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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I will finally have all my parts here! CVO style saddlebags, Hogtunes lids (already on bike), Chopped tourpak.

I am at a crossroads as to paint it all myself (I'm pretty confident I could do it. I understand the process for the most part, have access to the equipment except a paint booth, and have done much prep and rattlecan'ing in the past.)

What I lack is experience with factors such as.... reducer mixing, spray gun set-up (tip type, pressure, air purification, etc.)

So I either need a lead on a competent painter in Virginia Beach...

Or some big cahonies to press on and just do it!

I have pretty much decided on Color Rite for the Denim Black paint and will use a gun instead of rattle can. I got a pretty damn good paint job with a rattle can (with JDBB) on my fairing lowers but the Hogtunes lids were a different story. I KNOW it was the heat and humidity and my distance from the lid while spraying. The paint was drying before it hit the lid.... And I have some streaking or uneven 'stripping'. Hard to see but I know they are there.... Figured I'd fix when all the other parts were in... Nows the time!

I guess what I am asking, then, is opinions and tips/tricks....
On one hand, if I screw it up...prep and re-shoot. only downside is cost, but thats also the upside if I get it right the first time.
On the other hand.... Have someone locally take care of it and be done with it!

*** EDIT - Oh yea... How much paint do you think I will need? A pint seems too little and a Quart about right. I will be painting saddle bags, lids, tour pack

At the far side of this I am just going to have pinstripes laid down to match the OEM stripping. Will toy with flat-red flaming, screaming skulls and naked painted ladies another day ;-/

Thanks for all comments....topic links... etc!
 

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Go for it. If you have to repaint you will have learned a bunch from first try. I would suggest you only try a couple of parts before going for the larger parts to learn. Your paint store should give you mixing and thinning choices. HVLP will give less overspray than regular cup gun. Good luck. :D
 

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Instead of Colorite why don't you use the proper PPG base coat for denim black that's listed above then use the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit, that is what I use on denim projects and it works perfectly!

The SEM kit has clear, activator and reducer that is mixed in a simple 4:1:1 ratio and sprays real nice, the base coat color gets reduced about 75% with PPG 870 reducer.

The big issue with denim finishes is keeping everything dust free while you shoot as you can't polish out dust or a bug, you will have to 800 wetsand and reshoot your clear over again



Your local PPG jobber will have these products for you

You also will need epoxy primer and it's activator if you want your job to last and to stick to those plastic parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Go for it. If you have to repaint you will have learned a bunch from first try. I would suggest you only try a couple of parts before going for the larger parts to learn. Your paint store should give you mixing and thinning choices. HVLP will give less overspray than regular cup gun. Good luck. :D
Thanks man... I think I am gonna do it and follow RoadHawg's recommendations. I have a HVLP gun...but never used it. Here goes nuthin!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Instead of Colorite why don't you use the proper PPG base coat for denim black that's listed above then use the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit, that is what I use on denim projects and it works perfectly!

The SEM kit has clear, activator and reducer that is mixed in a simple 4:1:1 ratio and sprays real nice, the base coat color gets reduced about 75% with PPG 870 reducer.

The big issue with denim finishes is keeping everything dust free while you shoot as you can't polish out dust or a bug, you will have to 800 wetsand and reshoot your clear over again



Your local PPG jobber will have these products for you

You also will need epoxy primer and it's activator if you want your job to last and to stick to those plastic parts.
Don't have any experience with PPG. So this turns out like the HD Denim Black after the process you describe?

Don't see a paint code for PPG Denim Black (I know thats probably not what they call it) here in this thread but found this one over at 1130cc.com... LG 913102

Also found the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit on Amazon but will go over to House Of Color here tomorrow and see whats up.

