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Discussion Starter #1
I have had this persistent oil leak since new, and it seems to be getting a bit worse now. 1850 miles on the bike (the WX has been terrible here since I bought it in mid-Feb)

It appears to be leaking from the rear case seem then running down and spreading.

The pics below are from about 125 miles of drive time. Engine used since the 1k service is the HD Syn3.

The dealer wants to split the cases to reseal, and has asked if I wanted any engine "upgrades" since the labor would be basically free.

This is the main question here...What to do, if anything? I am more interested in reliability than max power output, and not really interested in it being super load, but I was planning at least a stage one tune and pipe to delete the CAT to lower temps and get a bit of performance boost. Obviously none of that requires splitting the cases. I've read about cams and crank welding-but it's all very overwhelming and I'm trying to learn all I can.

This is my first Harley, I come from Gold Wings that never leaked a drop, so I am a bit disappointed in this-all other aspects of the bike are fantastic, but having to do this major repair that has the potential to lead to even more problems has me a bit pissed at the moment :mad:
 

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My 12 RG did the same thing,they pulled the rear cly and filled the gap with case sealer without splitting the cases.Bike had 1200 miles on it when this was done traded it in with 30,000 on it and it stayed dry.As far as up grades i would consider having the crank welded and and balanced at this time,the rushmores run pretty strong as is,the head pipe and air cleaner would be a good option with a flash.
 

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You're under warranty, so I'd let them do what they're going to do. Frederick's got a decent service department, and Battley's gotten much better over the past few years.

I would't worry about doing any upgrades.
 

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I will hit 5000 miles by next weekend. No leaks yet. :grin:

I am only making comfort mods to this bike. Not sure if it is a long term ride yet.
 

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KennyD,

I'd suggest having the flywheels trued and welded if you are going into it that far. Maybe the Timkin upgrade, but certainly the "hefty lefty" bearing upgrade, whichever is easiest. Those are both piece of mind issues and fairly inexpensive.

If they are willing to do the labor for free then you have plenty of performance upgrades to consider. It all just depends on budget. If it were me, I'd suggest building up a 117" if you can swing it but that isn't cheap.
 

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Uhh, guys......Kenny's got a stock bike and is planning on doing a Stage 1 at some point. Welding/truing the crank and the Timken conversions are going to run him upwards of $1,200, have his bike off the road for at least 10 days, and are completely unnecessary for what he's got planned.
 

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Agree welding & truing the crank isn't necessary for a 103 with stage 1 upgrades.
I would look carefully at the leak, the pictures make it hard to determine where the leak is coming from but to me it looks as if the cylinder base gasket is the source of the leak.
It is not uncommon for the cylinder base gasket to leak even on a new engine, the main reason the cylinder base gasket leaks is because the o-ring was over oiled during assembly, in most cases the leak is just the excess oil seeping out from under the cylinder and it will stop over time. If the base gasket is the source of the leak there is no need to split the crankcase.
The bike is under warranty so let the dealer address the repair but the only performance mod I would consider is a cam upgrade even though the stock 103 HO cam isn't too bad of a cam and adjustable push rods.
 

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Don't be too pissed. NW as they will fix it. Shit happens. Leave it stock as the reliability is what your after. That engine will get you where you want to go and back as fast as you need to go!
Ride it as stock and enjoy. Do your stage one; ride it and enjoy! Then in the future if your not happy with the performance, push the performance. But out of the box it does perform well.
My 15 had a pinced o ring at assembly. Showed tge leak at 100 miles. They fixed it then and there and now at 10,000 its just a memory. ENJOY IT AS IT IS.
 

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Uhh, guys......Kenny's got a stock bike and is planning on doing a Stage 1 at some point. Welding/truing the crank and the Timken conversions are going to run him upwards of $1,200, have his bike off the road for at least 10 days, and are completely unnecessary for what he's got planned.
And I've had a stock CVO bottom end scissor. Putting a small amount of money in that bottom end will provide a solid foundation should he decide to upgrade the motor down the road.
 

