that epa is only concerned with a tiny area of overall rpm range so that is all the moco has to worry about. This is from my stage 1 download.
What did the stage 1 cost you ?
 

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If this is true, then every new owner would be wise to ask for the Stage 1 download right from the get-go. Stock bikes would benefit as well. Am I reading this right?
Stage 1 is designed/mapped for se air cleaner and se slip on mufflers so any variation from those specific items could change how your bike runs good bad or indifferent. The maps are also different for 96 vs 103.
 

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What did the stage 1 cost you ?
I bought a sespt part #41000008 for ~260 thinking I would be able to reflash my own ecm but after I got it I found out that only a dealership could get the security token to reflash the ecm and the local dealer charged me $20 to reflash it. ultimately if I had to do it over again I would have gotten the SEPST. It is a little more but much more versitile. I think dragobikeworks gives good deals on them as does pc pain.
 

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I bought a sespt part #41000008 for ~260 thinking I would be able to reflash my own ecm but after I got it I found out that only a dealership could get the security token to reflash the ecm and the local dealer charged me $20 to reflash it. ultimately if I had to do it over again I would have gotten the SEPST. It is a little more but much more versitile. I think dragobikeworks gives good deals on them as does pc pain.
I heard it was like over $100 for the dealer to do the stage 1 down load.
 

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I heard it was like over $100 for the dealer to do the stage 1 down load.
I think I paid $150 for the HD stage 1 download. $100 for the "part" and $50for labor, but I could have reversed this two figures.
 

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Mark - I got the FL-Xied for my 2009 and noticed a drop in temp on my right leg (I also have the V&H tuner). I rode through Missouri (I-40) last year and it was 105* out and the bike rode comfortably (and this was w/soft summer lowers). I just installed an oil temp gage so that I can verify how cool/hot the oil might be but I don't have a baseline temp. I don't really care about the mpg loss as I'll ride anyway. In general, I think it was worth the money - the bike has a better take-off from a light and runs smooth. Plus, I read everything I believe! :eek:
 

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Hey Joke , What are you refering to when you say Vance $ hines Tuner ?
 
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