I plan on using a HVLP gun and just making one of the bays in the garage into a paint booth with old sheets. I'll clean out the place real good and even place sheets pulled over the garage opener for a ceiling. Hopefully this will keep the dirt down. Also wet the floor prior to spraying. Only real possible problem is using the bullet kero heater I have to warm garage before I spray. It blows some pretty wicked heat but thats just it...blows which might mean kicking up crap in the air. We'll see how cold it is wham I get to that step.
Didn't have a problem with the lowers....turned out real nice in my makeshift paint booth with JDBB rattlecans.

The tourpak is pre-painted gloss black but the maker did not polish it up after painting so I will just sand with 400/800 wet/dry and check for straightness then shoot the flat base over that. Don't think I will need to prime. But the saddle bags are raw so will I need adhesion promoter prior to the epoxy primer? Or just shoot epoxy primer, sand, and base coat....

My compressor is a big unit from Sears more for tearing cars or bikes down and putting together again but I can lower the output to a recommended pressure and I have a water filter on it at the outlet...This runs through 50 feet of hose to the end. I figure I should put an additional filter and a water trap at the end of the hose right before a short hose to the gun. Does this sound like a good plan?

I'm probably going to go with your recommendation. It just feels right.
 

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I will double check on the denim black number when I get back to the shop but that sounds like it.
I do a bunch of insurance paint work for our local HD dealer and the PPG color and SEM clear are a perfect match on the new bikes I do.

800 wet is all you need to use on the tour pac and if you don't go thru the old finish into bare plastic you can get by with out epoxy primer provided they used a half decent paint product so it won't blow up and wrinkle on you.

Sanding and or grinding on that bare abs material leaves a big mess of grinding and sanding marks that will take a few heavy coats of Evercoat polyester filler primer followed by filler till you get the imperfections smoothed out then more polyester primer blocked out to 400/600 then PPG DP90LF epoxy primer before your base/clear. Plastic adhesion promoter goes on before the first paint product is sprayed of course.

Your compressor set up sounds just fine, cool dry air at the gun is what you want no matter how you go about getting it.

You will really like the PPG products, they make painting much easier than other brands by using just one reducer for pretty much their entire line....always grab the tech sheet though and follow it for each product.

PPG products cost a bit (lot) more, but you get what you pay for in the long run, and PPG is also the OEM supplier to HD

1qt of black is more than enough since it gets reduced out about 75% a pint won't quite be enough though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I will double check on the denim black number when I get back to the shop but that sounds like it.
I do a bunch of insurance paint work for our local HD dealer and the PPG color and SEM clear are a perfect match on the new bikes I do.

800 wet is all you need to use on the tour pac and if you don't go thru the old finish into bare plastic you can get by with out epoxy primer provided they used a half decent paint product so it won't blow up and wrinkle on you.

Sanding and or grinding on that bare abs material leaves a big mess of grinding and sanding marks that will take a few heavy coats of Evercoat polyester filler primer followed by filler till you get the imperfections smoothed out then more polyester primer blocked out to 400/600 then PPG DP90LF epoxy primer before your base/clear. Plastic adhesion promoter goes on before the first paint product is sprayed of course.

Your compressor set up sounds just fine, cool dry air at the gun is what you want no matter how you go about getting it.

You will really like the PPG products, they make painting much easier than other brands by using just one reducer for pretty much their entire line....always grab the tech sheet though and follow it for each product.

PPG products cost a bit (lot) more, but you get what you pay for in the long run, and PPG is also the OEM supplier to HD

1qt of black is more than enough since it gets reduced out about 75% a pint won't quite be enough though.
RoadHawg,

Stupid question but are those bikes you painted on the FB page? At least the shop? NICE! Especially the red stripped Road Glide!

OK.... you sold me and I went to my local PPG store after work today and got the paint(s).

got the base (yes, that is the paint code), even the label says Harley Davidson Denim Black. They recommended Bulldog adhesion promoter. Also recommended DT870 reducer for the base and at a 1:1 ratio mix (I asked about this as you mentioned a different reducer # and he asked me when I was going to spray and in what temperature and said I would be fine as temps here are now getting colder). JP202 high build epoxy primer and JH301 undercoat hardener.

