Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I installed my new PV from Fuel Moto and loaded the custom map they made for me into my bike. I took her out today and auto tuned the map a total of 3 times, each time improving on the last tune. The bike runs great! However, she seems to be hotter than I remember. Now, I was running her a bit harder than I usually do just to get through all the gears and rpm's for the auto tune. Anyways, after getting back in my driveway, the PV showed the engine temp at 320f. Is that normal temp? I ride a 2013 Road Glide Custom. I added CFR's and everything else is stock. Thanks.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
EFI tuning and Exhaust Expert
Joined
·
815 Posts
If you are moving slowly or sitting stationary in hot temperatures engine temp is going to continue to rise and it can easily go above 320F. To determine specific running engine temp you need to monitor and log this over the entire run session. Normal running temps would be 240-320 and this will vary greatly based on relative temperature.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I took my bike out again today for a short ride to check the temps again. I did a 40 mile ride. Cruising at 60 she ran at 275 and in traffic for about 15 mins she got up to 293. I'm happy with that. Thanks for the input Y'all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
I think we're all fans of getting great mileage, and the closed loop tunes are great for that. but... around here I absolutely can NOT stand riding the bike in city traffic. After a few stop lights I'm knockin on 300 degrees and the engine goes into 1 lung mode, Hate that! Running open loop now and I'm quite happy. I was getting crappy mileage (35-36) commuting with my closed loop tune before and it's only slightly worse now. Last tank was 36mpg. If I'm on the road and cruising I'm getting 45+mpg.

long story short, I think you're still running too hot for this time of year. You still have the cat headpipe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I think we're all fans of getting great mileage, and the closed loop tunes are great for that. but... around here I absolutely can NOT stand riding the bike in city traffic. After a few stop lights I'm knockin on 300 degrees and the engine goes into 1 lung mode, Hate that! Running open loop now and I'm quite happy. I was getting crappy mileage (35-36) commuting with my closed loop tune before and it's only slightly worse now. Last tank was 36mpg. If I'm on the road and cruising I'm getting 45+mpg.

long story short, I think you're still running too hot for this time of year. You still have the cat headpipe?

This is all a learning experience for me. I have just noticed tonight on my way home I was getting 40mpg on my bike and that was cruising at 70 most of the way home. I would think I should be getting better than that. How would I go from open loop to closed loop? Would that help out in with the mpg along with keeping the bike a little cooler in temp?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
This is all a learning experience for me. I have just noticed tonight on my way home I was getting 40mpg on my bike and that was cruising at 70 most of the way home. I would think I should be getting better than that. How would I go from open loop to closed loop? Would that help out in with the mpg along with keeping the bike a little cooler in temp?
I would guess your Fuel table has you running closed loop unless you went in and changed the values to something outside of the closed loop range.

If you've got the latest version of WinPV on your computer you can look at the Air Fuel Ratio table for the map you're using. If the values have circles around bold values, you're in closed loop. Closed loop will yield best fuel economy but will also cause the engine to run hotter, mosts noticable at idle and low speeds. Nature of the beast. Switching to an Open loop map requires VE tables that are very well established. Ideally you would want the map and actual AFR built by a talented tuner on a dyno.

That said, 40 mpg @ steady state 70mph doesn't sound out of line. Especially if you're running 10% ethanol fuel. Also, you should calculate the MPG in traditional manner to really know what your average is. The value the PV displays is calculated and that value can be tweaked if the actual MPG is not the same as what the PV displays. Use the Trip Meter function in the PV to determine this. Zero out Trip A or B when you fill up and reset your odo, run a tank or two with the PV connected and compare the MPG displayed in the PV Trip to what the math says when you fill up. Adjust the values in the PV trip to match and this will alter the MPG factor.

The PowerVision will keep you chasing the learning curve... lots and lots of interesting functions if you care to learn them. Or not, your choice, It's nice that you can just flash a map, do a little quick autotuning then put it in a box and forget about it. It's definitely the beauty of the product, very flexible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
What about enrichening via "quick tune" and "fuel" on the PV?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Go to your ve tables and up them 10% globally, also take it out of closed loop, I'd set it at 13.8-14.0 except in the high load/map areas, and see if it don't cool down a bit.

Your bike is running too hot as stated above.

I run Powervision on my bike with a dyno tune by strokerjlk, a member here,
typically in 80-90 degree weather I see temps on the highway between 245-255, they will climb a little higher in traffic but no where near 320*.


IMO, if a dyno tune is out of the question, a guy needs the AT-110 with wide band O2 sensors so that the entire map can be tuned.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Go to your ve tables and up them 10% globally, also take it out of closed loop, I'd set it at 13.8-14.0 except in the high load/map areas, and see if it don't cool down a bit.

