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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Installing the Yaffe 10" bars!!! Started this morning. Got everything disassembled. Now the fun part,WIREING! Heres a few pics to start with. Going to a Buds hse. to run wires in the bars. Will follow with more 2morrow. Sunday should be complete. Wish me Luck! BTW, just got off the phone with PYO, Fender and bags are getting mocked up NOW and being sent out for paint 2morrow! I'm starting to actually feel it happening.:D:D
 

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Man your going all out with internal wiring?? Your crazy! ;) just kidding,.. wish I had the patience to do that. Your bike is gonna look sweet when its all done. Keep the pics coming!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Man your going all out with internal wiring?? Your crazy! ;) just kidding,.. wish I had the patience to do that. Your bike is gonna look sweet when its all done. Keep the pics coming!
Thanks Chainsaw! Also, asked Yaffe how much for the rake to the front and stretch,was curious,... he said, 20 hrs. labor @ 75.00 per hr. plus what it cost for the kit to do that and a couple other things. Came out to about $2,700.00. I'm getn anal,and ate up with this sh*t, Shueeeey! LOL!LOL!LOL!:cool: I'll post some more pics 2morrow.
 

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Good luck Neano. They are going to look great. That stretch kit makes the bike look incredible. Is that $2700 if PYO does it? Of course it looks better if you put a 23" or 26" up front after the stretch and those wheels aren't cheap:eek:

I have chrome monkey bars and new stainless cables and chrome switch housings. I am waiting on the PYO race levers to complete my parts list and I will begin the process as well. I don't look forward to internal wiring but, it will be worth it when they are done. I'm going to knock out the axle, sliders and slider covers at the same time. I got the PYO black yaxle, OEM black sliders and the PYO black yafterburner slider covers. I think it will look great.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Good luck Neano. They are going to look great. That stretch kit makes the bike look incredible. Is that $2700 if PYO does it? Of course it looks better if you put a 23" or 26" up front after the stretch and those wheels aren't cheap:eek:

I have chrome monkey bars and new stainless cables and chrome switch housings. I am waiting on the PYO race levers to complete my parts list and I will begin the process as well. I don't look forward to internal wiring but, it will be worth it when they are done. I'm going to knock out the axle, sliders and slider covers at the same time. I got the PYO black yaxle, OEM black sliders and the PYO black yafterburner slider covers. I think it will look great.:D
Yes, Paul said total labor @ $75.00 p/hr. it takes 20 hrs. to complete the cut and stretch. Then ya got the kit that Baggernation sells to do the job, plus he rattled off a couple other things,... rite under $2,700.00. I helped my bud put the TBW thru tonite. will go over 2morrow and help finish the job. We are using a mini shop vac, to suck twine thru the bar, then tapeing up wires and pulling thru. Not bad job with 2 people. My bud had the little prong tool to get the douche connector apart, LOL! and Yaffe sent direction, like 8 or 9 pages of step by step instruction with wire coloring and coding for hook up info after ya run internal wire thru the bars. Yafterburner Upper Fork Sliders, along with matching lower fork sliders, black or chrome,... are a X-cellent look. IMHO. Yaxle is definatly a nice touch to complete the Look. I will purchase some Yafterburner x-haust tips for my Reinharts and Power Mirrors to match my wedgy lites that will be in filla strips for a complete look this year.Yaffe also mentioned that they are in the process of making Wedgy Floorboards, foward and rear. So there will be little things that I will be adding along the way. Good Luck with your Surgery that your about to perform! IMHO. LOL! If I can be of any help let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good luck with the wiring. I wired up my old Fatboy with 16's internally and it was a PITA. And that is without cruise or radio wiring. Patience and lube...wait what am I talking about??
Patience and lube and Ice Cold Butwipers! LOL! LOL! Shuweeee! Along with the Cruise and Stereo and TBW, there are 20 wires on the right side and 12 wires on the left. Another Ice Cold Butwiper,... Please! I found it easier if ya have a couple of those first,...then spray the Lube! Patience will follow. LOL! LOL! Then hollar like a HOG when it goes thru. Thank You Super Moderator!
 