So I will get 'educated' with the primer as to how the gun acts...(hopefully!)

He also told me to use a 1.7 tip for the primer and a 1.3 for the base.

What does all this sound like to you? The mix for the base is a little different than your recommendation

Don't plan on sanding the ABS bags as reports indicate you can just prime, sand, then base and they turn out excellent but thanks for the tip.

I'm also surprised that the tech sheet says ~ 10 psi at the air cap for an HVLP gun. I just thought it would be higher. BTW - What does 'at the air cap" mean? At the tip? or at the regulator attached to the base of the gun? That would make more sense... <<< I figured this out... I don't have the gun yet but looking at them shows the spec for 'x' pressure at the regulator delivers 'x' pressure at the tip....

Thanks for all your help. I can't wait to get started....! I know, I know...work slow and don't rush the paint......:)

PS - How do you/others like the mirror pod? I saw that and immediately looked it up to check it out. Don't know if I want to put a hole in my fairing to mount it though... Still sweet looking!
 

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What brand bags did you get? some are much better than others and don't need as much body work, wipe down with alcohol then use your adhesion promoter before any sealer/primer.

Yep DT870 reducer is what I use, 885 is for in the heat of summer. Use a cheap lacquer thinner or acetone for cleaning your gun, don't waste your reducer doing that.

All the bikes on my FB page and main website are done only by me...I'm the only one here ;)

I know the tech sheet says 1:1 for reducing the base color but I only do about 75% so it covers a bit better.

As far as adjusting the airflow on the gun, I have been doing this for so long that I just go by the sound of it anymore.

shoot a test piece and if you have a nice even spray pattern you should be good to go.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
 

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Great thread!!! I have absolutely no paint experience so I cant help their (RoadHawg has you covered anyway! Great work!)

Only thing I may be able to help with is the dust/debris in garage. I have an air purifier for my garage I just recently bought at Home Depot. Takes out the smallest particles in the air, so small that it will take odors out as well. Paid $40 or so and it works great. Could really help if you let it run 24hrs or more in the garage before you shoot and just put it by your area you lay out to paint, just face it blowing away.


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Discussion Starter #11
Great thread!!! I have absolutely no paint experience so I cant help their (RoadHawg has you covered anyway! Great work!)

Only thing I may be able to help with is the dust/debris in garage. I have an air purifier for my garage I just recently bought at Home Depot. Takes out the smallest particles in the air, so small that it will take odors out as well. Paid $40 or so and it works great. Could really help if you let it run 24hrs or more in the garage before you shoot and just put it by your area you lay out to paint, just face it blowing away.


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That's an excellent idea! I have a roll of 6mil plastic I am using for interior walls in the house as we are adding a master bath on (you staple it to the studs after the insulation is in the wall, then wallboard overtop). I am going to 'wrap' one of the garage bays to make my paint booth, use my kerosene heater to get the garage to a comfortable temp and then do my thing. A air purifier should work at this point then after all is said and done I'll put it in my computer room. I'll check those out. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
What brand bags did you get? some are much better than others and don't need as much body work, wipe down with alcohol then use your adhesion promoter before any sealer/primer.

Yep DT870 reducer is what I use, 885 is for in the heat of summer. Use a cheap lacquer thinner or acetone for cleaning your gun, don't waste your reducer doing that.

All the bikes on my FB page and main website are done only by me...I'm the only one here ;)

I know the tech sheet says 1:1 for reducing the base color but I only do about 75% so it covers a bit better.

As far as adjusting the airflow on the gun, I have been doing this for so long that I just go by the sound of it anymore.

shoot a test piece and if you have a nice even spray pattern you should be good to go.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
You have been more than kind helping out!

