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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just want to start a discussion on tuning. I don't know if I doing good or bad, but I seem to be getting pretty good results.

2011 FLTRU Harley standard stage 1 on filter, V&H Pro Pipe 2 into 1, RedShift 525 cams, adj push rods, fueling tappets.

I have had the PV for several years and have tried many different scenarios for turning. Here is my latest and makes sense to me but wonder what others think.

I got Megalogviewer to be able to view the datalogs.

I started with a base tune from Dynojet and as always they are not a perfect match, but a good starting place. At first I did a standard autotune run to get the VE's a bit closer. After that I just record datalogs from my runs. I then take the logs and open in megalogviewer. I have been tuning my ve tables strickly by the O2 readings in the log. With the logviewer I can see where I am rich and lean. With the Narrowband it a high/low signal. So my thought is they need to to be switching pretty steady and not a flat line at one or the other. High is rich and low is lean. With this viewer for example you may see at 2500 rpm and 45 - 52 map it is a constant high signal. So this tells me I need to adjust the VE in this area and bring it down. Also look at surrounding cells as a big difference in values and cause this as well.

Result: I have not had a dyno run I have been comparing the old fashion way by how well I run against my riding buddies. I have seen my temps decrease and my mileage increase. Just about across the board I had one cylinder at one state and the other at the opposite. Now things are coming together and I think I'm seeing positive results.

My question is as I'm not an expert. Does this logic make sense.

Appreciate any input as I am still a learning DIYer.
 

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Not an expert, but have used it for 2 years. I spent money for the Pro to have the wide band sensors. Basic uses Stoiche (14.6) Pro uses 13.1AFR no matter what your tables are at. Each cell is influenced by the previous cell so if it is way off the next cell tries to compensate for it. Motor Temp is a good gauge that is not to lean and standard is under 250 is good. My built motor (Diablo II with 106.9 ported heads runs 210 to 230. Auto tune seams to work best the more you can hit the cells. When it is close the program can do what you are describing without all the work. Check the VE tables and export to your PV. Load on Bike. Set your signals basic or Pro (if you have option) Run your log and ride (at least 30 min. If you hit more cells throughout the table it will calculate most accurate for your cam. Get log from PV and save to PC. Then load values of that file and save as a different name. You can now compare the 2. I only use the VE tables. It does AFR at 13. or 14.6 but calculates for the AFR of the tune. Your seat of the pants Dyno (your buddys) is not that accurate. But Temps do say a lot as at 14.6 will easily hit 280.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info, I agree not the best dyno. Lol. Probably will run it when I am satisfied with my graphs. Yes great temps so for, but cool temps outside right now. I'm 195 to 205 right now. Probably 225 to 230 in summer

Cecil
 
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