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Has anybody had any issue after removing the pin for pushing forward the bars? I am going to do it but I would love to know your opinion about.
 

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Just put new bars on mine, I need to pull mine back a bit, so I used a punch and tapped the pin flush with the clamp, no problems tightening the bars down so they don’t move.


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Just put new bars on mine, I need to pull mine back a bit, so I used a punch and tapped the pin flush with the clamp, no problems tightening the bars down so they don’t move.


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Exactly that. Tap it flush. Takes a second.
 

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Tapped mine out. Stared at it on the bench. Keep it? Throw it out? I put it back in the hole and tapped it flush. If I ever need it (which I probably won’t), I’ll know where to find it. Word is, it serves no other purpose than for assembly, and only present on Road Glides.

Tap it in flush, get your bars where you want them, snug the clamp screws, slowly turn handlebars full right then full left to check windshield/gas tank clearance, tighten clamp screws down to 16-20 ft lbs. No problems.
 

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Pulled mine out w pliers and trashed.
 

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Has anyone ever taken out the pin and then rolled the bar rearward to get the grips closer to the rider? I’d like my stocks to be an inch or two closer to me and not sure if this would accomplish that or if it will require a different bar?
 

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Has anyone ever taken out the pin and then rolled the bar rearward to get the grips closer to the rider? I’d like my stocks to be an inch or two closer to me and not sure if this would accomplish that or if it will require a different bar?
You don’t need different bars. Yours can be dropped an inch or two closer. You’re literally one ignition horseshoe removal, two gauge cluster screws, 3 gauge plug removals (to get the gauge cluster out of the way) and two upper clamp screws away from tapping it down or pulling it out. You’ll need someone to hold the bars for you.
 

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You don’t need different bars. Yours can be dropped an inch or two closer. You’re literally one ignition horseshoe removal, two gauge cluster screws, 3 gauge plug removals (to get the gauge cluster out of the way) and two upper clamp screws away from tapping it down or pulling it out. You’ll need someone to hold the bars for you.
Does the ignition switch need removal for this job?
 

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Does the ignition switch need removal for this job?


What @bucketlisthd said. By removing the horseshoe, you’ll get the clearance you need to pull the guage cluster away. Once the horseshoe is out, turn your ignition switch from the “off” to the “start” position so it’s at about a 15-20 degree angle and you can wiggle the cluster up and away. I highly advise against removing ignition. In fact it takes more time to do that than removing horseshoe, turning ignition switch and pulling cluster away, and way much longer if you’re not versed in aligning tumblers in the off chance you turn the bars the wrong way while the ignition is out. Your call though.


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I finally got around to taking this on. Very easy to get the cluster off without removing the ignition switch. Thank you for that great tip. As I was loosening the clamp bolts, the bar started to roll down a bit. Apparently there is enough play in the hole that the pin fits in, there is some movement available, and son of a gun if there was enough that it rolled down just the right amount for me, so I didn’t have to remove the pin. Went for a ride after, and the improvement of the control for me is outstanding. If I was 6’2”, I’m sure I would want to roll that bar forward, but at 5’7”, not much rearward makes a huge difference.
 

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When I got mine 2 weeks ago, I knew I needed to do something with the bars. I went to roll them forward, then ended up rolling them back a little. You aren't alone.
 
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