I'm pretty sure these are the bags. They are from V-twin. http://www.easternperformance.com/custom-stretched-abs-extended-saddlebags-for-harley-touring.html
Bought them over the summer when I saw CVO style bags on special in a thread here I think. I really like the CVO style as opposed to ones the cover the whole exhaust. My plan is to have them pinstripped to match the OEM strips for this season. Maybe a wrap around the tail end skull mural later. Toying with the idea of the OEM pinstripes flowing onto the bag in front and turning into smoking fire skulls screaming out at a 45* angle mid-bag to back. Been messin in Photoshop but nothin that hits me yet. This pic inspired the idea. His is from a shop near Denver

As far as the gun and air system and spraying... I am a jack(a*#) of all trades. Love to learn new things. I poured over every google post I could find for how to paint cars/bikes and will continue to do so until I feel ready. No hurry now at this time of year. I'm having cataract surgery next week and work says I can't go in until the flight surgeon gives me the green light sooooo.... Blind in one eye and deaf in both ears (been fakin it) I'll be ready to stink up the house by the following weekend! I do have a shed I can fit a car in.... Might move the booth there and with the air purifier idea I should be good. And keep the wife happy. Hmmmmm...
 

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The last set of eastern performance bags I did were pretty nice and looked great even in super glossy vivid black!
It's the trashy fairing factory parts that are barely acceptable

I run 30ft of air hose from the compressor room to the paint room and have a quality separator/regulator on the wall where I hookup my 20ft hose I use to shoot with, I've never had a single issue with water in the line yet doing it this way, I have one of the larger Sears compressors that runs on 110 power, I always have more than enough air pressure to paint bike parts and run air tools.

Converting your shed to a paint booth sounds like a good deal, you really want to keep that nasty paint out of the house!
 

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Fltrxpilot thanks for the inspiration to try this on my own. Is there anyway you can PM me or shoot me an email with what your painting supplies are. Like gun, hose, compressor etc. I would be much appreciated. I have a front fender I want to try. Going to try on a old beat up one first.

Roadhawg you our beyond helpful on this forum and if you make it to SW in Maine several beers will be bought for you I'm sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fltrxpilot thanks for the inspiration to try this on my own. Is there anyway you can PM me or shoot me an email with what your painting supplies are. Like gun, hose, compressor etc. I would be much appreciated. I have a front fender I want to try. Going to try on a old beat up one first.

Roadhawg you our beyond helpful on this forum and if you make it to SW in Maine several beers will be bought for you I'm sure.
I'll answer right here so everyone can see.... Sure would like to make the Maine event! But Daytona's calling this trip....

Right now I just have the paint supplies. Gun(s) maybe tomorrow and will report. I just took a pic of the paint supplies. The 'Hot Rod' clear I got off eBay and it's in the mail. Check RoadHawgs first reply for the complete name and pic.
This sux doing it on a phone....!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The compressor I purchased years ago to work on the car (see pics)... I have 50 feet of hose and I think I will get an inline filter to stick close to the gun since I am just painting a few parts. Can't see the ~200$ price for a good one.

Gotta check my compressor to see if it will work as I read about the guns I am understanding more...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And the compressor.. Will keep you posted at what else I find out

RoadHawg.... I see I don't have reduced on my list for the primer. Should I get that too??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
LaxinHarley -

PM post... informational...

Don't know if you read the posts I put up about my next 'odyssey' into painting (my previous one was with an audio setup). I answered you in my posts to give everyone a chance to laugh...er...follow along!

I will add this disclaimer here.... I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PM/POST ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AS NEW INFORMATION BECOMES AVAILABLE!!! - Phew...I feel better already...:confused:

Anyway the more I learn the more I see that there are some important issues that need to be addressed in the air delivery area. HVLP guns have different requirements for CFM (air flow) from the compressor.... water/oil in the line is a no no... as well as dirt/dust.

