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Discussion Starter #1
Had some noise in the primary for awhile, whining or whirling, something like that. Took it to my Indy this morning and was informed a broken crankshaft. Got a quote to fix it and when it hit $1100 this, $1300 that, my ears closed off. Would appreciate any advice on what or what not to do. 2013 Road Glide 16,500 miles. Anything else to do while it's opened up and what parts to use?
 

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Well, now would be the time to upgrade to an S&S crank, or a reman one from Darkhorse. Unless you look for a used motor or takeout motor. I saw a 2016 Road Glide motor on Craigslist the other day for like $2500, and I think they said it had like 16 miles on it, so there's options out there, just pick the one that fits your budget. Even if you do get a stock replacement crank, think about having it trued and welded by Darkhorse.
Lil Chief
 
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bigb64 on here sold his 2016 103" engine for $1800 I think it was last week, definitely look into a used or new takeoff before spending thousands on repair unless you upgrade crank & go the 117" route.
 

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Didn't think of a used engine and found one for $1699 with 15k on it. Might go that route and have some spare heads for later mods. Y'all think swapping engines would be a hair more frugal ? Haven't discussed that option with my Indy but will in the morning.
 

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Didn't think of a used engine and found one for $1699 with 15k on it. Might go that route and have some spare heads for later mods. Y'all think swapping engines would be a hair more frugal ? Haven't discussed that option with my Indy but will in the morning.
I honestly think its a smarter move financially, as long as the new motor is in good shape. Probably cheaper in labor to just swap the motor too. As you said, there's gonna be some parts from the old motor that you can use in the future. You'll probably have less down time with just swapping the motor as well. If I were to purchase a used motor, I'd have your indy do a leak down test on it, and maybe bore scope the cylinders to see what the pistons and cylinders look like. Some dealerships have brand new take out motors sitting in the back room too. Some people upgrade right to a 120" before they even take delivery of their bikes. That might be another option.
Lil Chief
 

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There are low or no mile take out 103 motors available. If your not pressed for time, I wouldn't jump on the first motor you find. Take your time and find that gem out there.

Anyway, best of luck getting back in the wind
 
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Had some noise in the primary for awhile, whining or whirling, something like that. Took it to my Indy this morning and was informed a broken crankshaft. Got a quote to fix it and when it hit $1100 this, $1300 that, my ears closed off. Would appreciate any advice on what or what not to do. 2013 Road Glide 16,500 miles. Anything else to do while it's opened up and what parts to use?
You had a noise in the primary for "a while"? What exactly is broke? That doesn't sound like a crank. Crank would be bad vibration or a number of other things nut whirring in the primary doesn't sound right. Does it?
 

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There are low or no mile take out 103 motors available. If your not pressed for time, I wouldn't jump on the first motor you find. Take your time and find that gem out there.

Anyway, best of luck getting back in the wind
Agree...locally there are '16 motors with 0 miles for 2K to 4000 miles for 1600..they are out there...not sure of mississipi...then theres Hillsides customer..that may be interesting if youre into 110....personally I'd opt for the 103...

It is odd at 16K miles for a crankshaft to go?..geez...esertwndrr may have a point, maybe a second opinion...

Your ride is disassembled at the shop? Is the motor out What's the charge for the diagnosis? Best of luck, hope it all works out for you...
 

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" That doesn't sound like a crank."

Agree. I'd get another opinion. Compensator more likely. Could be both comp and the auto chain adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Going to talk to them shortly and will fill yall in later. Yes, 16,500 miles busted crank, couldn't believe it. Exactly how would you confirm busted crank, I'm no mechanic? Heads split and bottom end opened or what? Please excuse my ignorance but this might get costly...
 

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That is a wet head motor, would not work in older models without the radiators.
You can still get air cooled Rushmore motors. My 15 is air cooled.
I'm curious to see what the indys exact diagnosis is concerning the crank. Whether it shifted and the excess runout took out the bearings or what. Heavy engine braking can cause a crank to shift at any mileage.
Lil Chief
 

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I would ask some questions about how they diagnosed a broken crank. Is it scissored? Is the runout out of spec? If so how much? I would get them to tell me exactly what is wrong in detail not just the crank is busted. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but there should be noticeable unusual vibration if the crank is shot. I would have to get a second opinion on this one. I blew a crank and a motor in the 1980s and it was pretty danged obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Was told 8 crank side splines are fractured, worn compensator and needs a fly wheel assembly. They wanted to show me yesterday but I wasn't driving back. I told them to put it back together and I rode it home today. Quote to fix it is $2622, S&S flywheel assembly, S/E bearing, pin bearing, G/k kit, pist ret 4 (whatever that is) primary bearing, oil, filter, case bearing removal and labor. I don't know exactly what i'll do but but this sux. Probably will eventually do it and slap some cams in while I'm at it. Thanks for the advice everyone.
 

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My 15 Special has what is considered a HO engine. Wet heads have slightly more compression.
 

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Was told 8 crank side splines are fractured, worn compensator and needs a fly wheel assembly. They wanted to show me yesterday but I wasn't driving back. I told them to put it back together and I rode it home today. Quote to fix it is $2622, S&S flywheel assembly, S/E bearing, pin bearing, G/k kit, pist ret 4 (whatever that is) primary bearing, oil, filter, case bearing removal and labor. I don't know exactly what i'll do but but this sux. Probably will eventually do it and slap some cams in while I'm at it. Thanks for the advice everyone.
Not to beat a dead horse, but I would be interested if they could tell me what caused it. Absent drag racing, wheelies, etc., a good bet would be excessive crank runout.
 

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I'd be interested in knowing what caused it as well. Unless it got really really hot, and the crank got brittle, but I'd think the comp would give out first. Unless it did and it continued to bounce back and forth on the splines for an extended period of time, and eventually fractured the splines. Interesting for sure. Hoping someone that has seen this before will chime in with the suspected cause. If it was on the cam side, I imagine a loose pinion gear beating the splines could do it as well.
Lil Chief
 

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All good suggestions here.

A new S&S crank is okay but not knowing the cause and possible other damages, I would probably just go for an S&S engine and fix the 103 and sell it.

Hope it all works out.?
 
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