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2012 CVO Road Glide with 110CI engine
When I ride hard oil spatters show up on the engine and pipes behind the intake area. This only occurs with pushing the rpm's or highway running 85 to90 mph. Is this normal or is there something wrong. Seems to run good.
 

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I have a '12 RG CVO and it does not do that, I push 80 to 90 regularly ... actually all da time ?
 

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My 110 & 113 did it ~ saturated the air filter and then would drip.... The cause is crankcase pressure ~ not sure of the cure. Scott or one of the builders may be able to provide some solutions. The 124 does not do it ~ apparently S&S has figured out how to vent the crankcase....
 

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I see some guys say if you add oil to the middle of the full area instead of the top of the mark , it will help considerably.
 

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++ on oil level. Check it when the engine is hot. If any blow-by, and anywhere close to top of full, use a kitchen baster and pull a little out. We have a tendency to think more is better.
 

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I have a 2012 RGU and it's been puking oil since about the 1000 mile mark (now has 10,000) and everytime I talked to the dealer they just kept tell me to much oil, to much oil take some out. I did what said each time and it just never stopped even with the oil level 3 notches below the mid point. Finally the end of June this year the factory warr. was almost up and I just said do something. They went thru the top twice an each time it was good for about 200-300 miles and would start again. The second time was just before I left for a 3000 mile trip out east and the frist day was good, second day it started puking again. Got home three weeks ago dropped it off and said call it a lemon or fix. They went thru the motor from top to bottom and could find nothing wrong, tried to call it operator error. This past Tue they called The Motor Co and they gave them some things to check---turns out both cylinders are egg shaped. So new jugs and rings are on order. So, point being have your dealer do a leak down test you may have a bad jug. Hope this helps.
 

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I had the same problem with my 2011 Road King. It had nothing to do with the oil level but the oil return. The dealer said that some bikes do it when being rode hard and or long. They bored the return a bit larger and it still happened but not as much.
 

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oil leak

remove air cleaner and check air vent screws and hoses that vent the cylinders into the air cleaner... if the screws are loose oil will come out behind the air cleaner onto the pipes i put blue lock tight on the screws and this stopped the problem(no more oil on the pipes)
 

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Thanks Kudu40
Along with new jugs and rings they went thru the oil pump (new o-rings) , cam plate (new o-rings), checked the Fly wheel for run out and enlarged the returns. It was still doing the same thing. Last time it was in they enlarged the stage 1 back plate breathers holes and ground channels across the breather holes at about 45 degree angles to try and route oil blow by to the throttle body throat for burning. More or less making it a Arlan Ness Big Sucker AC, and this was a Motor Co authorized repair. Asked if they were tiring to turn it into an oil injected two cycle now or just mask the problem and call it repaired. Oh and by the way this didn't solve the problem. An even if this would have solved the problem it seems to me a lot of oil would be sucked into the intake and over time there would be a lot of carbon build up inside the motor causing other problems. It was in one more time before it went into storage and the Motor Co said I needed to put a thousand miles on it after the last repairs to see what happens. I got 500 miles on it this fall and they agreed to continue this issue next spring.
 

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Thanks danko
The HD Stage 1 doesn't have those hoses. And that's where some of the problem comes in. The oil doesn't get sucked into the throttle body from the hoses, instead if there's enough oil coming out it runs down the backing plate and comes out the bottom of the filter. I've thought about tiring to thread the breather holes and put a fitting with hoses just facing into the throttle body. Don't know if it would work but more concerned something comes loose and gets sucked into the intake.
 

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Good luck. Hope they found your problem. Let us know after you have a good amount of time on the latest theory from the HD brain trust.
 

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Before you spend money on stuff to try and fix it: have a leak down test performed to see if it's within specs. If it is try just filling the oil to about 3 or 4 bars below the full line. My mechanic did that for me and problem solved. I can ride as hard as I want now with no blow-by and I didn't spend a dime. If yours still does it then look into the products these guys have mentioned.
 

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In most cases the problem is too much oil in the engine! 3 1/2 qts is all that needs to be put in when doing a oil change.
If the problem is still there then the problem in most cases will be in the umbrella valves that are part of the crankcase vent in the cylinder heads.
The umbrella valves are an easy DIY fix if you have too do the work yourself for those that don't have a warranty anymore .
 

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Thanks RGKen
There have been three leak down tests done. The first one the dealer did showed OK. The second one the Motor Co told them how they wanted it done and that's when the egg shaped cyls showed up. An than jugs and rings were replaced. Along the way a third test was preformed just to check things.
The dealer has done the last 3 oil changes and I think their some of the problem because the bike comes out 2 notches below the hot full mark when it's on the side and cold. I ask them about it and they say leave it. Then I ride it and it's puking oil. Then I'm just pissed and I pull the oil level down to where it's supposed to be when it's cold. But I think by than the sponges in the rocker boxes are so saturated with oil I don't know if they can dry out.
I serviced the bike last week for storage and I just put 2-1/2 quarts of oil in it and it's 4 notches below the midpoint on the dip stick. So we'll see what happens in the spring.
I talked to the techs at S&S to see if they have a better AC set up and he asked what had been done to the bike so we went over all of that and they said maybe the fly wheel has too much run out, but the dealer says it's with-in specs. So he told me to drain the oil and put in 2 quarts and run it if it doesn't spit any oil keep adding some till it does and then reduce the level some. In the end they said some of the HD's just don't like a lot of oil in them and only 10 oz of oil is up in the motor at any given time so even 2 quarts is enough for the motor to be happy.
 

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Thanks ironmark
The umbrella valves have been checked and replace and than rechecked. Dealer says there good to go.
 

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There are no sponges in the rocker boxes! There is a filter pad which is part of the umbrella valve assembly. The dealer may not be installing the umbrella valves correctly.
Don't do what the dealer said running the engine 1 1/2 qts of oil LOW :eek: is not a good idea, I don't know where that dealer got that idea.
I would change the oil and put in 3 or 3 1/4 qts and run it there and see what happens. Make sure to clean the air filter so there is no oil in it except for the oil you use if you run a K&N filter that requires oil.
I use 3 1/2 qts of oil in my 08 and I can run it hard and not have any oil in the air filter but if I run the oil too high it will get oil in the air filter and drip on the cam cover.
I did have a little oil in the air filter when the umbrella valves got weak but I replaced them and the problem went away.
If your cylinders were egged shaped you wouldn't have oil in the air filter anyways, the oil would blow by the rings and burn and exit out the exhaust, the same would be true if your valve seals were bad except that the oil will drip into the cylinder from the top. The only way for the oil to enter the air filter is through the crankcase vent, the only other way for oil to get in the air filter would be if there was something wrong with the rocker box gasket where it seals the crankcase vent channel, but if this was the case you should see oil on the outside of the cylinders because oil would drip from the bottom of the rocker box.
It may be better to ride the bike and just let the oil drip until it stops then check the oil level that way you know where your bikes oil happy spot is ;)
 
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