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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone try the springs only for a slightly firmer ride?Was the calculator on their website accurate?It tells me to use the 1.2kg springs but I would like to know what stock is.
 

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I've got the 1.0 kg Race Tech springs along with Ricor Intiminator valves in mine. At 215 lbs. the calculator says I should have 1.2 kg springs, but the 1.0 kg feel right for me. As for the stock springs, my 2012 had multi rate springs. Soft section collapses to easily and stiff section was too stiff. YMMV.
 

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I would suggest that you call them. I haven't used them for years, but they were very helpful at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've got the 1.0 kg Race Tech springs along with Ricor Intiminator valves in mine. At 215 lbs. the calculator says I should have 1.2 kg springs, but the 1.0 kg feel right for me. As for the stock springs, my 2012 had multi rate springs. Soft section collapses to easily and stiff section was too stiff. YMMV.
How much of a difference just rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake on?And when you sat on the bike did the springs settle much ?Im 275 and the calculation was 1.2 kg springs.But a put intermediate rider,adventure riding and standard stiffness. I might go with a 1.1 spring.I’ll call today and see how big of a difference 1.1 is compared to 1.2 is.
 

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How much of a difference just rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake on?And when you sat on the bike did the springs settle much ?Im 275 and the calculation was 1.2 kg springs.But a put intermediate rider,adventure riding and standard stiffness. I might go with a 1.1 spring.I’ll call today and see how big of a difference 1.1 is compared to 1.2 is.
It got rid of the annoying brake dive the stock is known for. Race Tech springs are shorter than stock and require a spacer. The length of the spacer is how you set the sag, which should be at 1/3 total travel. Not a hard job to do but may need to adjust spacer length to your riding preference. Like was mentioned above, call them. Very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tried calling and couldn’t get through.I’ll try tomorrow.So when you cut the spacers to length.Are they easy to get to if you have to cut a little more off. I’m hoping it’s not a put together completely and then take it apart to cut and then and reassemble.Hopefully the spacers are just under the caps and easy to pull out if you have to cut the spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've got the 1.0 kg Race Tech springs along with Ricor Intiminator valves in mine. At 215 lbs. the calculator says I should have 1.2 kg springs, but the 1.0 kg feel right for me. As for the stock springs, my 2012 had multi rate springs. Soft section collapses to easily and stiff section was too stiff. YMMV.

I hear the straight rate springs are the way to go.
 

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I tried calling and couldn’t get through.I’ll try tomorrow.So when you cut the spacers to length.Are they easy to get to if you have to cut a little more off. I’m hoping it’s not a put together completely and then take it apart to cut and then and reassemble.Hopefully the spacers are just under the caps and easy to pull out if you have to cut the spacer.
You will have to remove the forks from the bike to adjust the length of the spacers if necessary. The cap is not accessible as it is slid up in the upper tree. A service manual for your year bike is a priceless tool to have on hand for jobs like this. Torque specs and a clear picture of how to get the job done. Also, get the tool to set the oil level correctly. Kind of a syringe, with a measuring tube on it, to pull off excess oil to the right level. Got mine at Cycle Gear cheap. May sound intimidating to tackle this but all this is explained in detail in the service manual. For me it was worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You will have to remove the forks from the bike to adjust the length of the spacers if necessary. The cap is not accessible as it is slid up in the upper tree. A service manual for your year bike is a priceless tool to have on hand for jobs like this. Torque specs and a clear picture of how to get the job done. Also, get the tool to set the oil level correctly. Kind of a syringe, with a measuring tube on it, to pull off excess oil to the right level. Got mine at Cycle Gear cheap. May sound intimidating to tackle this but all this is explained in detail in the service manual. For me it was worth the effort.

So I got through today and asked all the questions.Tech recommendation was the 1.2kg springs with 30wt fork oil.To set the sag I’m to have a space of 30mm between the top of the spring and the where the bottom of the cap would stop as if were threaded in.That will be my spacer thickness size.Jack bike up So forks are fully extended.Sounds Fairly simply for my next winter project or for the next rainy day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just found preload fork caps to fine tune the preload and eliminating the spacer all together.?
 

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Checked Eastern and Kirk and didn't see any that fit road glides. Not familiar with how the newer forks are designed, but mine don't have an open upper clamp to accommodate an adjustable cap. But maybe I'm missing something here.
 

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Anyone try the springs only for a slightly firmer ride?Was the calculator on their website accurate?It tells me to use the 1.2kg springs but I would like to know what stock is.
If the current springs are fine for your loaded weight, why not try thicker oil first?

I've only changed springs on bikes because they were shot or they were not appropriate for my weight or I was going for more adjustability by going with gold valve emulators or cartidges.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Checked Eastern and Kirk and didn't see any that fit road glides. Not familiar with how the newer forks are designed, but mine don't have an open upper clamp to accommodate an adjustable cap. But maybe I'm missing something here.
I emailed speed merchant this morning and I’ll see what they say. I can see my cap but it looks like it might be a chore to adjust if I had to.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I called speed merchant and asked a few questions.He said that all Harley 49mm fork have the same thread.The only disadvantage would be we wouldn’t have access to the adjusting nut on top of the cap.It was recommended that you make all your adjustments before you put on the cover that has the switch blanks back on. I know on another forum I was offered the race tech kit with gold emulators for $250 shipped but didn’t want to mess with the emulators.
 
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