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I can't believe train actually said leave it alone! He finally listened to what I say!

Fix it and leave alone, the more you do the more you create other problems, just my 2 cents


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You're under warranty, so I'd let them do what they're going to do. Frederick's got a decent service department, and Battley's gotten much better over the past few years.

I would't worry about doing any upgrades.
Thanks.
FYI I have been dealing with Gettysburg/Battlefield on this, they are a bit closer, a lot easier for me to get to, and every time I call Fredneck for something (like my 1K service) they tell me they can't get me in for 2 weeks or more whereas Gettysburg is the next day.

In fact the other day (Thursday) I just stopped in while on a ride to show then how it's appears to be getting worse and they took it back right away, cleaned it up, and test rode it-and saw the leak just starting at the top of the seam under the jug so I am hoping it is just that seal and the case halves won't need to be split.

Uhh, guys......Kenny's got a stock bike and is planning on doing a Stage 1 at some point. Welding/truing the crank and the Timken conversions are going to run him upwards of $1,200, have his bike off the road for at least 10 days, and are completely unnecessary for what he's got planned.
Don't be too pissed. NW as they will fix it. Shit happens. Leave it stock as the reliability is what your after. That engine will get you where you want to go and back as fast as you need to go!
Ride it as stock and enjoy. Do your stage one; ride it and enjoy! Then in the future if your not happy with the performance, push the performance. But out of the box it does perform well.
My 15 had a pinced o ring at assembly. Showed tge leak at 100 miles. They fixed it then and there and now at 10,000 its just a memory. ENJOY IT AS IT IS.
I can't believe train actually said leave it alone! He finally listened to what I say!

Fix it and leave alone, the more you do the more you create other problems, just my 2 cents
Thanks guys, I am really leaning this way right now!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And I've had a stock CVO bottom end scissor. Putting a small amount of money in that bottom end will provide a solid foundation should he decide to upgrade the motor down the road.
I will talk to them about this, if the case has to be split I will find out how much time and money having the crank welded/balanced will add.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Agree welding & truing the crank isn't necessary for a 103 with stage 1 upgrades.
I would look carefully at the leak, the pictures make it hard to determine where the leak is coming from but to me it looks as if the cylinder base gasket is the source of the leak.
It is not uncommon for the cylinder base gasket to leak even on a new engine, the main reason the cylinder base gasket leaks is because the o-ring was over oiled during assembly, in most cases the leak is just the excess oil seeping out from under the cylinder and it will stop over time. If the base gasket is the source of the leak there is no need to split the crankcase.
The bike is under warranty so let the dealer address the repair but the only performance mod I would consider is a cam upgrade even though the stock 103 HO cam isn't too bad of a cam and adjustable push rods.
I've heard your "it might stop over time" theory before, even the mechanic at the dealer said that to me the first time I reported this but it seems to be getting worse, and not better.

The "base gasket" leaking as you call it would be the best scenario at this point, I think anyway. And from what I saw the other day right after they cleaned and test rode I am thinking that might be the issue after all.

As for the cams/pushrods, this may be a stupid question but they can be done without MAJOR engine surgery no?
 

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If the tech has to tear down the top end to replace the cylinder base gasket (which is just a rubber o-ring) then he will have to pull the exhaust off the bike pull the pushrods out anyways. The only other work needed would be in the cam chest which is easy to get to once the other parts mention have been removed.
You can have adjustable pushrods installed and and leave the stock cams in the bike that way the cam chest will not have to be opened up.
If you decide on doing a cam upgrade or need lifter R&R in the future you will only need to remove the exhaust and pull the adjustable pushrods without having to pull the top of the engine down. On a side note the exhaust doesn't need to be removed for lifter R&R.
 

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Fully loaded for a trip, I have zero trouble putting distance between me and the cagers. Even roll ons to leave a cluster of cagers is no issue. I would not say the bike is under powered, or in need of performance upgrades.
 

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NOS !!!













Or leave it be for the Stage 1........your call really (Editors Note, NOS Comment is total sarcasm and in no way to be interpreted as serious)
 
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