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oberon adjustable levers

11K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  bosshogg123 
#1 ·
so i've read about the oberon clutch levers on and off for a while, and while i'm pretty much used to how far out the friction zone is on my clutch (i have had this bike for over 4 years :D), i've always been bothered by it. this year, i bought a set of heated gloves for the winter, and since they are bulkier than my standard gloves, i really felt that having the friction point closer to the grip would be a lot better.

based on a couple of other threads, i bought the oberon adjustable clutch lever from http://www.hogleverage.com found their service to be good. kept me well informed, and shipped pretty quickly. even got it a day earlier than expected. if you order black lever with the black knob, you get free shipping.

a quick 5 minute install (only because i had to file down the tips of my snap ring pliers) and the lever is on. took a quick test ride and first impressions are very favorable. the only downside is that even though there are 5 or 6 adjustment positions, you really can only use 2, maybe 3 of them.

the adjustment is easy enough to do that i can see adjusting it in closer when you have a need to do a lot of clutching (slow speed, stop n go traffic, etc.) but then adjust it back out further when you get back to normal ops. i initially rode it on the 3rd adjustment, and i did have some resistance in the clutch/tranny when downshifting to make a u turn. one click out, and was not noticeable anymore, full clutch disengagement.

here's a couple of pics, the first pic shows the new lever laid over in relation to the stock lever without any adjustment made. the 2nd pic is on the 2nd click. one thing to notice is that the blade of the lever is a bit shorter than stock, but i didn't notice it on the quick test ride. if you have large hands, you may notice it more.
 

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#2 ·
Just bought a set for my 17 RGU; I’ll be installing them next week along with some new bars and other goodies...


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#5 ·
depends on how your arthritis is affecting your hands. it doesn't really make the effort any less, but it does bring the lever closer to your grip which means you don't have to extend your fingers as far.
 
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#7 ·
well, the edge cut levers from hd are $160 for a set. so yeah, these are a little more expensive, but so far i'm pretty happy with it. i only bought the clutch lever now, probably at some point in the future, i'll get the brake lever as well. but not as much as a hurry for that.
 
#9 ·
Just ordered clutch and break today... I have been on the fence for a while but, I am noticing on my clutch hand the lever hits me right at the third finger joint and it bothers me so OK, I pulled the trigger. There went some of my 180 front tire funds but, this I think will be very beneficial for me right now.
 
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#10 ·
I continue to watch this thread with interest, as the only mods I have focused on with my new RGU relate to fitment, particular to my 5’7” frame. It looks like I can get a pair of levers designed to help out gripping with a smaller hand, that also reduce the travel distance before friction, and spend about half the money I would just to order the adjustable clutch lever. I didn’t want to specify any brands, as there are several out there that improve the reach, but can the problem be solved with this kind of lever?
 
#12 ·
Best changes I made on both the 2016 and 2017 were the adjustable Clutch lever and the extended brake pedal. As for the clutch I have plenty large enough hands but I want the engagement close to the grip. The adjustable lever did that for me.
 
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#14 ·
I am very inexperienced compared to so many on this forum, and about all I can do is ask questions until something makes sense to me, and a couple of things still give me questions. One, to WHATEVER extent a lever lessens the travel to friction, wouldn’t that be a significant improvement to the problem of friction not happening until the final 3rd of the travel? If it improves that, and makes it easier for me to grip, it makes me want to spend a lot less money. The other thing that is bothering me, is that there was one comment that the setting on the adjustable clutch lever had to be moved one notch, otherwise he could not start the bike if it was in gear with the clutch pulled in. Wouldn’t that mean that there had to be some, yes maybe minimal, but some clutch friction present, and wouldn’t that be a long term issue?
 
#15 ·
I had to remove mine. Hoglevers told me up front that there may e an issue with starting if the bike was not in neutral. I was OK with that because I always start in neutral anyway. I liked position 2 best.

I began having stalling problems. As I would come to a stop, such as at a red light or stop sign, the motor would stall. I brought it to the dealer and they identified the problem as the aftermarket clutch lever. I then changed to position 3 and still had the problem. I didn't want to go to position 4, because my paperwork says that equivalent to the stock position.