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Yes, Paul said total labor @ $75.00 p/hr. it takes 20 hrs. to complete the cut and stretch. Then ya got the kit that Baggernation sells to do the job, plus he rattled off a couple other things,... rite under $2,700.00. I helped my bud put the TBW thru tonite. will go over 2morrow and help finish the job. We are using a mini shop vac, to suck twine thru the bar, then tapeing up wires and pulling thru. Not bad job with 2 people. My bud had the little prong tool to get the douche connector apart, LOL! and Yaffe sent direction, like 8 or 9 pages of step by step instruction with wire coloring and coding for hook up info after ya run internal wire thru the bars. Yafterburner Upper Fork Sliders, along with matching lower fork sliders, black or chrome,... are a X-cellent look. IMHO. Yaxle is definatly a nice touch to complete the Look. I will purchase some Yafterburner x-haust tips for my Reinharts and Power Mirrors to match my wedgy lites that will be in filla strips for a complete look this year.Yaffe also mentioned that they are in the process of making Wedgy Floorboards, foward and rear. So there will be little things that I will be adding along the way. Good Luck with your Surgery that your about to perform! IMHO. LOL! If I can be of any help let me know.
I thought it would cost more than that. I look forward to seeing the completed project. Paul will be in Austin at the ROT Rally in June. He always brings some of his new bikes and all of his parts. This year they are having an entire bagger section at the rally with parts. I am looking forward to seeing what is available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Enough about the sex already,,, just show us the baby!
Enough is not enough!LOL! but any-way... Should of took camera last nite, so ya would of got a better idea of how the Vacum works, pulling the string up thru the bars, so ya can tape your wires to it, and pull them back thru. But when I went back over to my buds hse. today he had wrapped the job up and home I came to get these "babys" ( thank you Super Moderator) on to get a jump on 2morrow, so I can take alittle putt! Everything went back on a H*ll of alot easier than it came off! Had to go buy a Manuel to find out how the Ignition Switch came off. Will get some final shots 2morrow, but I'm dign it so far! Just Brake line and Clutch cable is all ya see. I asked Yaffe x-actly how ya measure these bars. He said from the middle of the riser, to the middle of the grip. If that is so,... I'm gettn 12". Had plenty of wire left though. Ran TBW thru the middle of the bars and rite controls went thru the rite, out the bottom, and left went thru the left, and out the bottom. Used Vasoline for Lube. All the wires went back x-actly the way it came out, and no xtra wire or wires were needed. So if these are 12" bars, they were advertised as 10" OEM Monkey Bars.
 

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Those look so great, can you share the part # you ordered so I can make sure to get the right ones 10" or 12"? I want to tallest I can do without changing wires or cables.

I do not understand the wires going through the bottom corners of the bars. I thought everything went theough the middle?
 

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Those look so great, can you share the part # you ordered so I can make sure to get the right ones 10" or 12"? I want to tallest I can do without changing wires or cables.

I do not understand the wires going through the bottom corners of the bars. I thought everything went theough the middle?
The monkey bars have 3 holes in the bottom. 1 in the middle and one right and left. You can choose to run everything through the middle hole for complete hidden wiring or run the switch wiring through the right and left holes as Neano did. I just measured mine which are not on the bike and I get 10 1/2" from center of grip to middle of the knurled portion that clamps in the riser. I ordered 10" which Paul said he sold 100:1 over any other size. They must vary a little. The part # is OEMB or OEMB-B which only signifies chrome or black and the size is what you tell them. It looks like you could get 12" according to Neano with no wire extensions. Not sure about the cables. That may be pushing it. I'll bet Paul will tell you if you call. He has been very helpful when I have talked to him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Those look so great, can you share the part # you ordered so I can make sure to get the right ones 10" or 12"? I want to tallest I can do without changing wires or cables.

I do not understand the wires going through the bottom corners of the bars. I thought everything went theough the middle?
OEM Original Monkey Bars 10" . Thats what it says. Every bar is custom made. With that being said,... I think all that is made, no 2 will measure the same. I'll take some close ups 2morrow and put a ruler next to them so ya can check out the measurements.When I talked to Yaffe on Friday, he said he had 10" in stock.I didnt run everything thru the middle cause I was paranoid about not having enough wire. But if these are 12" bars,?... I didnt have to replace my brake line or clutch cable.
 

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Thats coming along nicely. The wires normally run the biggest part of the project, aside from the daum ignition switch, and on that note this is a nice trick. Once you depress the button on the bottom of the switch you can have it held in the up position by inserting your key into the ignition and turning it counter clockwise, while turning the switch This keeps you from having to hold the button in from underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thats coming along nicely. The wires normally run the biggest part of the project, aside from the daum ignition switch, and on that note this is a nice trick. Once you depress the button on the bottom of the switch you can have it held in the up position by inserting your key into the ignition and turning it counter clockwise, while turning the switch This keeps you from having to hold the button in from underneath.
Thanks Sincecrazy. I'm definatly no Mechanic. This is the first time I've ever really took the time to add things to my bike myself, like my Amp and speakers, wheels. So I'm learnig as I go and am enjoying it just as much. Labor cost aint cheap! By doing it myself, am able to spend more money on what I want to get for my bike.Thanks for the tip on the ignition switch, I think it says the same in the manuel I bought,still not sure what I did was rite,LOL, but it came out and went back in,so,.. I'm sure I'll SMASH my finger again, the next time! OUCH! LOL! Appreciate the Support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Buttoned Up and on the Road

Fairing gave me fits going back on. Got it hooked by the Headlites, no problem. COULD NOT get the left turn signal back bolt in, thats got the little round flange on it. Took fairing off and on 3 times to try to see if I was hitting wires or ANYTHING! Just wasnt my day,?... I guess. I tryed to put a Tape Measure, Put it this way I did put a Tape Measure against these today and got a WAY longer measure than 12"s. But these have got to measure more than 10"s.
 

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Man that looks so clean with the wires not showing. Damn you Neano,.. now I'm gonna have to think twice about not running my wires internally. I love the pinstriping on the bike to,.. very nice touch!

That is a sweet looking bike! Are you running 18"'s or are those bigger?
 
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