Your bike is running too hot as stated above.

I run Powervision on my bike with a dyno tune by strokerjlk, a member here,
typically in 80-90 degree weather I see temps on the highway between 245-255, they will climb a little higher in traffic but no where near 320*.


IMO, if a dyno tune is out of the question, a guy needs the AT-110 with wide band O2 sensors so that the entire map can be tuned.....
Please pardon my questions but I'm new to all of this tuning with the Power Vision. I'm also reading all I can find on the net and really appreciate the input from you all.

So, to up the ve tables globally by 10% and also to take it out of closed loop and set it for 13.8 to 14, would I do this on my computer with the Power Vision connect to the computer or can I do this right on the bike with the power vision?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Please pardon my questions but I'm new to all of this tuning with the Power Vision. I'm also reading all I can find on the net and really appreciate the input from you all.

So, to up the ve tables globally by 10% and also to take it out of closed loop and set it for 13.8 to 14, would I do this on my computer with the Power Vision connect to the computer or can I do this right on the bike with the power vision?
Both. You can do it with quicktune or in WinPV. Best part is you can roll it back when something doesn't work like you want...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok, in QuickTune I see where to change the VE and also where to take it out of Closed Loop, but where do I find in Quick Tune where to change to 13.8 in the maps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Please pardon my questions but I'm new to all of this tuning with the Power Vision. I'm also reading all I can find on the net and really appreciate the input from you all.

So, to up the ve tables globally by 10% and also to take it out of closed loop and set it for 13.8 to 14, would I do this on my computer with the Power Vision connect to the computer or can I do this right on the bike with the power vision?
You can do it either way as stated, but I would use the pc and connect pv to it, I can see and work with it a lot better.

IMO Quick tune is to make temporary on the fly changes to adjust for a tank of bad gas, ect. I would use the software and make the adjustments in the VE and afr tables of the map itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
You can do it either way as stated, but I would use the pc and connect pv to it, I can see and work with it a lot better.

IMO Quick tune is to make temporary on the fly changes to adjust for a tank of bad gas, ect. I would use the software and make the adjustments in the VE and afr tables of the map itself.
I agree, however using quick tune would also be a good way to do some relatively controlled experiments. Plus if you find a particular change that works you can Save Copy of Current Tune and capture the changes into a "final" tune.

The Help contents in WinPV (Configure Quick Tune) has a nice chart of what can be changed with the predefined areas in QT.

Back to the topic about going open loop. Bear, I would recommend you try making the changes in Idle area first because that's where you're most likely to encounter the highest temps. Making changes across the board in one shot may not be appropriate for all conditions. Running too rich will cause carbon build up and waste fuel without any real benefit. More power isn't as simple as adding more fuel. In fact more times than not power is degraded by too rich a mixture.

Anyway, that's my .02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
I agree, however using quick tune would also be a good way to do some relatively controlled experiments. Plus if you find a particular change that works you can Save Copy of Current Tune and capture the changes into a "final" tune.

The Help contents in WinPV (Configure Quick Tune) has a nice chart of what can be changed with the predefined areas in QT.

Back to the topic about going open loop. Bear, I would recommend you try making the changes in Idle area first because that's where you're most likely to encounter the highest temps. Making changes across the board in one shot may not be appropriate for all conditions. Running too rich will cause carbon build up and waste fuel without any real benefit. More power isn't as simple as adding more fuel. In fact more times than not power is degraded by too rich a mixture.

Anyway, that's my .02
It's obvious that his bike is too lean all over the place with the temps he is reporting, personally I think the chance of getting a real good tune relying on the stock sensors is slim at best.

It's gonna take some trial and error to get it without the benefit of a experienced dyno tech, and I would much rather start a little fat and back into it than be too lean and damage engine parts with extreme heat while trying to dial it in. JMO.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
It's obvious that his bike is too lean all over the place with the temps he is reporting, personally I think the chance of getting a real good tune relying on the stock sensors is slim at best.

It's gonna take some trial and error to get it without the benefit of a experienced dyno tech, and I would much rather start a little fat and back into it than be too lean and damage engine parts with extreme heat while trying to dial it in. JMO.:)
Oh I get it. Trust me. I was just suggesting a method to go about this methodically. That's all.

Maybe I don't understand the Delphi well enough, but it seems to me if the VE tables aren't refined and settled down, just changing the AFR to a 13.8:1 per cell doesn't actually translate to that if you put a sniffer in the pipe. The areas of the VE tables with High values will be richer than 13.8 and cells with low values will be leaner. I may be completely off base! I'm willing to accept that. :eek:
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top