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Discussion Starter #1
On the 27th i was riding home to Chicago from Manitowoc, Wisconsin. The first half of the day was storms and cold, but down by Chicago it was 98 degrees and I was trapped in stop and go traffic for quite a while. I heard what I initially thought was valve clatter, then thought was engine knock. Not cool.

Then I noticed a loping idle and that my voltmeter was reading around 12.5, ranging up to 13.7 when under load. Crap. I kept a sharp eye on it, and then 20 minutes later it begged at 11.2, my check engine light came on as well as the red battery light. Crap.

I made it home, turned it off, let it sit for a few, and then restarted the bike. I fired, but not happily. I shut it down, let it be for 3 hours and then checked it again. This time it fired up like nothing was wrong. No more check engine light, voltmeter reading normal, no more loping / fluctuating idle, nothing.

Do I test it out and if it's ok, just put it down to overheating? Opinions?
 

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The first thing I would do especially if your not running synthetic oil, is change the oil.

Second off you did not mention what year bike any mods.

Personally I would change the oil and see what happens, if it everything runs fine I would leave it alone, if not then I would check into it.
 

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What year is your bike? The loping should be the heat management system kicking in, the heat management feature will shut down the rear cylinder so there is less heat produced. The bike will be running on the front cylinder only and it will sound like it, as soon as you give the bike some throttle the rear cylinder will start firing again. Overheating the engine will cause a spark knock situation and when you hear that it would be time to pull over and let the bike cool. Last year I went through Chicago and got caught in stop & go traffic and it was near 100 degrees outside, the oil temps on my bike went up to 267 degrees, I changed the oil & filter the next day, I run Mobil 1 20w50 v-twin oil and I believe that the synthetic oil helped protect the engine. Your bike should be just fine IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have an '06, so there's no EITMS system (I think that's what the "run on one cylinder" thing is called). I have slip ons, and nothing else, so I'm probably lean to begin with and that's not good for heat, I know. Bike was like that when I bought it. I plan on doing the air filter and a Power Commander over the winter. Not sure if the ECU has been reflashed; I bought the bike used.

I'm not on synthetic, and I plan to change the oil and filter today. After this change I'm probably going to go to AMSOil or Mobil-1 synthetic. I'll put another 5 K or so on between now and the end of the year (I hope).
 

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until you can get another tuner you might want to check the Xied's from Nightrider
I have not used them ( my 01 has a carb) but have heard good things about them making the bike run better /less lean .

Eagle
 

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You would be surprised at the amount of abuse these engines can actually take (concerning heat).

I would change all of the fluids and than give it a test ride to see how it acts. If you have good oil pressure and no warning lights, you will most likely be fine.
 

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You haven't heated a bike up until you've been stuck in Sturgis traffic when it's hot out there. Oil pressure drops to zero and the bike is too hot to sit on. I love the smell of burning clutches in the afternoon...:)

I can't believe your bike was damaged by heat. I'm not saying that your electrical problems aren't heat related, but I really doubt you damaged the motor.
 

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after the first time it goes into its overheat mode hit the kill switch if only for one minute while in traffic and every time you stop. this works for me ,it stays alot cooler and heat managment system stops kicking in
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, everything is looking a-ok over here. I wasn't scared of hurting the engine, I just thought I might have fried a voltage regulator or something. No big deal. Bike seems fine, and I'm going to take it for a longer ride than 3 blocks soon to make sure I'm good.

I think I just freaked out for no reason. Thanks for the kill switch thing, btw; sounds like a good idea. Or option two, move the hell out of this city (soon!) :eek:
 

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How hot does the engine have to get before the heat management system shuts off the rear cylinder? I was stuck in stop and go tonight on the way home from work in 85 degree heat for an hour and a half and don't think the hms ever kicked in. I do have it set according to the owners manual. I shut the bike down a couple of times, maybe for no more than 30 seconds each time. My legs were frying but I never noticed the bike to act any different while sitting still.
 

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Book says it cuts in when 285 engine at idle 0 on the speedo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Two words.... Oil cooler. Doesn't really help in stop and go traffic on a pre EITMS bike, but it might prevent you from getting in that danger zine. Synthetic will also help, as it has less viscosity breakdown (and therefore less friction) at high temps.


Mylo
 

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How hot does the engine have to get before the heat management system shuts off the rear cylinder? I was stuck in stop and go tonight on the way home from work in 85 degree heat for an hour and a half and don't think the hms ever kicked in. I do have it set according to the owners manual. I shut the bike down a couple of times, maybe for no more than 30 seconds each time. My legs were frying but I never noticed the bike to act any different while sitting still.
My EITMS kicks in between 285-290 degrees fahrenheit. Your EITMS may be turned off and that is why it is not kicking in. I am not sure about the 2010 models but I can turn the EITMS on or off anytime I want to on my 08 model.
 

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My EITMS kicks in between 285-290 degrees fahrenheit. Your EITMS may be turned off and that is why it is not kicking in. I am not sure about the 2010 models but I can turn the EITMS on or off anytime I want to on my 08 model.
Thanks Ironmark. I ended up checking the manual about the temp and then checking to see if I still had the EITMS on. It was on. It's hard to believe that it never reached 285 degrees. It was a long and hot 13 miles in 1.5 hours.
 

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Like others have said change the oil, and if it were me I'd change the primary also. That oil was cooking in there. That primary will get HOT !!!

I've never gotten stuck in traffic for long on the bike because I wont sit there. I split lanes and do whatever it takes because these bikes are air-cooled.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Issues

Yeah, the oil's coming out. The check engine light comes on for about 5 seconds when I start the bike, then goes out. That's an indication of a stored trouble code, right? Can't get a service appointment to check it because of Sturgis and everyone being last minute with their fuckin' trailer queens...:mad::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
...and nervous nellies...;)

A STORED trouble code doesn't necessarily mean something is wrong now. If it's running ok, ride it.
Well yeah, I plan to. The only reason I wanted it cleared is because I leave on a 10 day trip on August 6th or so. If I wasn't leaving for a month I wouldn't be so concerned. :cool:
 

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My EITMS kicks in between 285-290 degrees fahrenheit. Your EITMS may be turned off and that is why it is not kicking in. I am not sure about the 2010 models but I can turn the EITMS on or off anytime I want to on my 08 model.
I have same bike (well kinda there is no two the same ) How do you turn it off abd why would you ? Just curious
I am heading out to look at my service manual right now
 
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