I ended up with a Softbrake Reduced Reach clutch lever. It was 1/3 the cost of the Oberon, unless you don't send back your original lever; then there is a core charge. What Softbrake has done is to bend the handle on the Harley Clutch lever. Its not exactly where I would like it to be, but it is much better than the stock position. Because it is a Harley lever, I don't have issues with the aftermarket parts. I can start the bike in gear and I no longer have a stalling problem.
 
#16 · (Edited)
whatever works. if i had of known about the soft brake before hand, i might have gone that route. i am a cheap bastard, and if i can get the job done with less money, i'm all for it.

though i can say that i don't seem to be having the problem that you were having.

but then again, maybe not. after having gone to their website, the reduced reach clutch lever for my bike is 1/2 the cost, only comes in polished only (mine is black), and after reading their description, it is a full inch. that may be too much, with the oberon i get the adjustability to change it to where i like it, and where it is still for enough out to allow the clutch to operate fully and not have any difficulty in shifting.
 
#18 ·
Because HD changed the Clutch master cyl for 2017 as of now only 1 company makes an adjustable lever that fits 2017. That is the reason for the high cost. I had a different brand on the 2016 that worked well at half the cost. Do not confuse reach with what the adjustable lever does. However with an adjustable lever. That dead travel you have is move from the point where you let the clutch out to the end. So it does make it easier for many with hand issues to use. The adjustable lever allows you to change the engagement point of the clutch.
From many bring the taht closer to the grip does make life a lot of comfortable and allows for better control of the clutch when riding real slow.
Changing the brake lever is no really necessary .
Before HYD clutch many of us adjust the turn back on the clutch 3/4 turn vs 1/2 to move the engage meant point closer to the grip, with HYD we could no longer make that change. With Adjustable levers we can.
 
#19 ·
So I installed these, question, now I can not start my bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. What did I do wrong?


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#24 ·
I put the stock one on and it starts right up. I did notice the tension bar on the roller is now broken but, it still worked with the stock lever.


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#26 ·
Ok I’m am a knucklehead. I only saw three positions well there are seven. Once I put it up a couple of more positions it works just fine. I have to give a huge shout out to coast fabrication. I sent them an email and within a few minutes I got a call from Tim and now I am set. Thanks for all the assistance.


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#27 ·
So, I’ve been running the Oberons, clutch and brake, for a couple weeks now. Did they do what I hoped? Yes and then some. I set them on 2, and it is hard to describe how perfectly they fit, finally feel like I’m in control of the bike, especially at slow speeds.

Here is my big issue. Most complaints I read about are that the bike won’t start in gear unless the lever is in position 4 or higher. I read one post that his bike starts in any lever position when in gear. Well, mine won’t start in gear in ANY position of the lever. Can someone help me get to where I can start in gear if in postition 2? I really like to be able to have that option, as I like to back into parking spaces so I’m pulling out going up the incline. I like to leave the bike in gear so I just pull in the clutch, press my foot brake, start engine and release clutch as I release brake.
 
#29 ·
sounds like you are not having a problem with the lever, but with the clutch interlock safety switch. it's a lot like that little brake light switch on the right hand side, only on the left. if it gets broken, and not being depressed when you pull the clutch in, then you're bike won't start.
 
#28 ·
Bought the Oberons (both clutch and brake) for Christmas and just got around to installing them today, along with my extended brake pedal. The clutch lever was very easy to install - the brake lever installation was more involved. Took the bike out for a ride with both set at 4. At this setting the clutch friction zone is a bit better and the brake is about the same as stock. Will try both set at 3 next ride. The lever shape is much different than stock with most of the grip-able part pushed out towards the end of the lever when compared to stock because the adjustment cam takes up the inner part of the lever. Where my index finger would grip on the stock grip, the Oberons have the adjustment cam. Found myself using middle, third and pinky fingers to pull lever. No problem starting in gear.
 
#30 ·
Mine won't start in gear on 2 but will in 3. I run clutch on 3 and brake on 5. I've read that the M8 bikes are having issues with the clutch switch. Did it start in gear with the stock lever? If you are having problems in all positions it's an install problem or your switch is bad.
 
#32 ·
I agree. I wish the lever was longer. I love the adjustability for moving the friction zone, but cannot get a comfortable position on the lever for shifting. The best option for me is to use my middle, ring and pinky fingers to shift, but that just doesn't feel good.
 
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