So I would recommend educating yourself before you tackle the fender or any other auto/cycle project and deciding where your comfort level is. I will certainly post back in my thread as to my experience. I hate reading a thread that has no resolution in the end!

i.e.- what gun is right for what job you are doing. I painted a fender for my sons jeep in the OEM color using my compressor in the pic in the thread using a basic cup gun that came with the compressor. Probably a throwaway item to get a sale when I bought it at Sears. I had no idea what I was doing and went along blissfully setting the gun as recommended and spraying from an air hose attached through a water trap (at the compressor) 50 feet of air hose out to the shed. I DID wait for a mild day and did the proper prep work form bare metal to metal prep to primer to base(prep is VERY important!). The fender turned out awesome and never pealed, blistered or rusted through.....right up to the day we had to junk the Jeep! I got pretty lucky!
Now I begin to learn about the HVLP guns and see that CFM is more important than the honking big tank my compressor has and the air pressure it is capable of! It seems that a consistent pressure delivery at a given pressure keeps the gun from running out or low on pressure which will cause spurts/sputters/inconsistent paint drop size/etc. If while spraying the compressor runs continuously or starts and stops a lot then it is not keeping up with air demand. Now I'm not painting a whole car and continuous spray is not high on my priority list but I will need (and you will too) a setup that will allow me to spray, say, the whole side of a saddlebag without having to wait for the compressor to re-build the pressure I need! So finding the balance of cost vs job vs how often I will actually DO this sort of thing vs quality level desired ...vs...vs will be the deciding factor in my choice. AFTER I choose the gun(s) I will see if I need a new compressor with better CFM numbers as mine will put out 8.5 CFM at 40psi. Is this enough? I will find out when I choose a gun.... Or I will choose a gun that can operate with this CFM in mind.

ie 2 - Getting cool dry air to the gun! Youtube has videos on this as well as Google links to auto/bike painting tips and setups. I was going to just buy a throwaway desiccant filter to place next to the gun since I only have a couple things to paint. But these things are very visible on the bike, not just some rear fender covers or semi hidden part. So the best possible finish for me and my checkbook (AND wifey) are important.
I think I will buy some black pipe and run it either in the garage or the shed and have a mid priced separator/filter at the end of the pipe, then a short hose to the gun. The pipe allows the air to cool on its way to the gun. Then filtration at the plug-in station will help with dirty,wet air. That does not seem to be too big an expense except for the filter. Look online...many levels of filtration! Many ideas on running your airlines. Again, you have to decide what right for you. What level of 'professional' are you willing to buy!

ie 3 - Painting area... I am sold on the idea of using my shed and wrapping the bay with the roll of 6mil plastic I already have. Making sure I clean the floor and ceiling well (it IS a shed!) and then running an air purifier and kerosene heater in there before spraying. With my sons fender I just put up dirty tarps I had and went at it!

I think this is about it for now.... I'm beginning to see why pros charge what they do! But I already knew that from my years of tool purchases to work on the Rod!

In the end you can run with a basic setup like I describe at the beginning of the post. Just make sure you follow good prep and then blast away! The only real investment, provided you already have compressor and gun, is your time and the paint product (including prep materials - yellow painters tape for masking if needed, wet/dry 400, 800, 1000 sandpaper - metal prep for bare metal, primer [rattlecan or spray], base [here is where your real $$ is spent! and clear coat) If you screw it up you can always wait until all is dry, re-sand then recoat! Thats my mentality.... It may tale you longer than you had hoped but learning is half the fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well... After all that I am hedging toward this gun set for at least the primer...

http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

The reviews on the Harbour Freight site seem positive....Even the PPG paint guy recommended this 'reasonably' priced set. But the CFM requirements are a bit higher than my compressor....12 cfm @ 43 PSI (Lrg); 9 cfm @ 43 PSI (Sm) My compressor will do 8.3 cfm at 40 PSI

I just can't get past the feeling I should get a better gun for the base.... And this set has a 1.4 tip instead of the recommended 1.3

RoadHawg.....is .1 difference really that important here??

And I can always fall back on my base statement....If it don't work, fix it!
 
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