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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to mount my new Wild1's 12" bars and wire them internally, however, riding season is now here and I'm thinking of just mounting them without doing the internal wiring till next winter.

There is a wealth of posts here on internally wiring and changing handlebars, but nothing I can find on a straight swap??

Is there anything special I need to know to just swap out the bars and leave the wiring on the outside of the bars?? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wild1 bars can't be "externally" wired. Sorry to break it
Why do you say that?? I can't see any reason that I can't run the wires externally?? Please explain? Thanks
 

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With your stock bars, the wiring squeezes out between the bar and the switch housing covers. The switch housing cut out will not be visible when put on the chubby bars. The reason I like best is because the Wild1 website FAQ page states they can't be.
 

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On a serious note though, you should be able to swap them out in a day. I started mine at 7pm on a Friday night and had it all together by midnight. You may have more to do though with clutch/brake though. Regardless wait for a rainy day have have fun. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On a serious note though, you should be able to swap them out in a day. I started mine at 7pm on a Friday night and had it all together by midnight. You may have more to do though with clutch/brake though. Regardless wait for a rainy day have have fun. Good luck.
I'm in Vancouver, Canada, we don't have to wait long for a rainy day here, lol We don't tan here. we rust!

I have already purchased a wire extension kit, and extended brake lines and clutch cables, so hopefully I have everything I need............... I also work for a beer company, so that's covered as well!!
 

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Did you get the Outlawz? You don't need all the extra if you went with the 12" outlawz. also you have to pull the existing cables out, meaning you have to pull apart deutsch plugs anyways. When I did mine it took me 4 hours and 30 minutes of that was dinner and another 30 minutes was beer and another 30 minutes was a friend showing up to have a beer and help him fill out some paper work and 30 minutes was..........Just messing, but at least of those 4 hours 1 1/2 hrs was farting around.
 

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As stated above there is no indentation for the wires to exit the controls to run outside the bars on Wild Ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, looks like I'm going to opening up that damn fairing afterall, Damn!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you get the Outlawz? You don't need all the extra if you went with the 12" outlawz. also you have to pull the existing cables out, meaning you have to pull apart deutsch plugs anyways. When I did mine it took me 4 hours and 30 minutes of that was dinner and another 30 minutes was beer and another 30 minutes was a friend showing up to have a beer and help him fill out some paper work and 30 minutes was..........Just messing, but at least of those 4 hours 1 1/2 hrs was farting around.
Not outlawz, got the WO502 12.5"ers

What is "all the extra"??
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thinking I may just cut and re solder the wires, I've read it's almost as fast and no chance of screwing up one of the connectors which would leave me dead in the water.
 

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No way. I had never taken the connectors apart before and by far it might take you 10 min a connector to take off. Just take pictures of where the wires go. I even wrote a diagram out.

Once you get one or two pins out, you will be on a roll. Putting them back in is just as easy. Just note where the little tabs on the pins face when putting them back together. I did my bars in 3 hours.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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When I installed my 502's I used a +4 clutch cable and took the upper brake hose (ABS) out of the bundle and put on outside of gauge nacelle. I used stock length wires. I did replace the tbw with SE part without the green plug (I didn't have to but chose to). I wouldn't even think about cutting the wires. All you need is needle nose pliers and a paper clip to remove wires from deutch plug. Make a diagram of wire color placement and read the other threads on internally wiring bars.:D
 

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Well I've done them both ways. Pulled the pins out and cut and solder. I think I would cut and solder, especially the TBW. Just that much less your pulling through the bars. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So just as I've read here, 2 camps on the cut&solder??? Decisions, decisions, lol!!

One other question, what is this "shimming the front brake lever"? Can't find anything on it here on what to do or why, just a mention or two to make sure it's done??
 

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Brake lever has a light señor that sticks up. If you don't shim the lever before you put that back on you can shear the sensor top off. You don't have to ask me how I know that.
 
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